Any experiences good or bad with Ready Brake

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by RKins

And I haven't even done it yet.
Also see post #20.

Looked at #20 also. Still don't get the point of disconnecting the cable from the brake pedal when not towing. Guess I'm just thick headed.

[Solask]

Originally Posted by hohenwald48

Looked at #20 also. Still don't get the point of disconnecting the cable from the brake pedal when not towing. Guess I'm just thick headed.

Generally, no need to disconnect it. However, I do disconnect mine in the cold winter months.. I had no problems leaving it connected for several years until one day in zero degree temps, my cable froze in the “out” position. This kept the brake pedal engaged and my brakes overheated on the highway.. Managed to get off the side of the road and disconnect it. No damage done.

[RFWRVMAN]

Originally Posted by Tjclarke696

UPS just delivered mine today. I’ll be installing it on my 2011 Silverado later this week. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Great. I hope it works out. I'm really leaning towards using this system.

[Tjclarke696]

Originally Posted by baraff

Today I installed a turnbuckle to get rid of the lame cable system NSA uses for the braking system. It works really well.

Curious what was there before the turnbuckle? Just received my Hercules tow bar with ready brake. Looking through the parts it appears it now comes with a turnbuckle. They also now use cable clamps instead of the compression clamps on the cable ends.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by LucasOil

Generally, no need to disconnect it. However, I do disconnect mine in the cold winter months.. I had no problems leaving it connected for several years until one day in zero degree temps, my cable froze in the “out” position. This kept the brake pedal engaged and my brakes overheated on the highway.. Managed to get off the side of the road and disconnect it. No damage done.

Now I can see how that could happen. I have a dash light in the coach connected to the toad brake light switch to warn of something like that.

[Solask]

Originally Posted by hohenwald48

Now I can see how that could happen. I have a dash light in the coach connected to the toad brake light switch to warn of something like that.

No no, I wasn’t even towing it at the time.
Also, the dash indicator will go out when the actuator on the ReadyBrake returns to the home position. The cable could still be frozen within the sheath holding the brake pedal down.

[Vato]

Originally Posted by hohenwald48

Looked at #20 also. Still don't get the point of disconnecting the cable from the brake pedal when not towing. Guess I'm just thick headed.

The reason for disconnecting the cable from the brake pedal is when you're driving the toad (not towing) every time you apply the brakes the cable moves in and out of the conduit.

The cable rubs the metal entry tube of the conduit (where it pokes through the firewall) and eventually can fray causing the cable to break.

Happened to me.

Not only will I disconnect the cable, I have inserted a small nylon tube into the end of the conduit to insulate the cable from rubbing on the metal entry of the conduit tube. (see pic)

I only had about 15k miles on the truck before the cable frayed and broke.

Shouldn't have that issue again.

The turn buckle allows you to fine tune the cable slack. Much easier and cleaner than using get the cable clamps provided by RB.

Hope that explanation softens your head. lol

[Solask]

Originally Posted by Vato

The reason for disconnecting the cable from the brake pedal is when you're driving the toad (not towing) every time you apply the brakes the cable moves in and out of the conduit.



The cable rubs the metal entry tube of the conduit (where it pokes through the firewall) and eventually can fray causing the cable to break.



Happened to me.



Not only will I disconnect the cable, I have inserted a small nylon tube into the end of the conduit to insulate the cable from rubbing on the metal entry of the conduit tube. (see pic)



I only had about 15k miles on the truck before the cable frayed and broke.



Shouldn't have that issue again.



The turn buckle allows you to fine tune the cable slack. Much easier and cleaner than using get the cable clamps provided by RB.



Hope that explanation softens your head. lol

That cable is pretty hard stuff. It must be entering the conduit at an angle to even think of fraying.

[F4Gary]

NSA sells a turnbuckle kit.

Turnbuckle

Also, they really stand behind their product.
I bought my ReadyBrute Elite used and after a year of use it seemed to be kinda loose in all the joints. So I took it up to the factory during the eclipse and they replaced all the old allen head bolts with new regular grade 8 bolts and checked and grease the whole tow bar.
I thought they would charge me something for the parts as I'm not the original purchaser. They didn't charge me anything! Free overhaul.
Great product.

[RKins]

Originally Posted by F4Gary

NSA sells a turnbuckle kit.

Turnbuckle

They're listening to the customer base at least.

[RKins]

Originally Posted by Tjclarke696

Curious what was there before the turnbuckle? Just received my Hercules tow bar with ready brake. Looking through the parts it appears it now comes with a turnbuckle. They also now use cable clamps instead of the compression clamps on the cable ends.

They provided a cable with 4 clamps and a couple thimbles. Was really a pain to get it right.
This is what I and others ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[rlott2k]

Interesting system, I noticed on their web page an animation of how it works. I see the lever is on an extension that seems to slide forward when brakes are applied which activates the lever. Do you feel anything when you release brakes and toad slides back? I’m thinking there would be a clunk as this sleeve reaches its travel limits.

[Solask]

Originally Posted by rlott2k

Interesting system, I noticed on their web page an animation of how it works. I see the lever is on an extension that seems to slide forward when brakes are applied which activates the lever. Do you feel anything when you release brakes and toad slides back? I’m thinking there would be a clunk as this sleeve reaches its travel limits.

I have never heard a clunk from that part of the system. I believe the system works well. I have been descending 6% grades where I stab the brake to maintain my target speed. I can see the dash indicator light up which means my toad brake is activated. When I let off the MH brake, the indicator light goes out, indicating the spring is strong enough to push the toad back and disengage its brake.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by LucasOil

No no, I wasn’t even towing it at the time.
Also, the dash indicator will go out when the actuator on the ReadyBrake returns to the home position. The cable could still be frozen within the sheath holding the brake pedal down.

My dash light is connected to the toad brake light switch not the actuating arm of the Ready Brake. My light only comes on when the toad brake pedal is depressed and is not related to the ReadyBrake actuating arm.

If you weren't towing how did the cable get pulled so as to stick in the activated position? When I press my toad brake pedal the cable thimble sticking out of the front bumper does not move. The movement of the toad brake pedal just causes slack in the cable inside of the toad without moving the thimble. I guess different installations may operate differently. I'll keep an eye out for it if I ever find myself driving the toad in below freezing temps. I do my best to avoid that anyway.