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Old 09-23-2021, 09:11 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
What make and model class c? And what eng? There is so much you can do to help with over heating.. yes if you don't want to do it.. than a good shop can.. a new 80,000.00 truck and 90,000 5er will do it.. sure.. but really.. you can have upgrade the following.. Hugh performance .radiator, trans and eng oil cooler, performance water pump and larger better fan, lower thermostat and good eng tune up and a.c. tune up and still be lower than yearly interest rate on new truck..
Choice is up to you.. and you could learn to do it all.. with just basic hand tools and save a lot.. if eng and trans still run well .. you be surprised.. what you can do to stop over heating
With all the great members here.. we can guide you step by step.. and with everyone's opinion... you can get what you have humming.. the help here is great
It all up to you..
As always good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
You just got to ask...
It’s true, f350s don’t come cheap these days. We are planning on upgrading to a new setup in the nearish future, or else what you mention with modifications might be tempting.

Edit: thought I added my rig to my signature. But we have a 2015 Thor majestic 28a with the 6.8 v10. Got 160k miles on the engine.

Seems like a productive skill to have working on drive trains. But already got too many projects and not enough time. Just curious, if we went the class a route and still had heating issues, how much you’d say a shop would charge on a f53 chassis doing the upgrades you mention?
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Old 09-23-2021, 09:14 PM   #16
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I'm a little different then most of you. I have a 2007 Winnebago Class C (32') with a 6.0L V8 @ 305hp and 4L80 Transmission (4sp OD). I tow a 1999 Jeep Wrangler. It tows it well and when I hit steep grades, yes, the temp climbs a bit from the normal temp 200 to about 210. I down shift keep the RPM's enough to get it up the grade but without having the pedal to metal. More pedal means more heat. Just recently I hit 100,000 miles and decided to do some upgrading. Replaced the water pump and thermostat to a high flow model, replaced the Viscous fan clutch and fan with new ones. Replaced the serpentine belt, all the radiator hoses and heater hoses. And did a back flush of the entire cooling system. This has been a worthwhile upgrade. I can honestly say there is very little temp increase on hills and if it does rise it quickly cools and returns to normal temps fast. But old vs new it has really never overheated on any grades and the AC is never shut off. If you're worried about overheating have the cooling system checked and you can also upgrade to a much larger radiator and reservoir. Good Luck and Happy Trails.
Thanks for the reply. How much would you guess a shop would charge doing those upgrades if you don’t mind me asking?
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Old 09-23-2021, 09:37 PM   #17
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Have you had the coolant and radiator flushed.? While doing that I would put new thermostat in and new hoses. Also have the radiator fins cleaned. I use Frost King ACF19 Foam Coil Cleaner to clean the radiator. Also works good on roof air condenser.
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Old 09-23-2021, 10:04 PM   #18
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Well boys, I too did own a 2000 36' class A with the V-10. I have run across I10 in Arizona and had the temp hitting close to 230 degree's in 100 degree weather pulling a Saturn L series. I also go to Mazatlan Mx with it and climb from sea level to over 10,000 feet in 130 miles. When I first got it, I had to slow down and shift down to let the RPM stay up and just take my time. The first 2 years I just worked around it, took my time, pulled off and run high idle until I got back down to 200 or so. Yes, I cleaned and flushed the system, cleaned the radiator, made sure the fan and belts were working and tight and put an extra trans cooler on it. I finally settled on a cheap solution. I plumbed a water hose from my water system, ran it up to the top of the radiator, took a piece of 3/8 copper pipe and drilled about 2 dozen 1/16 inch holes in it. Put an electric valve in it. Left the coach water pump on, and when the temp started to rise above 208, I would flip the switch and it just sprayed a mist of water onto the radiator. I could let the temp climb above 220 and about 1 minute of mist and the temp was back down to 200. And before you say anything about spraying water, what do you think happens when you drive in rain. As near as I could tell 1 minute of pumping used about 1 gallon of water. I didn't have to use it often, but climbing the mountain on Mex 40 from Concordia to Durango is probably the hardest climb you will ever pull. My guess is I would use 10 gallons of water climbing that 120 miles to 10,000 feet.

Yup, it's a last resort, but we did it for years with pickups towing race car trailers going like a bat out of $%&$ because we were always late for the races. Two extra W/S washer jugs and pumps would cool us down and get us to the track.
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Old 09-24-2021, 12:00 PM   #19
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Thanks for the reply. How much would you guess a shop would charge doing those upgrades if you donít mind me asking?
In California, it cost me $945 parts and labor. I'm sure prices would/could be lower in other states.
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Old 09-24-2021, 01:32 PM   #20
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You don't have to do it all at once.. but total should be under 10,000.00
1st good eng tune, add coolant and thermostat [ put in 160] with a/c check up.. under 1,500 shop does this all.. you will have to source thermostat.. jeggs, Holley, summit racing
Next aftermarket eng oil cooler.. you can sit around computer.. so source the parts yourself.. have shop install.. 200 to 400
Next
Trans cooler.. large one.. have shop install after radiator.. under 200 local parts shop.. yes.. after radiator on trans return line.. they will give you flack but you want coldest oil running back to trans.. if radiator is getting 220 you don't want that heat running back to trans.. if you run in 0 temps.. you can cover it up if too cold.. uncover it when hot.. easy.. add good trans oil temp gauge.. GLOW SHIFT GAUGES .. 100 and 100 install..
Then, custom heavy duty radiator.. big ticket item.. maybe 500 to 1,000 see j egs, summit racing or Griffin..
Add lager fan, fan clutch and performance water pump and hoses up to 1,000.. see j egs, or summit racing .. DERALE makes best fans out there.. you add one larger just measure 1st.. you will be so surprised at 1 to 1.5 inches larger will make.. and get their heavy duty fan clutch.. I like ELDERBROCK. WATER PUMPS.. HUGH DIFFERENCE.. you can use a tape measure correct ?
There is more.. but that will get you started.. like deep trans pans and eng oil pans..
ONCE you add some of this.. keep your recepts.. and that will go along way.. with getting best price for rv.. if you get it done..
Really if it's not running right.. you are going to have to discount the price a lot..
As always good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
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Old 09-24-2021, 01:37 PM   #21
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Oh.. when pulling with e350.. keep trans oil changed.. a lot.. after each trip.. until you get a trans oil cooler on it.. just a warning.. good luck
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Old 09-24-2021, 01:43 PM   #22
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So people who have towed with a gas motorhome, pulling something heavy like a wrangler, going up hills/mountains in hot summer weather, what are your real life experiences?


You should also consider going down. Mountains, hairpin turns keeping your speed in check.
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Old 09-24-2021, 07:12 PM   #23
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One work-around not mentioned is at the bottom of a steep grade unhook the towed and drive it instead of towing it and worry about overheating.
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Old 09-24-2021, 11:34 PM   #24
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Hey Scott. Yes thatís exactly where we go most of the time, up the 15 to Cedar city and Dixie forest area. Sometimes we head northwest up the 95 towards Reno where weíve encountered the worst overheating.

You said you experienced some rising engine temps before. Do you also employ on a regular basis some of the tricks to cooling down the engine as well, like turning off ac, taking breaks on steep grades, etc?
RussellAM,
*Helping* an engine to negotiate long grades in higher temps is something many of us do. I even do it with our present coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP diesel pusher. It too will start to rise in temps on longer grades in excessively warmer temps, like the Baker grade on the way to Vegas, Cajon Pass, 89 south up and into Flagstaff and a few more. When I see the temp on the engine start to rise, I just back off on the throttle, check my tach and if appropriate, I bounce down to the next lower gear. I could care less how slow I go, as long as I'm assisting that motor with pulling the 15+ tons of us and the toad, up whatever grade I'm on at the time.

IN the past, with our gas coaches, although it's been quite a while since we had one, I most likely did the same process. All motorhomes, gas or diesel, don't act the same in various situations. In gas coaches, be them C or A, even an item like the fan clutch can make a huge difference. If one of those is even slightly malfunctioning, and not pulling the required amount of air through a radiator that it should, at a critical time, can cause detrimental effects. Thermostats are much the same. If one is not opening as much as it should, your engine might not do bad on flat level ground as, there's not a lot of load on it.

But, start climbing a grade, and you need MAX coolant flowing but, the thermostat is partially closed, guess what, HEAT! In diesel pusher cases, that rear radiator is one of the worst designs in the motorhome field. But, for most of the time, it works fine. But, put it under severe stress, and if those radiator fins have dirt/debris/hay/grass/plastic grocery bags/fur/ OIL from blow by tubes being incorrectly placed/ and a few more odds and ends, even a direct drive fan which, about 98% of them have, can't force enough air through those clogged fins to help bring down operating temps.

So, in higher operating temps, EXPECT higher engine temps. If your engine handles heated grades without climbing too high, it's a bonus.
Scott
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Old 09-28-2021, 02:30 PM   #25
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One work-around not mentioned is at the bottom of a steep grade unhook the towed and drive it instead of towing it and worry about overheating.
Heck,
We even do that now with our diesel coach. Since un-hooking takes a mere minute, we zip the two apart at the bottom or, near it. Then, drive up and re-hook up when it's appropriate. It's way easier on the coach that way.
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Old 09-28-2021, 02:51 PM   #26
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My fix for an "elderly" gasser was large oil filter, deep aluminum PPE Tx pan with an over sized filter on the Allison 1000 5 speed and a temp gage (never goes over 190F), plus I wired the 2 pancake fans up front of the Tx cooler to a toggle switch on the dash, and flip them on at the base of any hill.
We travel all over Colorado and pull 8K. I did strengthen the hitch too.

Mike in Colorado
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Old 09-29-2021, 07:06 AM   #27
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Thanks for the helpful posts everyone. This has giving me a broader perspective on the engine heating issue. I’ll try to update this thread with our decision in the future.
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Old 09-29-2021, 07:40 AM   #28
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Towed a full size Chevy Tahoe from Calif to Colorado as well as a Ford Explorer a couple of times. Pulled using a Ford 460 around 1989. No heating problems. The vast amount of fuel evaporating kept it cool. Kidding of course.

The huge climbs out of Calif are a real test. Grabbing lower gears and keeping it wound up I never had any heating issues.

Did the same trip with a Ford V10 gulping fuel and screaming in my ear. No heating issues.

Had a Class A with the 454? as our last RV and towed a H3 Hummer all over Calif. Some tall hills there for sure. No overheating.

Our 40+ ft DP pulling a Ford Edge overheated once going over the Grapevine in Calif. I just slowed down and grabbed a lower gear. Changing the thermostat out solved that issue and have towed all over the us with no overheating.

So the right setup and using the transmission to keep rpm's up on hills works. The RV must be properly setup for towing of course.
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