Honda CRV owners, lend me your ear

[NascarMod]

I have a 2008 and we follow the CRV’s Owners Manual towing procedure to a T as described previously. We have towed ours well over 30,000 miles and I assure you out here in the Midwest and West our speed limits are 70 MPH plus and my 500 HP can do that without trying, and is deceptively fast and catches me going faster than I sometimes plan too.

So yes we break the 65 MPH guideline in the manual every trip we take, without ever having an issue, and the car has over 130,300 miles on its original trans. We do change the transmission fluid frequently as well as the filter. As a side note, we have never pulled a fuse and sometimes tow over (10) hours per day if we have to to be on time for our next job.

I will start the car and re-run it through the towing procedure at every fuel stop I make, but never came close to a dead battery and I do plenty of night driving.

[ronboatplane]

I put a switch in the panel for just #19 fuse and do not have the drain others report. It turns off the nav, radio, and something else which I forgot. Obtained switch that fits right in from auto parts store. The blank just pops out on left side of steering wheel. This arrangement is basically a blown fuse plugged into # 19 which remotes the two leads to the tow/ normal SPST switch with a Inline fuse close to the fuse panel. This is covered in other posts but provides detail on how accomplished.

[Kluffinator]

Originally Posted by lockinload

That's what I wanted to hear. I find it hard to believe that 65 mph becomes the magic top speed. I generally run 65 to 70 but 75 is not out of the question on a downhill grade.

FYI, which fuse do you pull and I guess this question is for anyone, but all the talk about dead batteries, why not just pull the fuse instead of installing kill switches?

The manual on my 2012 says to pull the # 19 and 20 fuses. These fuses are located on the left kick panel and it is a rather convoluted and Houdini-eusqe proceed to get to involving getting down on the knees and contorting to see what your doing. Plus the fuses are small and tight. The bypass switches eliminate this hassle. Just remember if you install a bypass switch to make sure the bypass wiring has a 7.5A inline fuse. You can buy the ready made setups for $$$ or make your own for under 10 bucks.

[SurfsideGolfer]

I too tow a 2006 CRV and a 2009 Fit. Both are great toads, but I really need to sell one or the other. The Fit only weighs 2600 pounds, and I have gotten 10+ MPG towing it with my 40ft 400hp Diplomat. CRV is only 3300 lbs, but a little less MPG. Now that’s towing 65mph max on each.

[SurfsideGolfer]

I have towed Honda three years without issue, restarting and running only once per day. These are great tow vehicles and YouTube bio on 2006 model year calls it indestructible, I concur.

[Nova Joe 269]

We've been towing a 2014 CR-V, well, for about six years now. It's been great, only problem being the battery going dead. Battery issue was resolved by going to a Group 24 battery and an Odyssey battery box.

We follow the owner's manual guidance on procedure before towing: start up, put it in all the gears including reverse and leaving the transmission in neutral and the key in accessory mode.

I usually run the car's engine a bit to warm up the trans oil--which led to an embarrassment--then go thru the gears before towing. The embarrassment came from not taking the time to warm up the CR-V, hooked it up and went thru the process. I left the car running with the thought I'd stop at the end of our road, go thru the process again and shut the engine off.

I can hear the guffaws already.

Yep, as soon as the vehicles moved 100 feet, all the doors on the CR-V locked! Oops. Found that out when I stopped to shut the engine down.

And of course, I had taken the spare set of keys out of the RV for reasons I can't recall now. So back home, stop in the road since I can't pull the RV in the drive (400' with a 90 degree turn around the house) with the car hooked up.

But to your question, yes, it tows nicely and the bigger battery eliminated all the problems. But I understand the newer CR-V's with the CVT transmission cannot be towed on all four. Not sure what year they started that but it kept us from getting a 2018 CR-V.

As others have said, transmission and converter oil change (takes 12 quarts for a triple flush) and we did the rear axle as well at the same time. We did it at 30k which I believe the manual suggests if being towed.

[JERRY188]

No problem CRVs can be towed 4 down thru 2015, 2015 and a ove Honda changed the transmission
I don't pull fuses have a direct 12 bolt from the motorhome that's only a tive when the motorhome is running with a fuse and diode at the CRV. Also have an electric braking in the toad.CRV is a 2014 all wheel drive..

[Johnynorthla]

Originally Posted by UP2LATE

2014 is the last year that CRVs can be flat towed. Honda changed the transmission for newer cars.

I installed this fuse disconnect switch on our 2014 CRV. Roadmaster 76511 FuseMaster Harness. Makes it really easy to go from driving to tow mode. Needed to drill one hole in the plastic to mount the switch. Attached is a picture. About a 1/2 hour job to do the install.

Here is our checklist for preparing the CRV for towing:

1. Check the transmission fluid level. Make sure the fluid level is between the upper and lower marks.
2. Start the engine.
3. Depress the brake pedal. Move the shift lever slowly through all its positions.
4. Shift to D and hold for five seconds
5. Shift to N and let the engine run for 3 minutes
6. Release the brake pedal
7. Turn the ignition switch to ACCESSORY mode (I). Make sure the steering wheel does not lock.
8. Turn off A/C, radio and headlights. Unplug any chargers.
9. Press fuse cutoff switch to Tow position
10. Double check that transmission is in neutral and steering wheel can turn freely.
11. Lock car on the door handle (to right) with second key.

Consult the owner's manual for exact instructions for your car. Look in the towing section.

65 is the limit on towing. We drive around 62 to be safe.

The limit is 250 miles for towing. After that you have to go thru the preparation sequence to make sure the transmission is lubed.

Hope this helps,

Ed

Nice bypass switch installation! I did a battery disconnect instead.

Not to hijack this post but my questions may help others; I’m fairly new to flat towing my CRV, did the dolly for years. There is something I always think about in regards to the flat tow procedure that you listed in step 5., is it necessary to keep your foot on the brake while the car runs for 3 min in N? I always set my timer and do a few other things and then come back and turn off the ignition.

Also we only drive 3-4 hours a day sometimes 2, does everyone run their CRV at the end of every tow day no matter if it’s low mileage for the day? I do it every start of the next tow day.

[Kluffinator]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthla

Nice bypass switch installation! I did a battery disconnect instead.



Not to hijack this post but my questions may help others; I’m fairly new to flat towing my CRV, did the dolly for years. There is something I always think about in regards to the flat tow procedure that you listed in step 5., is it necessary to keep your foot on the brake while the car runs for 3 min in N? I always set my timer and do a few other things and then come back and turn off the ignition.



Also we only drive 3-4 hours a day sometimes 2, does everyone run their CRV at the end of every tow day no matter if it’s low mileage for the day? I do it every start of the next tow day.

If the CRV is hooked to the MH when you go through the checklist( and if you are going through the checklist then it should be) it’s not going to go anywhere while idling in neutral. And if that make you nervous then set the parking brake and add an item to the end of your checklist to release the parking brake before you drive the MH.

I’ll run the CRV at the end of the tow day if nothing else to make sure everything is ok and boost the batteries a bit and to remove the keys for the night. But it’s not necessary.

[spuds]

Originally Posted by JERRY188

No problem CRVs can be towed 4 down thru 2015, 2015 and a ove Honda changed the transmission

Believe you meant to type "through 2014". You are correct that 2015's and newer cannot be towed.

[woodbender]

I use a brake buddy which activates the brake pedal upon deceleration.

the very last thing on my list is to drain the brake booster pressure by depressing the brake pedal several times. This comes after I go through the gears and shut off the engine.

If I do not do this, the brake buddy will lock up the brakes on the CRV.

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, Nova. I did the same thing.... had to call AAA.

[Mile Marker 42]

Originally Posted by lockinload

That's what I wanted to hear. I find it hard to believe that 65 mph becomes the magic top speed. I generally run 65 to 70 but 75 is not out of the question on a downhill grade.

FYI, which fuse do you pull and I guess this question is for anyone, but all the talk about dead batteries, why not just pull the fuse instead of installing kill switches?

I don't remember which fuse it was, but on the Saturn Vue, the fuse box was under the hood. Super easy. I would throw the fuse on the floor just inside the front driver door.

[bandcworkhorse]

Here's another solution to powering a portable brake box while towing. I plug mine into a portable emergency battery jump starter (purchased after a couple dead battery situations). This allows me to kill the electrical draws when the key is in the accessory position. It powers the brake box for at least 2 days, then I recharge it while parked overnight.

[Johnynorthla]

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

If the CRV is hooked to the MH when you go through the checklist( and if you are going through the checklist then it should be) it’s not going to go anywhere while idling in neutral. And if that make you nervous then set the parking brake and add an item to the end of your checklist to release the parking brake before you drive the MH.

I’ll run the CRV at the end of the tow day if nothing else to make sure everything is ok and boost the batteries a bit and to remove the keys for the night. But it’s not necessary.

Thanks Kluffinstor,

Yes, it’s always connected to the MH when I do my preflight check. I am not so much concerned rolling around as I am if there were to be some type of electronic signal from keeping the break pedal down and running in neutral for three minutes that must happen. Years ago I owned my own electronic tech company and you’ll be surprised how many gadgets have certain sequences of pressed buttons with timed events to make them going into certain modes!