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02-15-2008, 02:45 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 6,470
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I used the Blue-Ox kit and I recommend it.
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Wayne & Roberta
08 Winnebago Destination 39W Gas UFO Workhorse Chassis......It's really weird being the same age as old people. I thought getting old would take much longer.
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02-15-2008, 02:45 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Nor'easters Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 894
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Oh, yes. I will use universal sockets but I always solder all connections along with heat shrink to cover. The sockets I was looking at in pep boys has a grounding tab on the housing.
The remco kit I installed in the old escort had a three wire ribbon to run through the car. They were using the car as a ground. I ended up running a seperate wire for ground to the magnetic lights which brightened them considerably. Not a big deal as I have spools upon spools of thhn here but it would've saved me time if they had included a 4-wire ribbon. One of the few times I installed and buttoned things up without testing. It is always the way
I have had boat and equipment trailers, and TT's and am familiar with the wiring and problems. Most problems are from bad grounds anyway.
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2011 Allegro 32CA \ 2013 CRV toad
Previous:2007 Winnebago Class C
99' Winnebago Adventurer /Towables
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02-15-2008, 02:56 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,706
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I have never heard of a diode application for tail lights messing up the operation of the tail lights from the car vs. the motorhome. That's what a diode does. Sends the electricity one way only.
Check with some of the key manufacturers, like Blue Ox. They should have the best information.
If installed correctly I do not see any risk in the car's electrical operation. For example, when I wired my HHR, I purposely ran the MH wiring to the back of the car and tapped into the wiring just in front of the tail lights. No problem.
I can see if one taps into the wiring harness too far north (in front) of the car this may cause problems, as one might not be aware of where the wiring might branch to.
__________________
Don
'07 Winnebago Journey 34H - CAT C7, Koni's, MCU's, SS Bell Crank, Safe-T-Plus
'07 HHR Toad, SMI AFO, Blue OX
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02-15-2008, 04:59 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Grayson, GA
Posts: 905
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I have the 4 door model --- don't know if the tail lights are different or not. The factory light on mine was more toward the inside of the car (looking at the left tail light from the rear -- the light was more to the right of the tail light assembly. I installed the new lights to the left. Like I said -- just make sure that there is room in the body sheet metal to accept the new light socket that will stick out some inside of the trunk area.
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Dave and Karen -- '02 Ultimate Advantage 36 C, 350 HP Cummins, Allison 3060 Tranny, 2013 Ford Edge, InvisiBrake
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02-15-2008, 05:03 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Grayson, GA
Posts: 905
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I will also add that the Roadmaster kit is a 4 wire setup and each bulb socket is grounded. I used the ground posts that the lights in the car use now. They included the crimp on rings to use for the ground wire.
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Dave and Karen -- '02 Ultimate Advantage 36 C, 350 HP Cummins, Allison 3060 Tranny, 2013 Ford Edge, InvisiBrake
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02-15-2008, 05:56 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Nor'easters Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 894
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My lights are up on the pillar so are a bit different:
Picture of the rear of a focus like it here:
http://media.automotive.com/evox/sti...006/3ha/44.jpg
__________________
2011 Allegro 32CA \ 2013 CRV toad
Previous:2007 Winnebago Class C
99' Winnebago Adventurer /Towables
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02-16-2008, 04:04 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Grayson, GA
Posts: 905
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Your tail light is different from mine. On mine, I had quite a bit more room where the red lens was to do the modification. Picture of mine is here:
www.conquestauto.com/catalog/focus.jpg
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Dave and Karen -- '02 Ultimate Advantage 36 C, 350 HP Cummins, Allison 3060 Tranny, 2013 Ford Edge, InvisiBrake
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02-18-2008, 02:49 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: California Desert
Posts: 357
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I used the Blue Ox extra bulb and wiring kit on my Wrangler. Its ture that the extra bulbs were not as bright as the originals, but a little aluminum foil (bright side out) behind the bulbs made all the difference in the world.
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2004 Southwind 32VS
2014 C-Max toad
Workhorse chassis
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02-19-2008, 02:19 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN.
Posts: 120
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I have never seen anyone comment on replacing a burned out bulb in an add on bulb system. When the socket is sealed in with RTV or epoxy how hard is it to remove if a bulb needs to be replaced?
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99 MACA 3767 F53 V10
06 CRV Stay in Play Duo
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02-19-2008, 02:35 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 507
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Hi Everyone
I have a add on bulb system on my 2001 Cherokee.The bulbs are easy to replace. I'm glad I went with that system
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02-19-2008, 02:48 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 226
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by wilanddij:
I used the Blue Ox extra bulb and wiring kit on my Wrangler. Its ture that the extra bulbs were not as bright as the originals, but a little aluminum foil (bright side out) behind the bulbs made all the difference in the world. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I've done a few of the Blue Ox BX8869 installs and always find the bulb very bright. It is important to ground each tail light as per instructions as not doing so / or having a poor ground would give you dim or no light.
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02-19-2008, 03:01 PM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 48
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I've got a Jeep Wrangler with after market LED tail lights, so I had no choice but use the diodes. Instalation was easy and I'm very happy with the results.
__________________
2008 Newmar DSDP 4304
2004 Jeep Rubicon
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02-19-2008, 03:50 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Nor'easters Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 894
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To seal things up butyl rubber is great stuff. Easy to remove and watertight. I used to use it,and still do, on outdoor coax connections. Get a roll at your rv dealer. Same stuff you use around windows and as a gasket for roof vents etc..in the rv. Winnebago (and probably many others) also uses for waterproofing where the wires exit the body in the taillamps. It should work with holding in a loose socket as there is not that much heat on that area. It would be a better solution than some of these adhesives. Due to the carcinogenic vapors from various over the counter "do all" adhesives Read the labels before you use some of these sealant/adhesives; esp. in a closed in area like a car where you will be breathing the fumes for days/weeks, possibly more until they reach a full cure.
If the hole is cut properly and carefully you will not need any sealant.
Here is a picture:
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/c...ants/48463.htm
__________________
2011 Allegro 32CA \ 2013 CRV toad
Previous:2007 Winnebago Class C
99' Winnebago Adventurer /Towables
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02-19-2008, 04:09 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 226
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ctcamper:
To seal things up butyl rubber is great stuff. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Agreed, butyl is very good and very inexpensive. Great when you install a grab rail, an awning bracket and such. A whole 20' roll is about $5.00. This thread is however is entitled "Diodes or extra bulb". I would not consider using butyl to secure a bulb receptacle in a tail light. Others might, I would not.
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