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Old 01-24-2018, 05:21 PM   #15
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I guess I need to get a turnbuckle for when I start reworking everything.

What size did y'all get?
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Old 01-24-2018, 05:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reubenray View Post
I guess I need to get a turnbuckle for when I start reworking everything.

What size did y'all get?
I actually set up my phone to record the pedal working in my Jeep while taking a test run with the ready brake.

The Jeep weighs 3850 LBS

its a 4 min video but here are the points that show the brake pedal depressing

:58 seconds
1:30
2:55
3:25


Here is the link to the thread I started


http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/ready...on-293343.html









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Old 01-24-2018, 07:20 PM   #17
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Quick and easy determination of how much slack you need with a Ready Brute tow bar. With BOTH bars at full extension, not locked travel position but fully extended, connected to the tow vehicle and the tow directly behind the coach you should have just enough slack in the cable to connect WITHOUT pulling against the brake pedal cable. A quick check is to see if the tow brake lights are on. If not you're good to go.

Testing a Ready Brake set up is pretty easy and you don't need someone in the tow while driving around the block to do it.

Step 1. Connect your tow vehicle up as you normally would but ensure the coach is positioned so you can drive it away without backing. Both arms need to be locked travel position and the tow directly behind the coach. Everything just the same as if you are moving down the road. Ensure you have enough room in front of the coach to pull straight forward a few feet before moving to step 2.

Step 2. Get in the tow and start the engine. Step on the brake and put it in gear. Slowly let off the brake but keep you foot resting on the pedal. Now give the engine a bit of gas. Maybe 1000 to 1500 RPM. You should feel the brake pedal drop away from your foot all the way to the full brake movement limit. If everything is working as it should the brake should have no movement remaining. If you have a bit of brake remaining give the throttle another hit to maybe 1750 or so RPM. You'll be working against the slip of the torque converter in a non-lock up state, the spring action of the tow bar and cable slack so don't worry about hurting the drive train or the tow bar.

Step 3. Back to the driver's seat in the coach. Inch her forward about a foot or so to release the tow brakes. You only need to move forward the same amount the tow bar moves forward, maybe six inches. The bar brake level should in it's resting position, the cable should be slack and the tow brake pedal should be fully released and up against the resting stop.

Test results - If there's any pedal movement after doing set 2 then you have too much slack in the cable. If the brake did not fully release in step 3 then you have binding in the tow side of the set up.

Give my test a try and post what happened.
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Old 01-24-2018, 09:02 PM   #18
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As long as the ends of the cable sheath are secure, routing of the cable won't change the length of the cable. The cable is no different than a bicycle or motorcycle brake cable. ST
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Old 01-25-2018, 05:14 PM   #19
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I think folks way over think the cable adjustment. As long as the cable is pulled when you drive the toad toward the motorhome while hitched then all is fine provided the brake is released when the toad is reversed against the motorhome. That's really all there is to it. It's not a precise adjustment. It's like hand grenades, close is good enough,.
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Old 01-26-2018, 07:26 AM   #20
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Quote:
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I think folks way over think the cable adjustment. As long as the cable is pulled when you drive the toad toward the motorhome while hitched then all is fine provided the brake is released when the toad is reversed against the motorhome. That's really all there is to it. It's not a precise adjustment. It's like hand grenades, close is good enough,.
Maybe "precise" is the wrong word to use. But I know that cable stretches over time and adjustments need to be made. I found I had to adjust the cable every 3-4 trips. It is a royal PITA with the clamps. I'm hoping the turnbuckle will make it a bit easier.
The other thing to consider is power brakes on the toad. When adjusting, I always first pump the pedal a few times to release residual pressure in the brake system. If you set it up without doing this I think you find your cable adjustment will be out of whack fairly quickly.
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Old 01-26-2018, 07:32 AM   #21
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I guess I need to get a turnbuckle for when I start reworking everything.

What size did y'all get?
This is the one I bought. I will need to find some smaller thimbles, as the ones that came with the cable will be too wide for this turnbuckle.
But since I basically have to cut and shorten the cable anyway it should not be a problem.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B075XY...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 01-26-2018, 08:27 AM   #22
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We installed our Ready Brake 3 years ago and have never had to adjust the cable except when we made some changes.
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Old 01-27-2018, 12:10 AM   #23
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Brake function check: Hook up vehicle to Motorhome in a safe place - Parking lot or ?. Have wife drive motorhome and apply brakes while you ride in toad, to confirm cable is pulling correctly. Communicate between vehicles via phone
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Old 01-27-2018, 06:41 AM   #24
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Once I get over this crud/flu I will start redoing my cables. I have the instructions bookmarked. The key thing is to find a spot to secure the end of the cable at the front of the car. This is the weak point of the entire cable installation.
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:20 PM   #25
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Those of us who are fortunate enough to have the inclination, basic skills and physical ability to do our own work have an advantage. I've read so many reports of problems with commercial installers, I'm glad that I can do much of my own work. So is my wallet.

My ReadyBrake and baseplate are on order and, when they arrive, I'll be installing them myself and am seriously considering the turnbuckle, especially since my long range plan is to equip two toads.
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:42 AM   #26
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ReadyBrake has their own turnbuckle now.

Turnbuckle
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:49 AM   #27
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You can buy one at Home Depot for a lot less..........
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:17 AM   #28
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You can buy one at Home Depot for a lot less..........
Which I plan on doing? I was surprised to see them at NSA.
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