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Old 08-11-2022, 12:41 PM   #1
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CarTowDolly, EZE-Tow Dolly Part Numbers

I have an older black-framed version that I rebuilt as an early COVID-19 project. I regreased but didn't disassemble the hubs, and I'm more then 50% through the brake pads now, so I plan to service the hubs while I'm changing the pads.

The folks at CarTowDolly.com haven't been forthcoming with information, and to be fair, they sell the parts themselves. Their prices are steep for other items, and the bearing kits look high too. I'm wondering if anybody has the part numbers or specifications for the bearings and rear caps for these. I found some posts about people changing these, but no part numbers or specs yet.

It might be worthwhile to assemble a list of part numbers for the whole unit: hubs, calipers, pads, bearings, caps, brake actuator, etc. If anyone has any of this please let me know.

Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2022, 06:26 PM   #2
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I can't say what the part numbers are, but about all bearings and races have the part numbers on them. You should be able to cross that to a timken (if it isn't already) and get the sets. As to the caps, I'm not sure. Are they damaged? Could they just be reused? Seems like I remember that they have an o-ring in there that might be needed to source as well. I want to say that the lube assembly is a dexter assembly, so you can likely get the parts from them. I'll have to look at my caps, but I did a google search on the name a while back and came up with a source, just can't remember what it was right now. PRetty sure it's all made by dexter though.
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Old 08-11-2022, 07:09 PM   #3
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Here's a list i put together from various sources. This is for a newer galvanized model but I suspect the parts are the same.

Trailer
Trailer Tires; Carlisle Radial Trail RH Trailer Tire - ST145/12 LRE
Load range E, 1520 lbs,10 ply

2-Pack ST145/R12 Discount Tire best price $68/ec Amazon $155/pr
ST145R12 LRE 10PLY Walmart $57.00


Seal 65 x 42 x 13 or 2.56x1.69x.51 Acme says 2.560 x 1.680 x .50 Timken 473336 2.565" OD, 1.719" Shaft, 0.500 Amazon Timkin

National Oil Seal 473336
Amazon National

Dexter Axle 168255TB 2.561 OD, 1.687 ID etrailer 13.25 ec
Inner bearing - L68149 Bearing Kit L68149 L44649
Amazon $26.00
outer bearing - L44649

Brake pads Auto Zone DG766 CarTowDolly $59.00
The brake pads can be purchased locally from any auto parts store. They are from a 97-00 Kia Sephia (Front pads). Just be sure to purchase the non-metallic organic material as the metallic ones will depreciate your rotors.


Wheel Studs. Dex# 007 312 00 1/2 Stud, 561 Knurl, 1 3/4 STD, 1/2x20 Thread



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Old 08-12-2022, 07:13 AM   #4
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Thanks!

Thanks Wingrider19 and Scepter40! I'll disassemble this weekend and record the the part numbers for the black frame version. I suspect they are the same, but good to verify if they are labeled.

Some notes I have from my 1st axle service:
They use the 1.98 Vault caps which use this O-ring:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MXRHS...roduct_details

And the vault lubricant:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MXR5P...roduct_details
Dexter Part #K71-030-00 for the bearing service kit. (didn't buy this)

I also ran across this post on etrailer about replacing the hubs and rotors with kodiak brand -- two vault hubs and calipers exceed the cost of the dolly. https://www.etrailer.com/question-515290.html
I need to compare the specs of those parts with what Wingrider19 posted. I don't need this kind of replacement yet, but good to know if an alternative is available.
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Old 08-15-2022, 03:14 PM   #5
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Disassembly complete (one side anyway)

I confirmed Wingrider19's part numbers for the black framed dolly.



Inner bearing is L68149
Outer bearing is L44649


I'm going with his part number for the seal too, I'm confident that's correct
National Oil Seal 473336.
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Old 08-27-2022, 11:47 AM   #6
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How to repair/replace bearings and brakes

I found the problem with my brakes. The issue seems to be that the caliper casting contacts the inner pad. The issue existed with the pads that came on my dolly (not sure whether they were original or not) and with both sets I've applied. I considered grinding it down, but it would need to lose about 1/8 of an inch to clear. I tried another set of pads from a third manufacturer, but the fit is consistent. For now I sanded the casting smooth there, and applied a touch of brake grease. I'll keep an eye on it.

For those considering this job, here are some notes:

Disassembly:
Remove wheel.
Remove vault bearing cap -- just spin the hub and smack it with a rubber mallet until it comes off. The lip is about 1/4 inch deep so it takes roughly a minute of spinning and smacking.
Remove brake caliper. It's connected with a hard line, and if you can support it underneath or hang it out of the way, you can move it enough to get the the hub off. I did not need to disconnect the line.
To remove the brake caliper, you'll need to remove the clip on the outside pad, then remove two bolts that connect it to the frame. The lower one was tough for me to access -- a thin walled 9/16 socket works. I got in there with a 3/8 drive breaker bar which was enough to break them both loose, then backed them out with a 1/4 drive 9/16 ratchet.
Remove cotter pin
Remove castle type bearing nut retainer.
Remove bearing nut
Slide hub off.
The outer bearing will fall out as you do this. The inner bearing is held captive by the grease seal.
Remove the grease seal -- there may be a better way, but I just mangle them up with a flat chisel/punch and pull them out.
Clean up the hub -- I needed to sand the rotor and clean out where the seal seats.
There is an o-ring in the outer part of the hub that seals the vault bearing cap. Mine looked fine, but I replaced them anyway. Keep an eye on these if you're reusing them.
I did not remove the bearing cups from my hubs because they seemed fine and fit the new roller bearings perfectly.

Parts:
Here is what I used:
2x O-rings for the vault caps: UFP O-Ring for UFP Vault Hub/Rotor 1.980 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MXRHS...roduct_details
1/4"-28 taper thread grease fitting (for filling hub): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0059HK8...roduct_details
2x Timkin 473336 Seal: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001544U...roduct_details
2x Timkin L44649/L44610 Tapered Roller Bearing Set: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000X3EP...roduct_details
2x Timkin L68149/L68111 Tapered Roller Bearing Set: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000IX99...roduct_details
Dynamic Friction 5000 series ceramic brake pads 1551-0925-00: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PG327...roduct_details
Permatex 81160 High-Temp RTV: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00QTMVM...roduct_details
UFP Vault System Hybrid Lubricant (14 oz): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MXR5P...roduct_details
PVC 2" to 1.5" adapter.

Re-assembly:
Starting with everything wiped, scraped, and sanded clean.
Wipe some UFP hybrid oil/grease on the axle.
Work UFP hybrid oil/grease into the bearings.
(Note: the timkin bearing sets specified in the parts list are made in the USA -- nice, originals were chinese)
Set inner bearing into hub.
Clean hub again where the inner seal will seat, we want no oil here.
Coat outer edge of bearing seal with red RTV, seat it fully (bearing seat kit makes this easy, but you can do it a variety of ways -- youtube if you're new at this).
Clean any red RTV that leaked outside the seal, keep it off the rubber part specifically.
Slide the hub onto the axle.
Install inner bearing (should already be packed with grease from earlier).
Install washer.
Install bearing nut. Finger tight. Hub should spin easily now and have no movement in/out.
Install new UFP O-Ring in the outer hub O-ring groove, or verify that the original is still there.
Install castle type bearing nut retainer and cotter pin.
Screw grease fitting into end of axle.
Let it sit for a few hours so your RTV can cure. (or go work the other side)
Reset your brake piston (push back with C-clamp). It's a good idea to remove the brake fluid cap and put a pan under it in case it overflows.
Clean up brake pad contact points with sand paper and brake cleaner.
Lubricate pins and brake pad contact points with rubber-safe brake grease.
Assemble brake caliper with new pads. Wait on the wire clip.
Hang the caliper by the upper bolt. Now install the wire clip. It's kind of finicky-- reference the other side to see how it goes.
Install the lower caliper bolt. Then finish installing the upper caliper bolt. Tighten german spec (guuudentite).
Install UFB hybrid oil/grease into axle with grease gun. Stop when you see grease start to come out around the axle washer. Fill Vault Bearing cap with fresh grease.
Install the Vault Bearing Cap using 2" to 1.5" PVC adapter, block, and mallet. If you're not sure what this, look at the vault cap installation kits. You can get this at most hardware stores with a PVC selection.
Re-install wheel (75 ft-lbs on those lugs).

Enjoy a beer and then finish the other side.
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Old 08-27-2022, 09:39 PM   #7
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Great info and follow up! My only suggestion would be to check your bearings after some miles. The races and bearing wear together, so now you have a worn part with a new part. I’ve always changed them together as a set, so I can’t speak to whether it’ll cause a problem. A laser thermometer should work good for letting you know if they heat up.
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