Chevrolet Spark Toad

[cracker39]

Originally Posted by jfran304

I can't remember which one told me about the notch between off and ACC but it was either the Chevy dealer or the RV Service center that installed the Invisibrake, Blue Ox base plate and Blue Ox tow bar. We have towed it from GA to Texas, Florida, Mt Rushmore and Las Vegas, NV and it has never slipped. The only time we had a problem was when the wife turned the key too far. So all I can say is that it works for us.

Another thing we do is when we start the Spark before we unhook it from the coach to make sure it will start. If it doesn't start we will tow start it with the wife in the Spark since it has a manual transmission.

Jon

Good idea about tow-starting the Spark - but I'll bet these little toy cars would also respond to a quick push by hand if you were on hard level pavement. That's always been a great feature of manual trannys! It used to be a normal procedure with my Model A during high school days in the '50's - as well as with other friend's clunkers. You would often get a friendly push-start after school only to give a buddy's car a bumper-to-bumper start before you left the parking lot. I'll bet few kids today know that we had "real" bumpers back then! We could even push-start automatic trannys - but you had to do it bumper-to-bumper in order to get up to about 20-25 mph before you dropped the automatic transmission in gear. I digress and reminisce!

[jfran304]

Originally Posted by cracker39

Good idea about tow-starting the Spark - but I'll bet these little toy cars would also respond to a quick push by hand if you were on hard level pavement. That's always been a great feature of manual trannys! It used to be a normal procedure with my Model A during high school days in the '50's - as well as with other friend's clunkers. You would often get a friendly push-start after school only to give a buddy's car a bumper-to-bumper start before you left the parking lot. I'll bet few kids today know that we had "real" bumpers back then! We could even push-start automatic trannys - but you had to do it bumper-to-bumper in order to get up to about 20-25 mph before you dropped the automatic transmission in gear. I digress and reminisce!

Good memories. Another was parking with the front facing downhill so you could roll start with a manual transmission. As far as pushing by hand I would probably wind up pushing up daisies if I tried to push one too far at my age and my condition.

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by cracker39

Reviewing all of the Spark manuals on line, the consensus is (---if we are to believe the manuals) that all Spark ignitions have 4 key positions and a locking steering wheel. With respect to the 12 volt auxiliary outlet, the 2014 manual is mute (i.e. - no info as to operation - or even that it exists) and the 2015 manual says that it is always active, even with the key off. It further advises against leaving anything plugged in, to avoid running the battery down. I can personally confirm that on the 2014, the 12 volt outlet is dead until the key is turned to the accessory position (#2.) The net of all of this seems to be that Sparks have distinct personalities unknown to Chevrolet. I pity the poor soul that has a Spark with all of the available bells and whistles!

2015 manual link............

https://my.gm.com/content/dam/gmowne...rk1stPrint.pdf

pages 198 thru 200 detail key positions.

Charles

[drvoce]

I have a new Spark that I tow. I have discovered over time that, when using the RVibrake system, I don't even have to use the key in the ignition or turn the car accessories on using the key (by turning the key to the click before start in the steering column).
I put the gear shift in neutral (it is a manual transmission) and the brake pedal will depress, stop the car, and the rear lights come on, all without the key in the ignition. Therefore there is no need for a battery charge during trips! And the car does not block the tail lights on the RV because it is so small the turn signals on the RV are plainly visible from behind.
Also, THE WHEELS DO NOT LOCK when there is no key in the ignition. the front wheels can make a full turn right or left without locking.

[drvoce]

I made an entry about how I tow my 2016 Spark. It should answer all of your questions about it, at least the 2016 Spark.

[kohraptor]

Thanks you ChasL, It works fine as you've said. I was towing my 2017 spark today just for a test for about 20 miles and there is no squealing noise.

[Justjack2k]

I’m not keen on four wheel towing. The cost of a quality base plate and tow bar is not much less than a dolly. I got a mastertow dolly with surge brake for 1600. The base plate and tow bar would have been 1200 plus brakes.
With the dolly you can tow anything that fits on the dolly. With the base plate it’s on that car and that car only and for the spark at least, the front end plastics need to be butchered up.
Im not touching the ignition issue.

[txcpl]

Yesterday, my friend who has a Chevy Spark (about 2 years old), mentioned that he had just received a letter in the mail that told him that the new towing guidelines required him to disconnect the negative battery terminal cable when towing. I have not seen the letter, but would suggest that you thoroughly check this out as the previous instructions did not say anything about disconnecting the negative battery cable. The battery has very limited access, which makes installing a disconnect switch difficult.

Also, as I am writing this post, another question I have is: how does this affect the rear lights and brake lights? I do not know if those systems currently installed use the vehicle battery for power. Something else for my friend to check out.

[Labrat46]

We have a 2107 Spark we purchased last fall for towing this summer. I liked the fact that I did not have to disconnect the battery but that has changed now (after I bought a $55 charge line kit). My letter arrived in mid March and states "the 2017 Spark with the manual transmission may experience electronic stability control (ESC) brake activation under certain conditions while being dingy towed. When towed on a curved road or in a turn ESC brake activation of one wheel may occur resulting in audible tire squeal. So we will now disconnect the Neg. cable when towing. I can't speak to the issue with lights as I added the RM-152-LED kit from Etrailer which is a kit that adds additional lights to the Spark light housing and is independent of the cars system. Easy install and is really much better than cutting into and adding diodes to a system. I suspected the reason I previously had to turn the ignition key to the first stop was related to the electric steering system as the car steering wheel will turn lock to lock with the key out and the car moving. I would like to add a quick disconnect to the Neg, cable but there just isn't room so I added a box under the hood to hold a wrench and a plastic cover for the Neg. post. I'm looking forward to towing the car this summer and as a daily driver for my wife it has been a great car.

[walt2137]

Originally Posted by Justjack2k

I’m not keen on four wheel towing. The cost of a quality base plate and tow bar is not much less than a dolly. I got a mastertow dolly with surge brake for 1600. The base plate and tow bar would have been 1200 plus brakes.
With the dolly you can tow anything that fits on the dolly. With the base plate it’s on that car and that car only and for the spark at least, the front end plastics need to be butchered up.
Im not touching the ignition issue.

Jack there are positive points and negative points to all 3 styles of having a toad including using a trailer, after using a tow dolly for a couple years in the early 90 i chose the 4 down and have never been sorry but i do all my bracket and towlights myself and have never butchered up the front cap of 2 Honda, Satrun, Nissan, 4 Chevys, 2 Fords, Kia and 1 Dodge Ram. I didnt like looking for a place to park the dolly or pushing it around.

[walt2137]

Originally Posted by Labrat46

We have a 2107 Spark we purchased last fall for towing this summer. I liked the fact that I did not have to disconnect the battery but that has changed now (after I bought a $55 charge line kit). My letter arrived in mid March and states "the 2017 Spark with the manual transmission may experience electronic stability control (ESC) brake activation under certain conditions while being dingy towed. When towed on a curved road or in a turn ESC brake activation of one wheel may occur resulting in audible tire squeal. So we will now disconnect the Neg. cable when towing. I can't speak to the issue with lights as I added the RM-152-LED kit from Etrailer which is a kit that adds additional lights to the Spark light housing and is independent of the cars system. Easy install and is really much better than cutting into and adding diodes to a system. I suspected the reason I previously had to turn the ignition key to the first stop was related to the electric steering system as the car steering wheel will turn lock to lock with the key out and the car moving. I would like to add a quick disconnect to the Neg, cable but there just isn't room so I added a box under the hood to hold a wrench and a plastic cover for the Neg. post. I'm looking forward to towing the car this summer and as a daily driver for my wife it has been a great car.

Why not use a old style ford starter relay On the negative cable with a toggle swith under the dash, run the power to operate off of the coach. I towed a 2014 Spark for about a year , the Spark is made by Daewoo in Korea a GM company and all tail light wires are extreamly small and hard to work with. The extra light socket is a good choice.

[kohraptor]

Labrat46 your 2017 is using electrical power from your RV than you don't need to disconnect negative just make sure all radio system turned off. The key is not in so negative battery in or out doesn't make any different. I got this idea from ChasL, he also has the same car.

[Labrat46]

Originally Posted by kohraptor

Labrat46 your 2017 is using electrical power from your RV than you don't need to disconnect negative just make sure all radio system turned off. The key is not in so negative battery in or out doesn't make any different. I got this idea from ChasL, he also has the same car.

I removed the charge line after getting the letter. I figured with nothing needing power now why leave it. I think I still need to take the Neg. cable off per Chevy's directive. I'm open to other ideas?? Thanks.

[Labrat46]

I went back and re-read the Chevy directive and thought I would add this info which confused me even more. I would agree with Kohraptor if the key is off why remove the Neg, battery cable. But, Chevy says "If the battery is disconnected with the ignition on or the vehicle in Retained Accessory Power (RAP) the ON-Star backup battery will be permanently discharged and will need to be replaced. Yikes! So to continue, 1. Make sure the lamps, features, and accessories are turned off. 2. Turn the ignition off and REMOVE the key, if equipped. 3. Loosen the Neg. battery cable nut. 4. Remove the Neg. battery cable from the battery. So, that's weird.

Also since there are a lot of things that are a Ground in the engine compartment covering the battery post is really not as important as covering the end of the Neg. battery cable so it can't touch some of those aforementioned things IMHO. Thanks for anymore input on this.