Community Forums

lockinload · 10-05-2020, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

Just returned from a camp out at Reelfoot Lake here in Tennessee about 160 mile drive. When I unhooked the CRV at the campground the shift lever was locked and I had to use the override to put it into gear.

I have lights on the dash for the EPS and the Traction Control showing an error in those systems.

It drives and tows ok and the brake lights work as they should ruling out the brake switch interlock.

Any ideas as to what may be going on?

I don't even know what the override is but you now have those two lights on your dash? The traction control light won't turn on/off? Not sure what the EPS light is. Sorry, no help to you but certainly interested.

Kluffinator · 10-05-2020, 06:50 AM

Sorry. I shouldn’t have used acronyms. The EPS is Electric Power Steering. The override for the shift lever is located under a little pop off tab to the right of the lever. If you remove the tab and push down with a key or other slim object you can move the lever from park.

Johnynorthla · 10-05-2020, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

Just returned from a camp out at Reelfoot Lake here in Tennessee about 160 mile drive. When I unhooked the CRV at the campground the shift lever was locked and I had to use the override to put it into gear.

I have lights on the dash for the EPS and the Traction Control showing an error in those systems.

It drives and tows ok and the brake lights work as they should ruling out the brake switch interlock.

Any ideas as to what may be going on?

What year is your CRV? How long have you been time with it? Do you have a battery disconnect installed or just the fuse bypass switch? I did the disconnect and ran 12V under drivers side to power Aux brake system.

From what I understand your shift lever will locked in position from some type of severe jolt as you would in an accident. I could be wrong but this is what I’ve been told from someone else.

Kluffinator · 10-05-2020, 09:44 AM

2012. Thanks a good piece of information to follow about the jolt as there are quite a few potholes on the route we took. I’ll look into that.

Sonic · 10-05-2020, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

Just returned from a camp out at Reelfoot Lake here in Tennessee about 160 mile drive. When I unhooked the CRV at the campground the shift lever was locked and I had to use the override to put it into gear.

I have lights on the dash for the EPS and the Traction Control showing an error in those systems.

It drives and tows ok and the brake lights work as they should ruling out the brake switch interlock.

Any ideas as to what may be going on?

You'll need to have it diagnosed, but the lights could be anything from a bad wheel sensor to a blown fuse or relay to a true Vehicle Stability Assist system failure. I've even seen posts where replacing a bad EGR valve fixed this problem.

You might also want to check the battery and alternator voltages as they can cause those lights to come on.
https://myquantumdiscovery.com/honda...eset-procedure

If you google Honda VSA Lights, you'll find articles and videos on diagnosis and fixes.

Kluffinator · 10-06-2020, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonic

You'll need to have it diagnosed, but the lights could be anything from a bad wheel sensor to a blown fuse or relay to a true Vehicle Stability Assist system failure. I've even seen posts where replacing a bad EGR valve fixed this problem.

You might also want to check the battery and alternator voltages as they can cause those lights to come on.
https://myquantumdiscovery.com/honda...eset-procedure

If you google Honda VSA Lights, you'll find articles and videos on diagnosis and fixes.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will.

lockinload · 10-11-2020, 05:33 PM

Kluff, did you ever figure out what was causing those two lights? I have the same two on my CRV.

@kluffinator

Money Man · 10-11-2020, 07:25 PM

Our current 2014 CR-V is my 6th, 2nd one to be used as a toad.

While not terribly exciting as a car, I’ve found them to be pretty reliable.

They are noisy and acceleration is anemic but they start when the key is turned and, treated to regular maintenance, give every indication that they will last well into the next ice age.

We have ours attached to a Blue Ox baseplate and towbar with the fuse disconnect switch on the lower left side of the dash. Braking is provided by a M&G airbrake system (version 1) as it was on the 1st toad. It takes well-over 5 seconds to attach the air line and breakaway cable.

Since I’m a belt and suspenders (and suspenders) kind of guy, I also connect to a LSL Toad Charge to keep the battery up while we’re at the front end of the contraption.

And, every time I look in the back up camera screen, it seems to still be attached.

91er · 10-11-2020, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodbender

I use a brake buddy which activates the brake pedal upon deceleration.

the very last thing on my list is to drain the brake booster pressure by depressing the brake pedal several times. This comes after I go through the gears and shut off the engine.

If I do not do this, the brake buddy will lock up the brakes on the CRV.

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, Nova. I did the same thing.... had to call AAA.

Can confirm that this is true. My Even Brake smoked the two front tires while accelerating through about 60 on our 2013 CRV. Spoke with Even Brake on the phone and they stressed pushing the TEST button not once, but two or three times AFTER the engine is shut down to get rid of the vacuum pressure created by the engine.

Kluffinator · 10-11-2020, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lockinload

Kluff, did you ever figure out what was causing those two lights? I have the same two on my CRV.

@kluffinator

No. Not yet. Decided to take it to my mechanic. All the fuses are good. Even though the lights are one the car still drives ok. However it died for no reason in a parking lot. Restarted after I turned it off and put back in park. Decided I needed a professional to diagnose. Goes in on Monday the 19th.

No DTC codes Very confusing.

When I get a resolution I’ll post to follow up.

Johnynorthla · 10-12-2020, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

No. Not yet. Decided to take it to my mechanic. All the fuses are good. Even though the lights are one the car still drives ok. However it died for no reason in a parking lot. Restarted after I turned it off and put back in park. Decided I needed a professional to diagnose. Goes in on Monday the 19th.

No DTC codes Very confusing.

When I get a resolution I’ll post to follow up.

I have seen bad batteries and bad alternators do some pretty strange things in my younger days as a mechanic!

Try and disconnect/reconnect the battery for 20 min if you haven’t already done so. Or even swap out the battery if you have a 2nd vehicle.

Kluffinator · 10-12-2020, 10:27 AM

Jhonny N

Thank you for the suggestion. I'll give that a try and report back.

It will be this weekend. I'm camping fr a few days at Henry Horton SP in Tennessee. Beautiful park. Close enough (60 miles) to drive the other car so I didn't need the toad.

Gotta camp before winter sets in!

Kluffinator · 10-17-2020, 04:17 PM

JohnnyN

Following up. I took out the battery and gave it a good charge. This took about 2 hours. No faults in the battery. Put it back in and still get the same lights.

We’ll see what the shop comes back with.

Randy

Johnynorthla · 10-18-2020, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kluffinator

JohnnyN

Following up. I took out the battery and gave it a good charge. This took about 2 hours. No faults in the battery. Put it back in and still get the same lights.

We’ll see what the shop comes back with.

Randy

Good at least you ruled out the battery. Process of elimination. Keep us posted. I’m SWAGing alternator.