Community Forums

lass · 04-07-2018, 08:20 AM

I used to tow the same 2013 CRV and never had a problem. Others have addressed the tail light issue so I’ll just say that the traction control light will go out after a few minutes of driving. It’s not any issue.

Did have the “park” situation and just had the giggle the steering wheel in order the release the park.

wa8yxm · 04-07-2018, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Scout

....not sure what your "local" shop was thinking but if you use the OEM wiring to power towed lighting, you have to install diodes at/near the bulbs to keep your DP's 12v power from feeding back to the towed vehicle's electrical systems. Not sure what, if any, permanent damage you have done but you have to redo the towed wiring and add diodes ASAP.

You are half right. In many cases the diode pack is installed under the dash.. Under the dash there is a connector (or on one car I had it was in the fender of all the stupid places to put it) and that is where you install the diode pack (Where the company put it it got wet, corrorded and lost contasct. I had to bypass the idiot thing, but on that car there was also a connector UNDER the dash and the custom didoe pack had that plug and socket)

You simply seperate the plug and socket, plug in the diode pack and plug into it.

This should NOT affect vehicle operation at all.

That said, Sounds like someone at the dealer screwed up.. Big time.

They screwed up my Aux Brake install.. (Different dealer) so I'm not surprised.. Another dealer messed up an oil change.

Mr_D · 04-07-2018, 09:17 AM

I bought a friends '14 CR-V already set up for towing with all "professionally" installed RoadMaster equipment that matched what I already had.
Then I had to basically redo everything to bring it up to my standards. I used the Tompkins wiring setup from etrailer.

BigDBright · 04-07-2018, 09:21 AM

UPDATE:
It appears I got lucky and was able to resolve the warning light issue, as well as the stuck in park issue, with just a new brake light fuse. It makes sense, when you think about it. The traction stabilization system uses the abs brakes to control the car, if it thinks the brakes aren’t working right, the light comes on.
Now that I have safe wheels again, I called the local parts store to see if they had magnetic lights. Nope.
I have a few days to mull it over, but it might be easiest to just cut the car loom at the bulbs to isolate the car, then worry about repairs at home where I have access to parts and a dealership, if necessary. That way I don’t risk doing real damage to the car’s electrics.
I’m definitely open to suggestions, however.
Any cooler heads out there have a better idea?

allegro1x · 04-07-2018, 09:23 AM

should be a shop around there that knows how to do the wiring, if your at a campground ask the mgmt about who they would have ck this out. asking on the internet will get you a lot of good ideas, but having a tech ck it out might be the best idea. Dave

BigDBright · 04-07-2018, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeJay

We have a 2014 CRV with the Redi-Brute tow bar and used the Tompkins wiring harness shown on the E-trailer sight that Spk34 linked on post #3. Just search under "Wiring Harness".

I've wired three vehicles with the help of FIREUP here on the forums. One of those hook ups included using the diodes.

With this CRV at first I bought the harness that wants you to drill holes in the rear lights for separate bulbs and wiring but decided against it. I just didn't want to destroy the integrity of those expensive light fixtures. Then I saw the Tompkins wiring harness and watched their video and ordered it.

With this set up the Tompkins wiring harness worked like a charm and it's cheaper than some of your other choices. You only have to use the device (isolator) included, which will go inside the drivers side tail light and isolates the bulbs electrically as needed.

The harness just plugs into the lights with no soldering necessary. It's a very easy and neat set up.

Now you just have to get your unit home safely and start all over. The wiring is very, very easy.

I also wired a 12-V battery charging voltage right from the Ford wiring connection which provides a charging voltage from the Ford alternator to keep the CRV battery charged. We never remove any fuses. We did that because even after removing the fuse the CRV battery was dead when finished our first 300 mile tow. Since I did the direct wiring it has never been dead again.

The DW always sets up the CRV for towing and she follows every step exactly as outlined in the owners manual but we don't pull any fuses. I'm 99% sure the 2013 and 2014 are identical. We all know in 2015 Honda went to a CV transmission for better fuel mileage and the CRV in 2015 and newer can not be flat towed.

I'd go with poster #11 advice. The RV's brake and tail lights are very visible behind the RV. If you get stopped plead ignorance. The battery died or you blew a fuse and didn't realize it.

Thanks! I’ll definitely look into it when I get home.

Mike and Cha · 04-07-2018, 09:37 AM

If you drive to the other side of the river, Bullhead Cty has a lot of auto parts stores that should have those magnetic lights. If not the Las Vegas area is only an hour or so drive and you could get them there.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 04-07-2018, 10:00 AM

Duane-

I dunno... before I cut any wires I'd connect the coach and toad up again and see if it blew the brake light fuse again. It could have been a fluke.

It pays to keep extra fuses on hand when you follow this "diagnostic" procedure. ;-)

When I trailered boats I learned the 1-10-100 rule: Stop and check everything at 1, 10 and 100 miles from starting point. I imagine you know a similar rule from your commercial truck-driving experience. In any case, 1-10-100 would be a decent check interval for your CR-V's brake lights.

If it isn't a fluke, then you might cut the wires (the custom ones, not the factory ones, of course).

Our Fit also has a plug-and-play tow wiring system, and it is sweet, indeed.

Note: Our Fit's owner's manual recommends removing two fuses for "long" tows. We have not done so, and have not experienced any problems. We do, though, have a 12V charge line that is supposed to keep the battery charged when towing.

Note: There are lots of iRV2 posts that recommend replacing the stock CR-V battery with one with higher capacity. If you find yourself with a dead battery after a long day of towing, you may want to look at those posts.

Old Scout · 04-07-2018, 10:00 AM

...well glad I am only "half" right--for a minute there I thought I was half wrong--could you explain this to my DW--I know I would feel better....

DanKathyC · 04-07-2018, 10:00 AM

maybe just me, but i wouldnt want to cut up the factory wiring harness now that it is driveable. cant be that hard to find a shop locally that can make the connections in a professional manner- not like the original "shop". if you believe you can get better service at home, and that is somewhat the next destination, how about have dw drive it home? there is a honda dealer in kingman if that helps in any way

Spk64 · 04-07-2018, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

Duane-

I dunno... before I cut any wires I'd connect the coach and toad up again and see if it blew the brake light fuse again. It could have been a fluke.

It pays to keep extra fuses on hand when you follow this "diagnostic" procedure. ;-)

When I trailered boats I learned the 1-10-100 rule: Stop and check everything at 1, 10 and 100 miles from starting point. I imagine you know a similar rule from your commercial truck-driving experience. In any case, 1-10-100 would be a decent check interval for your CR-V's brake lights.

If no diodes were installed in the new wiring this would not be a good idea.

MSHappyCampers · 04-07-2018, 10:06 AM

When we bought the CRV I had a local truck accessories shop install the Roadmaster wiring kit which has the diodes. Are you near a city or town that might have a truck accessories shop? They might be able to fix the problem!

l1v3fr33ord1 · 04-07-2018, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spk64

If no diodes were installed in the new wiring this would not be a good idea.

We haven't heard one way or the other if diodes are installed (unless I missed it in a prior post).

Duane (the OP) could look behind the plastic panels in the rear of the CR-V to see if any diodes are near where the tow wires connect to the factory wires.

There are clueless installers out there; I'm hoping Duane's were not in that camp.

BigDBright · 04-07-2018, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

There are clueless installers out there; I'm hoping Duane's were not in that camp.

Oh, I’m now confident he is a founding member of that camp. LOL. If I can get it in time, I might follow a suggestion someone had and see if Amazon can get lights here by Monday.