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SargeW · 04-05-2008, 07:05 AM

It wasn't for lack of effort on Kendal's part (Cool Tech's owner and inventor). When another member discovered a probable issue with his Cool Tech harness being interfered with by the Jeep brake lights, Kendal immediately investigated the issue, and while working at it on his own Jeep at midnight, came up with an easy solution. By pulling the M1 fuse and disabling the Jeeps brake light switch, the Jeep brake lights don't over ride the signal from the motorhome.

In my senario though, that caused another problem. The brake system that I use, a Ready Brake surge brake system uses the signal from the Jeep to activate a dash mounted light in the motorhome to let me know that the pedal in the Jeep is being depressed, and when it releases. I called Cool Tech and spent a couple of hours on the phone with Kendal. He tried several different possibilities using his own Jeep for a test vehicle. Kendal immediately recognized the importance of the warning light on my dash, and spent a significant amount of time with me trying to work it out.

In the end the Jeep electrical system proved to be a real pain in the butt. I had short time frame in which to solve the issue, so I wound up going back to the add a light option in my tail lights. It is important to note here though that I was able to obtain all the necessary parts (two 3 wire bulb sockets, 2 1157 heavy duty bulbs, and a 25' roll of 4 wire flat trailer hookup wire) from my local Pep Boys auto parts for about $20.

The Cool Tech harness is still a great option for most situations, unless you need the brake light signal for some purpose on your braking system. As a side note, I discovered a simple solution for pulling and reinstalling the M1 fuse in your fuse box on the Jeep.

On one of the inside edges of the fuse box Jeep provided a white plastic fuse puller that makes pulling the mini fuses much easier. I discovered that if I hooked the fuse puller to the M1 fuse I could leave it attached to the top of the fuse while the fuse was in use. The top of the fuse box just closes with it in place. When you get ready to tow, just pull the fuse with the white puller and secure somewhere it will be easy for you to reinstall.

Sarge

SargeW · 04-05-2008, 07:05 AM

It wasn't for lack of effort on Kendal's part (Cool Tech's owner and inventor). When another member discovered a probable issue with his Cool Tech harness being interfered with by the Jeep brake lights, Kendal immediately investigated the issue, and while working at it on his own Jeep at midnight, came up with an easy solution. By pulling the M1 fuse and disabling the Jeeps brake light switch, the Jeep brake lights don't over ride the signal from the motorhome.

In my senario though, that caused another problem. The brake system that I use, a Ready Brake surge brake system uses the signal from the Jeep to activate a dash mounted light in the motorhome to let me know that the pedal in the Jeep is being depressed, and when it releases. I called Cool Tech and spent a couple of hours on the phone with Kendal. He tried several different possibilities using his own Jeep for a test vehicle. Kendal immediately recognized the importance of the warning light on my dash, and spent a significant amount of time with me trying to work it out.

In the end the Jeep electrical system proved to be a real pain in the butt. I had short time frame in which to solve the issue, so I wound up going back to the add a light option in my tail lights. It is important to note here though that I was able to obtain all the necessary parts (two 3 wire bulb sockets, 2 1157 heavy duty bulbs, and a 25' roll of 4 wire flat trailer hookup wire) from my local Pep Boys auto parts for about $20.

The Cool Tech harness is still a great option for most situations, unless you need the brake light signal for some purpose on your braking system. As a side note, I discovered a simple solution for pulling and reinstalling the M1 fuse in your fuse box on the Jeep.

On one of the inside edges of the fuse box Jeep provided a white plastic fuse puller that makes pulling the mini fuses much easier. I discovered that if I hooked the fuse puller to the M1 fuse I could leave it attached to the top of the fuse while the fuse was in use. The top of the fuse box just closes with it in place. When you get ready to tow, just pull the fuse with the white puller and secure somewhere it will be easy for you to reinstall.

Sarge

Hillbilly2 · 04-05-2008, 07:35 AM

I'm not familiar with Cooltech, but a double diode system should have eliminated that problem. A diode in the wire from the Jeep brakes and a diode in the harness from MH. The bulb would light from either source, but would not feed back to the respective systems the others voltage. When I get a chance I will investigate this system, should be an easy way to make it work.

Hillbilly2 · 04-05-2008, 07:43 AM

While I was rereading your post I think I remember the post that you were talking about, the brakes would not release after the toad brakes were applied. This can be overcome simply by attaching brake light sense wire before the diode in the MH harness. When I research this harness I will see how they are making the dash indicator work.

offthewall · 04-05-2008, 12:52 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SargeW:
It wasn't for lack of effort on Kendal's part (Cool Tech's owner and inventor). When another member discovered a probable issue with his Cool Tech harness being interfered with by the Jeep brake lights, Kendal immediately investigated the issue, and while working at it on his own Jeep at midnight, came up with an easy solution. By pulling the M1 fuse and disabling the Jeeps brake light switch, the Jeep brake lights don't over ride the signal from the motorhome.

In my senario though, that caused another problem. The brake system that I use, a Ready Brake surge brake system uses the signal from the Jeep to activate a dash mounted light in the motorhome to let me know that the pedal in the Jeep is being depressed, and when it releases. ...
Sarge </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sarge,

Sounds like it's too late and you went with the separate bulb solution but I described a solution to your issue twice in another thread. The Roadmaster relay would have done what you needed. I have a similar "home brewed" relay solution on my Jeep. I use the brake light switch on the Jeep to light an LED in the coach to indicate that the Jeep's brakes have been applied as well. The Cooltech harness is only a wiring harness. It does what it's supposed to do -- connect the Jeep's lights to the MH. The issue of the brake lights swamping out the turn signals is a given for any vehicle using a single filement bulb for brake and turn and why a product such as the Roadmaster relay exists. With your separate bulb setup, you will still have to provide illumination to the license plate light as well. The relay or a simple toggle switch on the brake light wire (after the tap to the Ready Brake coach indicator) would have been a lot simpler than wiring up the separate bulbs.

BillArf · 04-05-2008, 03:21 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by offthewall:
Sarge,

Sounds like it's too late and you went with the separate bulb solution but I described a solution to your issue twice in another thread. The Roadmaster relay would have done what you needed. I have a similar "home brewed" relay solution on my Jeep. I use the brake light switch on the Jeep to light an LED in the coach to indicate that the Jeep's brakes have been applied as well. The Cooltech harness is only a wiring harness. It does what it's supposed to do -- connect the Jeep's lights to the MH. The issue of the brake lights swamping out the turn signals is a given for any vehicle using a single filement bulb for brake and turn and why a product such as the Roadmaster relay exists. With your separate bulb setup, you will still have to provide illumination to the license plate light as well. The relay or a simple toggle switch on the brake light wire (after the tap to the Ready Brake coach indicator) would have been a lot simpler than wiring up the separate bulbs. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Offthewall, I second what you have said in the above quote!

Both Sarge and Rick 2005 Dolphin 5376 missed the boat totally in my point of view. There were answers in another topic area to their problems but both guys just did not catch on I guess you would say. Possibly they should have let more experienced people install/troubleshoot there set-ups.

The Cool Tech harness is only a wiring harness as you stated. A darn good harness! It does exactly what it is supposed to... "connect the Jeep's lights to the MH". Any other issues in regard to setting up a new Wrangler are just that other issues... NOT Cool Tech harness related issues!

.

SargeW · 04-05-2008, 08:30 PM

Actually I didn't miss anything. In my extensive conversations with Kendal he knew EXACTLY what I was talking about! Why use diodes or any such toggle switch when all that is required is another bulb to flash a turn? Adding the spare bulb is pretty simple as well. And as for experienced people, I think that the guy that invented the harness would be pretty experienced!!

And my boat is running just fine! As a matter of fact, guess what system Kendal is using in his older Jeep Wrangler?? Right, an additional bulb in his tail lights!

SargeW · 04-05-2008, 09:07 PM

Hillbilly,

No, my issue didn't have anything to do with the brakes on the toad or MH. It was just an indicator light.

Hillbilly2 · 04-06-2008, 03:42 AM

10-4, I got to thinking about, and the diodes would fix a brake controller problem, but the brake lights still would go solid on the toad during a turn with the brakes applied. The extra bulb is a foolproof way doing it, though unless the brake light fuse is pulled, both bulbs would illuminate when stopping, but I know you are probally already doing that. Just wanted everybody to know the diode route was not a fix all.

offthewall · 04-06-2008, 08:36 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hillbilly2:
10-4, I got to thinking about, and the diodes would fix a brake controller problem, but the brake lights still would go solid on the toad during a turn with the brakes applied. The extra bulb is a foolproof way doing it, though unless the brake light fuse is pulled, both bulbs would illuminate when stopping, but I know you are probally already doing that. Just wanted everybody to know the diode route was not a fix all. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Unfortunately, I think that that may be the situation the original poster is going to wind up having. He has to leave the M1 fuse in to activate his coach indicator. Upon braking and turning, the secondary bulb will blink and the Jeep's stock bulb in the same enclosure will stay on bright. Probably not as bad of a "wash out" as his original situation with just the single filiment Jeep only bulb but not as obvious a visual signal as the stock Jeep where the signal flashes from bright to off.

My final attempt to help

.

The Cooltech harness with either a toggle switch or a relay on the brake light switch, M1 fuse IN, will provide normal operation of the L-R Jeep signals in a turn/brake situation. The ReadyBrake signal to the coach indicator will function. The Jeep's center brake light will not light. In my opinion this is the best setup you can get. It is the simplest to wire. It provides the closest to stock tail light, brake light, signal light appearance you can get. I've got a few ideas on getting the center brake light to function but I'm not sure it's worth the effort. If I ever get really bored on a Sunday afternoon, I may try a few of them out...

SargeW · 04-06-2008, 11:08 AM

Yeah, pretty funny isn't it? The better they make things (like a more efficient electrical system) the harder we have to work to defeat it!

Sarge

Rick 2005 Dolphin 5376 · 04-10-2008, 12:50 PM

Sarge, did you get your ReadyBrute yet?

SargeW · 04-10-2008, 06:01 PM

Not yet Rick. I have been spending money like a drunk sailor! When I installed the Blue Ox tow plate, I installed a winch mounting plate from Rough Country. It was the only one I found that allowed me to still mount the tow plate and didn't interfere with that.

Well I installed the winch today, a Warn SI9500. It mounted up real nice and really complements the front of the new Wrangler.

But now that I have added about 200 pounds to the front of the Jeep (92 pounds for the winch, and about 40 - 50 pounds each for the base plate and winch plate) I am getting a pair of Rancho extended front springs put on tomorrow.

It will not only get back the 7/8 of an inch that I compressed the front springs with all the new goodies, put should also take about an inch of rake out of the overall stance of the stock configuration.

After that I will check my levels when hooked up to the MH and see if the current set up is sufficient, or if the Ready Brute would be be a better fit. I will take a few pics of the before and after and post them up after its done. I figure that this is the last toad for a long time, so I'm going to set it up right.

Sarge

Rick 2005 Dolphin 5376 · 04-11-2008, 06:13 AM

Sounds like you've been busy. Not much going on here. The Jeep is done for the time being. The motor home is still our main living quarters. I'm looking forward to an outing in a few weeks. Keep me updated about the ReadyBrute. You will like that tow bar.