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Old 05-31-2019, 01:56 PM   #1
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Dead Battery - Again

We have been flat towing a 2007 Honda CRV now for 4 years, Blue Ox tow bar and original Patriot Brake System. I also ran the extra wiring harness for lights. I have just replaced battery in Honda for the fourth time. Curious - I called and talked to Patriot people and they said that they recommend pulling #19 fuse, ( radio). It is not anywhere in Honda CRV manual and I actually checked this out prior to purchase and again when I set it up. Comments? Similarities?
Thank- you!




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Old 05-31-2019, 02:18 PM   #2
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Toad charge was the answer for me.
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Old 05-31-2019, 02:50 PM   #3
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I have a fuse I pull AND a charge line.
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Old 05-31-2019, 03:32 PM   #4
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Charge line for all of the toads I have towed over the last 20 years. Never a problem.
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Old 06-01-2019, 03:45 AM   #5
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Charge line - toad

Thanks to all who replied. Question now - how to set up a charge line. I was lead down the primrose path, thinking this job was complete years ago. Thank- you.
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Old 06-01-2019, 04:25 AM   #6
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Another simple fix is battery disconnect. I picked one up at auto parts store around $10
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Old 06-01-2019, 04:34 AM   #7
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On my Enclave I am supposed to pull two fuses. I don't, just use a charge line and all is well. Since I am required to run the engine every 250 miles or so, pulling fuses would be a real drag since I would have to put them back in to run for a few minutes and then take them out again.

20 amp breaker and diode on the battery and a line on the 6 pin does the trick...
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Old 06-01-2019, 05:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sbrownstein View Post
On my Enclave I am supposed to pull two fuses. I don't, just use a charge line and all is well. Since I am required to run the engine every 250 miles or so, pulling fuses would be a real drag since I would have to put them back in to run for a few minutes and then take them out again.

20 amp breaker and diode on the battery and a line on the 6 pin does the trick...
I tow a "poor man's" version of the Buick Enclave, a Chevy Traverse. I installed two switches on the fuses I need to pull and the center pin on the 7 pin trailer plug on the MH is a constant hot wire that I use to keep my battery charged. I put a 20 amp fuse on that line in the car battery compartment. Works great for me. One dead battery on my toad was enough for me
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Old 06-01-2019, 05:40 AM   #9
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Flavius-

1) Ford does not provide a 12V trailer charge line when they send the chassis to Winnebago. The coach builder- in this case, Winnebago- may add one, if they wish.

2) The 2015 Vista owner's manual (link here) is not helpful. It shows a standard 7-pin connector on page 12-4, but that does not mean all the pins are wired and active.

3) The wiring diagrams for your coach say that a "Trailer Battery" circuit breaker exists for early-2015 Vista 36Y models (serial numbers 10E80T1 and below), but not for late-2015 Vista 36Y models (serial numbers 10E80T2 and above). Compare these two drawings (early and late), both Sheet 2, Zone D-2.

4) If I look at diagrams for a 2009 Vista (starting with this one, Sheet 2, Zone D-2, and tracing it through another diagram, circuit "UUJ"), I see there was a charge line wired for that model year. It was the same through 2014.

5) A way to see if a working charge line exists on your motorhome is to start the engine and then measure for 12V at the correct pin on the motorhome hitch connector. The pins/signals are shown for the "7-Way RV Standard" connector on this Web page.

6) The 2007 Honda CR-V owner's manual (link here), on page 251, recommends pulling the radio fuse for long tows. That fuse on the 2007 is #34. The owner's manuals for 2012-14 CR-V recommend pulling the radio fuse (#19) and sometimes another fuse, #20.

7) Roadmaster makes a "Fusemaster" to eliminate having to pull fuses. Here is a link to the "Fusemaster" on etrailer, and to the Roadmaster info page. The etrailer Web page includes a video of an installation on a 2007 CR-V.

8) There are a number of iRV2 threads that show how to install a larger battery in the CR-V. Here is a link to a Google search for posts with the terms "CR-V" and "larger battery" in them.

9) Here is a link to the results of a Google search of iRV2 posts with the terms "Winnebago," "Vista" and charge line" in them.

10) I suspect there is a working charge line in your 2015. If not, there are a number of iRV2 threads and posts on how to design and install one. You can cross that bridge when you come to it.

11) You need to confirm for yourself anything I've written. In that regard, a call to Winnebago might be worthwhile. As always, be a bit skeptical of contradictory information.
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Old 06-01-2019, 05:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post
Thanks to all who replied. Question now - how to set up a charge line. I was lead down the primrose path, thinking this job was complete years ago. Thank- you.
First thing to do is check to see if your RV has one already installed. Many coaches do and you can check the trailer plug to see if yours does. Just use a volt meter (or test light) and with the engine running see if any of the plug terminals have 12+ volts on them. On my Freightliner chassis, pin #4 in the 7 pin plug is the charge line. It is only activated if the coach engine is running.

If your RV does not have any provisions for a 12 volt feed line, then running a new one is the best option. Just protect the circuit with fuses and relay or diode.

Note: On some toads, it is becoming more important to follow the manufacturers recommendations about removing fuses. With the "advances" in electronic braking and steering, sometimes just running a charge wire is not enough. Its best to research your toads unique requirements.
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:01 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
Flavius-

1) Ford does not provide a 12V trailer charge line when they send the chassis to Winnebago. The coach builder- in this case, Winnebago- may add one, if they wish.

2) The 2015 Vista owner's manual (link here) is not helpful. It shows a standard 7-pin connector on page 12-4, but that does not mean all the pins are wired and active.

3) The wiring diagrams for your coach (link here) do not include a diagram of the charge line (if any), as near as I can tell. That does not confirm or deny that one exists.

4) However, if I look at diagrams for a 2009 Vista (starting with this one, Sheet 2, Zone D-2), I see there was a charge line wired for that model year.

5) A way to see if a working charge line exists on your motorhome is to start the engine and then measure for 12V at the correct pin on the motorhome hitch connector. The pins/signals are shown for the "7-Way RV Standard" connector on this Web page.

6) The 2007 Honda CR-V owner's manual (link here), on page 251, recommends pulling the radio fuse for long tows. That fuse on the 2007 is #34. The owner's manuals for 2012-14 CR-V recommend pulling the radio fuse (#19) and sometimes another fuse, #20.

7) Roadmaster makes a "Fusemaster" to eliminate having to pull fuses. Here is a link to the "Fusemaster" on etrailer, and to the Roadmaster info page. The etrailer Web page includes a video of an installation on a 2007 CR-V.

8) There are a number of iRV2 threads that show how to install a larger battery in the CR-V. Here is a link to a Google search for posts with the terms "CR-V" and "larger battery" in them.

9) Here is a link to the results of a Google search of iRV2 posts with the terms "Winnebago," "Vista" and charge line" in them.

10) I suspect there is a working charge line in your 2015. If not, there are a number of iRV2 threads and posts on how to design and install one. You can cross that bridge when you come to it.

11) You need to confirm for yourself anything I've written.
Excellent write up Mark! Well done.
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:24 AM   #12
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Toad batteries generally die because of one of several reasons.
- something was left on after hookup. (interior light is a common culprit)
- your turn signal and brake lights are run off of the toad battery, with no corresponding renewal of charge from toad engine/alternator.
- keys required to left in ignition and "on", or in "accessory" position for towing. (with no corresponding renewal of charge) causing the battery to discharge.

Setting up your toad with a charging wire from the tow vehicle (making sure that there is diode in place to prevent power from flowing OUT of the toad battery and back into the tow vehicle electrical system) generally takes care of problems if installed and working correctly.

I take another route. I installed dual element receptacles and bulbs in the reflector (back) of the rear turn signal lenses of our toads (Honda Element, GMC Canyon, and Subaru Outback) with wiring from the rear of the toad to the front female connector that the tow vehicle plug plugs into. That way the only drain on the toad battery for us is from the accessory outlet that runs the compressor in the brake buddy. (The toad ignition is off, so the toad brake lights don't illuminate when the toad brake pedal is depressed by the brake buddy.)

We have driven from Kentucky to Washington State with the GMC Canyon, over a period of about a week and never unhooked the toad, or ran the toad engine, and the brake buddy didn't take enough power out of the battery to prevent it from starting right up in Tacoma. Most our trips are much shorter than that.

As always, care should be taken with ANY vehicle to ensure that wire connections, grounds, battery terminals etc are clean and in good repair.

Hope you figure out your situation and stop having to replace batteries!
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:34 AM   #13
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Wow, what a write up Mark. !!

It's people like this that make this forum the best one around. That took a long long time to create and edit.

The little thank button is really never enough, especially when someone takes so much time and effort to help another.
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Old 06-01-2019, 03:08 PM   #14
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Dead Battery - Again

I upgraded the CR-V battery to the Odyssey battery and added a RVI Battery Maintainer.

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14,000 miles of towing and not one dead or weak battery. No fuses pulled. I do power off the radio and the navi monitor.
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