Any experiences good or bad with Ready Brake

[jrs]

When I do my Grand Cherokee next year, I'm going to use the idea on a youtube post when connecting the cable to the brake pedal. Take the rubber pad off the brake pedal plate. Then will drill 2 holes directly though the brake pedal plate. These holes will be located directly to each side of the brake pedal arm. Will loop the cables through and clamp behind the plate. Thinking this is more secure and cleaner looking vs using the supplied plates. Will likely make a relief cut part way through the back side of the rubber brake pad so it fits tight against the plate.

[RKins]

My '08 has a different brake pedal arm - it's vertical, not sweeping left like the one in the video. I haven't decided if I want to use the bracket provided or go with the solution Fireup did that connects to a rod drilled through the pedal arm.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/ready...re-301435.html
I will re-look at that info this week and make a decision. I am not sure he had the breakaway cable in his install.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by RKins

My '08 has a different brake pedal arm - it's vertical, not sweeping left like the one in the video. I haven't decided if I want to use the bracket provided or go with the solution Fireup did that connects to a rod drilled through the pedal arm.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/ready...re-301435.html
I will re-look at that info this week and make a decision. I am not sure he had the breakaway cable in his install.

Use caution when drilling a hole in the brake pedal arm. You wouldn't want to be driving around in the toad, stomp the brake in an emergency and have the arm bend or brake. Probably ruin your day.

[RKins]

Yup, I definitely thought about that too. And I think I would need two holes, since I don't think you'd want the pull of the breakaway cable that far out on a stud if you doubled the cables up.
Probably best to figure out a way without drilling so you can still remove the cable when not towing. I'll have to put the left side of my brain to work on that.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by RKins

Probably best to figure out a way without drilling so you can still remove the cable when not towing.

I can't imagine why you would need to remove the cable when not towing. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone doing that.

[RKins]

Go to the link I posted in #44 and you'll see why they did that. The actual article starts on post 13.
It makes sense to do that to save the cable.

[baraff]

Today I installed a turnbuckle to get rid of the lame cable system NSA uses for the braking system. It works really well.

[RKins]

Looks like the same turnbuckle I bought. I'll build the new cable this weekend.

[avfordguy]

I have run the ns ready brake for years, all i did was wire in a small vacumm pump to the brake booster (no abs), so that when ready brake exhausted the vacumm pump would recharge the booster, vacumm pump is from a 04-08 ford diesel, cheap

[RFWRVMAN]

This is all good information. I appreciate all the comments. I don't think I have read one bad thing on the ready brake system. The only problem I have seen is that the area where the tow bar pushes on the link that pulls the cable needs to be greased occasionally or it may stick and not slide effectively to pull the cable. Easy fix!

I haven't heard anyone using it on a 2014 Silverado. I can't see why it wouldn't work. Maybe I am looking for suggestions that the install is easy.

Thanks for any information in advance and Safe Travels!

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by RKins

Go to the link I posted in #44 and you'll see why they did that. The actual article starts on post 13.
It makes sense to do that to save the cable.

I did go read the posts you point out but still see no reason to disconnect the cable from the brake pedal when not towing. I've only heard of one person (you) who does that and I guess I'm just missing the point. I've never had any kind of cable wear issue on my 2017 Wrangler so I just don't understand the problem that's being solved.

Also, a lot of people way over think the cable adjustment. It's not something that takes any kind of "fine tuning". It's just not near as critical as folks seem to think. As long as it's within the 3-4" of travel provided by the brake activating arm on the Ready Brute then the toad brakes will work just fine.

[Tjclarke696]

Originally Posted by RFWRVMAN

This is all good information. I appreciate all the comments. I don't think I have read one bad thing on the ready brake system. The only problem I have seen is that the area where the tow bar pushes on the link that pulls the cable needs to be greased occasionally or it may stick and not slide effectively to pull the cable. Easy fix!



I haven't heard anyone using it on a 2014 Silverado. I can't see why it wouldn't work. Maybe I am looking for suggestions that the install is easy.



Thanks for any information in advance and Safe Travels!

UPS just delivered mine today. I’ll be installing it on my 2011 Silverado later this week. I’ll let you know how it goes.

[RKins]

Originally Posted by hohenwald48

I did go read the posts you point out but still see no reason to disconnect the cable from the brake pedal when not towing. I've only heard of one person (you) who does that and I guess I'm just missing the point. I've never had any kind of cable wear issue on my 2017 Wrangler so I just don't understand the problem that's being solved.

Also, a lot of people way over think the cable adjustment. It's not something that takes any kind of "fine tuning". It's just not near as critical as folks seem to think. As long as it's within the 3-4" of travel provided by the brake activating arm on the Ready Brute then the toad brakes will work just fine.

And I haven't even done it yet.
Also see post #20.

[jrs]

Originally Posted by baraff

Today I installed a turnbuckle to get rid of the lame cable system NSA uses for the braking system. It works really well.

Burns like the turnbuckle idea and your setup. What size and length of turnbuckle did you use?
Thanks in advance