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Old 03-11-2022, 06:48 PM   #1
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Flat tow 2022 Ford Edge ST

We just bought a '22 Edge ST. The manual states it’s 4-down flat towable but the setup procedure is different than the '16 Sport we have been towing the past 6 years.

Anybody out there who has a '22: How easy is the pre-tow setup? Does the battery need to be disconnected? Have you had any issues disconnecting the manual parking brake cable (that’s the a new wrinkle from the '16)?
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Old 03-11-2022, 07:43 PM   #2
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not to be a smarty
but read the owners manual.


i do know only the ST versions are four down towable now, as i was going to replace my wifes 2012 edge with a new one



we dont disconnect the battery but i do have a dedicated charge line through the 6 wire umbilical from the bus that feeds the battery through a fuse
and dedicated 12v power source from the battery to feed the patriot brake system.
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Old 04-25-2022, 11:34 AM   #3
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We find impossible to release the transmission cable. It is under the steering column so you have to lay down on the floor in front of the driver seat to even see it. The cable is attached to a tether and the cable has to pulled down and to the right to get the cable into the release slot. You have to be very strong to do It and to release it. We’re considering getting rid of the car, which we’re like, because it’s unusable to us. A really bad engineering flaw
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Old 04-26-2022, 06:08 AM   #4
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Agree. It's really hard to pull and attach the cable. After many practices we discovered that pushing the brake pedal down right before actually disconnecting the cable seems to make the cable release much easier. We have not mastered the ability to do this from the drivers seat. We too must get on the floor to do this. We've towed the car 10 times since we bought it and we seem to have solved the issue. This is our fourth Edge and while it is by far the best Edge it is more difficult to prep for towing. Don't give up yet!
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Old 04-27-2022, 09:13 AM   #5
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I have the new 2022 Ford Edge ST and have worked out a simple 3 minute procedure to flat tow the vehicle. While I agree it is difficult to sit in the drivers seat and pull the transmission cable to place the trans in Neutral it is not difficult to do so on one knee with the door open. If anyone wishes a copy of my procedure do not hesitate to contact me at

djbuschini@aol.com

I will text or email you the procedure that I do.
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Old 05-05-2022, 09:23 AM   #6
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We’ve met with the Ford dealership and the difficulty of getting this to work has been filed with Ford under their Hotline. By recommendation of the General Manager, we are in the process of filing a claim under the FL Lemon Law. It’s a shame. We like the car and just want the procedure to be easier and more accessible.
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Old 05-06-2022, 02:13 PM   #7
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Did you try Don's technique. It sure made it easier. Just curious, was the dealer able to make it work for you? If not then perhaps there is a problem with how your car was manufactured.
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Old 05-12-2022, 07:29 AM   #8
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We did try Don’s technique but it still required getting prone as opposed to one knee. It just takes so much strength to get the cable into the slot. It slips out and it’s very unsettling. This is our second cable. We tore the tether off on the first one trying to get it to work. That would be a mess if it happened on the road. We’re wondering if the cable was just a little longer if that would help although we realize it needs pressure to keep it in place. There is space under the steering column that the cable could be run for easier access but have no idea if the angle would be correct. We’re still working with Ford.
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Old 05-13-2022, 06:58 AM   #9
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Yes, you're right. Even with Don's technique it is still difficult. I had a good run of popping the cable in 5 times straight and just yesterday it took me a few tries.I too am concerned that it could pop out on a particularly bumpy road. Keep us posted if you find a better alternative.
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Old 05-26-2022, 05:51 PM   #10
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Well, Edge owners Ford’s final decision is the company line - that’s the way it’s engineered and it works, so too bad that you have to be a gorilla to get the cable in place. We think if the cable were a quarter or half inch longer it would be easier to accomplish the goal. At this point, we’re looking at getting rid of the car. Waiting for dealership to give us the amount they would give us to buy it back. Very disappointing. If we got another mechanic to jury rig it (if possible), the warranty would be voided. If we extended the tether and had some type of ratchet system that might be a solution but geez is it the consumer’s responsibility to re-engineer this crazy setup.
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Old 06-04-2022, 02:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teamasphalt View Post
Well, Edge owners Ford’s final decision is the company line - that’s the way it’s engineered and it works, so too bad that you have to be a gorilla to get the cable in place. We think if the cable were a quarter or half inch longer it would be easier to accomplish the goal. At this point, we’re looking at getting rid of the car. Waiting for dealership to give us the amount they would give us to buy it back. Very disappointing. If we got another mechanic to jury rig it (if possible), the warranty would be voided. If we extended the tether and had some type of ratchet system that might be a solution but geez is it the consumer’s responsibility to re-engineer this crazy setup.
I took the tether off and use a small pair of vice grips to grab the cable, pull it and hook it in the slot. Has worked well for me.
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Old 06-05-2022, 08:56 AM   #12
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Good suggestion Joe. Our 2022 Ford Egde ST is in the shop for 2 months because of a transmission replacement at 1500 miles! Transmission parts are on backorder. Oh well, it was a nice ride while a little while.
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Old 06-12-2022, 07:44 PM   #13
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We have a 2020 Edge ST. When we first started pulling it the process was a pain.
But soon we got the process down to a science and have pulled our Edge ST 30,000 miles without issue.

We got good at pulling the cable and locking it over. Either me or my wife can do it now in 5 or 10 seconds. We do have to bend down from outside the car not from in the seat. We do not have to get on the ground. We sit a flashlight on the floor mat first so we can see. We use one hand to brace ourself and the other hand to pull the cable out and lock it in place. The light is so we can look at the cable and validate it is perfect.

I think the cable got a little easier to pull after 5 or 10 times pulling the vehicle.

Do I like the cable and process, no. But we are used to it now and it takes under a minute.

Other Tips:
Be sure you turn off the electric parking break before you shut off the ignition.
We do use a battery disconnect switch. Ours in under the hood near the battery.
Yes we have to quickly open the hood and turn off the battery.

When it is time to unhook the vehicle. First pull and release the orange strap and cable. Then turn battery power back on. Then unhook the vehicle and cables. In that amount of time the computer is powered back up and you can start the vehicle with no errors. If you start right after turning battery power on you will get an engine error. That will stick around a while.

I do not trust the electronic parking break. That is what we kill power with a disconnect switch. And be sure to turn off the electronic parking break. The vehicle must have ignition on and your foot on the break pedal to turn off the electronic parking break. The very last thing we do when checking the blinkers and brake lights is pull the vehicle forward a few feet and make sure the wheels are turning freely.

No distance limitation. We have done a couple of 700 mile days without issue.

I do run the vehicle a little before we hook it up.

One other pain is the rear gate is designed to be electronic only. So after you disconnect the battery you have to go in through the rear doors if you need to get to the rear area.
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Old 06-13-2022, 10:32 AM   #14
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Thanks for all the responses. We’re set to go with a 2x4 to engage the brake, an extension of the tether, a flashlight and some muscle. What has been confusing is that the design of the slot in the bottom of the box, looks like the cable would come through the small slot and the metal tube would be held in place in the larger opening. But instead the cable and the tube just sit on the outside of the small slot. I appreciate Don’s help. I sent him a picture of the released cable and he verified that it was correct. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have believed it. I wish we could include pictures in the forum.
We also have a batttery disconnect switch installed. It was encouraging that it has been towed for 30K miles. That’s a real test.
If anyone has any pictures of their cable “locked” in you can send them to jwilgus66@gmail.com and I’ll share.
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