Correct Indicators When Using Stealth Brake Buddy

[portopa]

Hi,

Anyone using the Stealth Brake Buddy system? I don't think mine is working right.

Local RV shop installed my new Stealth Brake Buddy to tow a CR-4.

The Good: When connected to TOAD, the under-dash controller shows Dinghy Mode and a small red light is on at the bottom right. In the car, under the seat, the Main Unit shows a green light. All brake and signal tests good. Pulling the 7-flat end engages the CRV's brakes.

The Bad: Pressing the red Test Button does not engage the TOAD brake (no movement of the pedal), and does not show BB on the display. Actually, I never see BB on the under-dash controller, even when braking hard at 60mph going down a steep hill. What does happen is I see a "90" on the display for a few seconds after I let off the brakes.

So far, the installer keeps saying not to expect the brake to come on very often because it uses an accelerometer to decide when to brake.

How does yours function?

Thanks!

Paul

[buktseat]

This system, when sorted, works pretty well. It's also extremely easy to hook up and go, requiring none of the traditional nonsense associated with braking systems. Their all-in-one connector is excellent, and really works well. That said, it's been a long road (over a month) to get it installed and at a point where it safely stops the towed car.

June 9: I ordered the Brake Buddy Stealth kit for my 2017 GMC Acadia V6.

July 5: I set about installing the kit, and realized that I was missing the harness and umbilical from what appeared to be an open box item. Called Hopkins tech support, and they stepped up and sent replacement parts for what was probably an unscrupulous customer's swindle. Kudos!

July 12: Install attempt round two. This time the install is successful, however, the controller that mounts in the towed vehicle is acting like it's fried. I called tech support and again, Hopkins stepped up and sent a replacement controller.

July 18: Receive controller and install. Appears to have fixed the problem. But now, the brake pedal is only pulling in a quarter of an inch when testing breakaway or trying to actuate it with the test button on the controller. I called tech support again and determined it's a bad main unit. I ordered a whole new kit, figuring I'll get good parts from one kit and send back the bad parts.

July 21: New kit arrived. I replaced the main unit and it changed nothing. Start advanced troubleshooting. Check voltages at the main unit under varying conditions - everything checks out. Detach the cable from the brake pedal and determine that the thing actually does stroke about four inches. Turns out the overload protection in the main unit is functioning as intended because too much effort is required to move the pedal. I test the vacuum pump and it's working as designed.

I then moved the cable attachment point to the very bottom of the brake pedal for leverage. This isn't what was shown in the instructions, but I was able to make it work and it did help - brake now moved about 2 inches. Then I tried testing it with the towed car idling (to provide good vacuum) and found that the pedal would move about 4 inches before the protection overload would stop it. The conclusion - not enough vacuum.

I tested the car's booster line with a vacuum gauge while running, and noted that it was pulling 25 inches of mercury (inhg). Tested the vacuum with the pump doing the work (engine off), and found that it would kick on at 10inhg and shut off at 15inhg. So the reason the system only works when the car is running is because the supplied vacuum pump is inadequate, providing ~10 less inches of vacuum than the car needs for proper booster operation.

Then I did some research on the Dorman vacuum pump in the kit. It's used in Ford trucks to provide accessory vacuum when starting the car for stuff like the AC controls. It's really not intended for something as significant and critical as braking. In any event, I took it apart and found that I had some wiggle room on the thresholds. I adjusted the contacts in the vacuum switch, and got it to the point where it would kick on at 15inhg and run it up to about 20inhg. Reinstalled the pump and took the car for a tow test, and it worked pretty well for well spaced braking events.

However, the vacuum pump ran every time I pressed the brake, and did so for 90-120 seconds. That wasn't going to cut it for multiple braking events within a one to two minute period (think traffic). Also, it sounded like it was working really hard to build 20inhg, and I suspected that it wouldn't be lasting very long. If it were to fail, I wouldn't have towed car braking, and that's no good since I'm taking my wife and four little kids on a cross country trip next month.

So rather than start over, I set about fixing the vacuum deficit at the beginning of August. For around a hundred bucks, I was able to get a Volvo brake booster vacuum pump and a multicomp vacuum switch (search Amazon). I made a mounting plate and used these two pieces with a relay to power the pump directly from the battery (picture attached). The result is that I can maintain vacuum between 19-23 inches, and the system now seems to work great. This vacuum pump is far superior, and only runs for about ten seconds between braking events.

Despite the fact that I'm good to go now, the vacuum pump included with the kit is sub-par and is now sitting in my parts bin. I contacted Hopkins with all of this information, and while they were responsive and helpful throughout this adventure, their engineers' final determination was that the provided vacuum pump should get the job done. That may be true for a Honda Civic, but in practice (and in fact) is was not adequate for my Acadia. In other words, unless you're really technically competent, I'd consider other options.

[swinters]

Originally Posted by buktseat

This system, when sorted, works pretty well. It's also extremely easy to hook up and go, requiring none of the traditional nonsense associated with braking systems. Their all-in-one connector is excellent, and really works well. That said, it's been a long road (over a month) to get it installed and at a point where it safely stops the towed car.

June 9: I ordered the Brake Buddy Stealth kit for my 2017 GMC Acadia V6.

July 5: I set about installing the kit, and realized that I was missing the harness and umbilical from what appeared to be an open box item. Called Hopkins tech support, and they stepped up and sent replacement parts for what was probably an unscrupulous customer's swindle. Kudos!

July 12: Install attempt round two. This time the install is successful, however, the controller that mounts in the towed vehicle is acting like it's fried. I called tech support and again, Hopkins stepped up and sent a replacement controller.

July 18: Receive controller and install. Appears to have fixed the problem. But now, the brake pedal is only pulling in a quarter of an inch when testing breakaway or trying to actuate it with the test button on the controller. I called tech support again and determined it's a bad main unit. I ordered a whole new kit, figuring I'll get good parts from one kit and send back the bad parts.

July 21: New kit arrived. I replaced the main unit and it changed nothing. Start advanced troubleshooting. Check voltages at the main unit under varying conditions - everything checks out. Detach the cable from the brake pedal and determine that the thing actually does stroke about four inches. Turns out the overload protection in the main unit is functioning as intended because too much effort is required to move the pedal. I test the vacuum pump and it's working as designed.

I then moved the cable attachment point to the very bottom of the brake pedal for leverage. This isn't what was shown in the instructions, but I was able to make it work and it did help - brake now moved about 2 inches. Then I tried testing it with the towed car idling (to provide good vacuum) and found that the pedal would move about 4 inches before the protection overload would stop it. The conclusion - not enough vacuum.

I tested the car's booster line with a vacuum gauge while running, and noted that it was pulling 25 inches of mercury (inhg). Tested the vacuum with the pump doing the work (engine off), and found that it would kick on at 10inhg and shut off at 15inhg. So the reason the system only works when the car is running is because the supplied vacuum pump is inadequate, providing ~10 less inches of vacuum than the car needs for proper booster operation.

Then I did some research on the Dorman vacuum pump in the kit. It's used in Ford trucks to provide accessory vacuum when starting the car for stuff like the AC controls. It's really not intended for something as significant and critical as braking. In any event, I took it apart and found that I had some wiggle room on the thresholds. I adjusted the contacts in the vacuum switch, and got it to the point where it would kick on at 15inhg and run it up to about 20inhg. Reinstalled the pump and took the car for a tow test, and it worked pretty well for well spaced braking events.

However, the vacuum pump ran every time I pressed the brake, and did so for 90-120 seconds. That wasn't going to cut it for multiple braking events within a one to two minute period (think traffic). Also, it sounded like it was working really hard to build 20inhg, and I suspected that it wouldn't be lasting very long. If it were to fail, I wouldn't have towed car braking, and that's no good since I'm taking my wife and four little kids on a cross country trip next month.

So rather than start over, I set about fixing the vacuum deficit at the beginning of August. For around a hundred bucks, I was able to get a Volvo brake booster vacuum pump and a multicomp vacuum switch (search Amazon). I made a mounting plate and used these two pieces with a relay to power the pump directly from the battery (picture attached). The result is that I can maintain vacuum between 19-23 inches, and the system now seems to work great. This vacuum pump is far superior, and only runs for about ten seconds between braking events.

Despite the fact that I'm good to go now, the vacuum pump included with the kit is sub-par and is now sitting in my parts bin. I contacted Hopkins with all of this information, and while they were responsive and helpful throughout this adventure, their engineers' final determination was that the provided vacuum pump should get the job done. That may be true for a Honda Civic, but in practice (and in fact) is was not adequate for my Acadia. In other words, unless you're really technically competent, I'd consider other options.

I know this is a bit of an old thread but wanted to add my experience for others who might come across it.

I first tested my brake buddy stealth by pulling the car up to the back of the motorhome and plugging it in with the car idling, just to test the controller and the roadmaster LED lights I'd added to my taillight housings. Everything worked and tested great. Then, to make sure the vacuum pump worked, I shut off the car and did the tests per the Brake Buddy instructions. Right away I got a CU readout on the controller. I went and checked the light on the Brake Buddy unit in the car and had a solid red light. I unplugged the flat 4-way and waited, and the unit reset in about 3 minutes, back to solid green. I started the car, did the test, and all was good again. Shut it off and boom, CU and red light again when I pressed the button on the controller. I do HVAC, including automotive A/C, and have external vacuum pumps, so hooked one up in place of the pump from the kit and no more CU/Red light. Then I came in and did an online search using the term Brake Buddy Stealth Red Light and up pops this thread. I researched the various parts and several options and the OP'S setup is as good as anything out there and by buying the individual parts and making your own mount bracket you'll save at least half compared to similar complete kits, and in most cases more. And as an FYI, I tested my brake booster and did a leak-down test of the vacuum system and there are no problems. My toad is a Kia Soul, so much smaller than the OP's Acadia, but same problem. The Brake Buddy Stealth is an awesome system but the vacuum pump is a totally fixable problem that's going to make it seem bad.