Community Forums

Sbrownstein · 06-02-2019, 10:20 AM

Too late for a short life. The meter is accurate, sure it might run from 14.1 to 14.3 but it has been that way from the very beginning...including the chassis battery and 4 deep cycle house batteries.

I think that set points in the 14 volt range are pretty common here. You can't run the engine for more than 8 or 9 hours anyway, so no need for trickle like on a converter.

No matter...it keeps the TOAD right up to snuff at all times.

UPDATE...read up on Ford's smart charging circuitry. Nice...for a fixed installation. Not so nice for a stripped chassis that will become an RV. SOC and charge/discharge current will be totally wrong when a battery isolation solenoid brings on an additional 400 AH or more of battery capacity. This system would never successfully charge the house bank when driving.

I wonder if they do something else in a stripped chassis, hence the change in operating characteristics that I continually monitor on my F-53 coach.

theoldwizard · 06-02-2019, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sbrownstein

UPDATE...read up on Ford's smart charging circuitry. Nice...for a fixed installation. Not so nice for a stripped chassis that will become an RV. SOC and charge/discharge current will be totally wrong when a battery isolation solenoid brings on an additional 400 AH or more of battery capacity. This system would never successfully charge the house bank when driving.

This is the exact point I have been trying to make !

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sbrownstein

I wonder if they do something else in a stripped chassis, hence the change in operating characteristics that I continually monitor on my F-53 coach.

Perhaps they do ! Seeing as all of the charging is actually controlled by the SOFTWARE in the powertrain control module, it is very easy to change.

Carlos Marti · 06-05-2019, 10:29 AM

Old wizard said:
"TOADs are towed with the ignition ON. In modern vehicles there are far too many electronics on board to really know what the total load is, key on, engine off. Any continuous draw of over about 250ma (1/4A) for more than 6 hours will likely leave the TOAD in a "no start" situation."

Not so. My 2018 Ford Edge is towed with the battery disconnected. My previous 2007 Saturn Vue was towed with ignition switch in accessory position. The ignition off in both cases.

theoldwizard · 06-05-2019, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carlos Marti

Not so. My 2018 Ford Edge is towed with the battery disconnected.

WOW ! No remote braking system or does the tow vehicle supply sufficient power to operate it ?

Sbrownstein · 06-05-2019, 12:58 PM

I guess we could talk about all the various differences between one TOAD and another. However, put a charge line on the TOAD and it really doesn't matter what the load is or the braking system draw might be. TOAD battery is at full charge when you get where you are going...

Carlos Marti · 06-05-2019, 01:49 PM

Old wizard,
Air Force One. Air from the motorhome operates the brake. Break-away is wired directly to the battery. Lights are also from the motorhome to magnetic lights on liftgate.
On the Saturn, I had a Toad Charge. Still the ignition was not on. I never had a dead battery after installing the Toad Charge.

Flavius · 06-06-2019, 06:29 AM

Thanks - just ordered one from RVI

theoldwizard · 06-06-2019, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carlos Marti

Old wizard,
Air Force One. Air from the motorhome operates the brake. Break-away is wired directly to the battery. Lights are also from the motorhome to magnetic lights on liftgate.

Sounds like a good setup and your smart disconnecting the TOAD battery !

AnonCO · 06-13-2019, 03:15 PM

While you are running the charge wire, run it to a dedicated 12V receptacle instead of messing with the one in the dash

David K · 06-13-2019, 04:20 PM

I have installed a charge line (as many have said above) with a diode in place to prevent any charge from the battery going back to the RV battery and draining the towed battery. In addition, I have an engine warmer outlet near the back of my motor home that is controlled by a switch inside of the motor home. I have put a small 12 volt battery charger/maintainer that hooks up to the battery in the towed vehicle. When the towed is attached, I hook up the battery charger and then switch on the outlet. I usually drive with the generator running (I have a full sized home refrigerator) and that provides power to the outlet for the engine warmer and the battery charger. Since I have installed both of these, I have not had a dead towed battery and the Ford Edge is known to run down its battery.

Chris Hayes3 · 06-13-2019, 04:46 PM

While i am new, 6 months, to my current MH and first time towing a TOAD, i am surprised with the number of replies that state, " Do it this way for sure, or this is the only way, or i did this way and never had a problem". There are so many variables in the configuration of the MH chassis that was delivered to the MH manufacturer, the way the Manufacturer wired it all up, and the TOAD itself.
I can tell you that i wired all the lights on my Mini Cooper S, from the wiring coming from the MH 7 Pin, via diodes on all power lines to prevent back flow. My MH has a charge line pre installed in the 7Pin and it is wired via a fuse and diode to the Toad battery. I need the charge line as the Stay and Play Duo, uses the toad battery to run the compressor system. The Mini is towed in neutral, Manual trans, doors locked and no key in the car with nothing turned on. Just came back from a 1,000 mile trip, battery was fine on all start ups. The towing aspect was excellent and trouble free.
I guess my point is do your research, and using a combined, Toad vehicle specific info from the manufacture, and some tech support from your component suppliers, and you will establish what YOUR specific set up will require. Don't rush out and buy things you may not need based on something someone else needed, as their situation was probably different. i did all the install myself, even manufacturing my own 4" drop hitch to line up the MH and the Mini. As an engineer, i know it's really over built, but i like it that way.
Also a shout out to some great tech support and advice i received during this project i can wholeheartedly recommend.
The Hitch Source
Roadmaster
E trailer

Chris

ronboatplane · 06-13-2019, 05:34 PM

Put in the switch to bypass the radio nav equipment. Did it myself and I think your fuse location in your owners manual. Went to O rellys and got a cheap switch off the shelf that fit in the panel. Soldered two wires to a burned out fuse to make a connection at the fuse panel then added and inline fuse of same value on !2V side to connect so that hot wires from fuse panel now goes to a new Walmart inline new fuse and holder to off on switch mentioned. Switch Fit right in to a dummy removed from 2013 CRV panel. You still have to turn off AC and operate this switch but your load is reduced. I use a different braking system that does not require power so you will have to power that over a different lead in the tow cable connections coming from the towing vehicle. My braking is air operated between the master cylinder and vacuum booster and is an M and G Brand unit. Works fine?

MWKingSD · 06-13-2019, 05:48 PM

I HAD that problem until I realized that my Roadmaster Invisibrake trickle charges the batter but ONLY when the coach's headlights are on since it uses the tail light power for charging. Just to me sure, I also changed the battery to the Odessy deep cycle type. I bought the Honda used and the OEM battery was only a little bigger than the one on my motorcycle.

I figure it's not a bad idea to have the headlights on all the time anyway, although for short distances on surface streets I'll turn them off. Since those two changes, has not been a problem at all. I'm really happy with the Invisibrake - works very well, and you never have to touch it, nor would you know it's in the car when not towing.

rhomco · 06-13-2019, 05:52 PM

I have the same Honda CRV, hitch and brake control . Had the same issue. I put "The Toad" charge system on and endured the same issues for two years. I too had to
replace the crv battery due to constantly draining it while towing. Tossed out "The Toad" and hard wired directly onto the coach batteries for dedicated power to the Patriot. I cut off the cigarette lighter plug and installed a two pole male & female plug set inside the cabin for the Patriot and another at the bumper for the coach connection. That worked until the Patriot warranty expired and the internal battery crapped out. I opened the Patriot and found a simple tiny tiny battery and replaced it with one twice the capacity and bought a wall charger for it. No problems for the last year. I also replaced the toy battery in the crv with a group two size odessy battery but I have not used the Patriot on crv power only since doing it. One more thing, if you have the GPS in your crv you must turn if off when towing. Good luck with your setup.
Rob