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Old 10-19-2020, 11:38 AM   #113
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Well JohhnyN

You were close. It was electrical.

Turned out the problem was the number 16 fuse (Stop) under the hood.
That and the mechanic seated the bypass switches in the under dash fuse block better.

$60 fix.

That resolved the VSA and EPS lights and the gear shift interlock.

I guess I was too focused on the fuses under the dash and wrongfully thought my brakes lights were working.

That’s the new thing I learned today. Now I can relax.
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Old 10-20-2020, 06:53 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by Kluffinator View Post
Well JohhnyN

You were close. It was electrical.

Turned out the problem was the number 16 fuse (Stop) under the hood.
That and the mechanic seated the bypass switches in the under dash fuse block better.

$60 fix.

That resolved the VSA and EPS lights and the gear shift interlock.

I guess I was too focused on the fuses under the dash and wrongfully thought my brakes lights were working.

That’s the new thing I learned today. Now I can relax.
Glad it was a simple fix Kluffinator! Are you on the Honda owners CRV forum? If not you should be. Join and or post your experience, it will help others. Here is the link; https://www.crvownersclub.com

Safe travels
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Old 10-22-2020, 02:14 PM   #115
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Good idea. I do visit that site time to time and will post as you suggest.
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Old 10-23-2020, 06:57 AM   #116
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Good idea. I do visit that site time to time and will post as you suggest.
Also whenever I’m on a forum and someone, such as yourself, solves a problem, I either copy and paste it in notes, or put it in an email folder I have, or I take a screenshot and store it in a folder On my iPhone. In this case I took a screenshot of your fix and put it in my Honda photos folder on my iPhone. If I ever have an issue I can always reach for it.
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Old 01-31-2021, 02:24 PM   #117
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Rember to let it idle for at least 3 minutes in neutral prior to shutting down.
Don't forget to release parking brake before
closing and locking door with your second key.
Don't want to lose that thousand dollar e brake at your next stop, you wouldn't be the first!!!
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We tow our 2011 CR-V. The pre-tow procedure is to start the car, run it through all the gears, put it in neutral, turn off the ignition, turn the key to the the first “click” (accessory), and we’re good to go.
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Old 02-01-2021, 08:28 AM   #118
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I still feel a battery disconnect is the better option than the fuse bypass. You just need to run a 12V from RV to toad for a 12V socket to power your braking system, (like BlueOx Patriot), if you have that type. I used this screw off knob type disconnect, but I’ve read others have lost the knob while towing. So my solution was to install a nylon washer with a piece cut out of it so it snaps in place between knob and contact terminal, then I tighten the knob back up. I also purchased a 2nd knob and disconnect ;-) I guess you could always just remove the knob, (where the heck did I put that thing again?)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TT9J5HF...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 02-01-2021, 09:04 AM   #119
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I still feel a battery disconnect is the better option than the fuse bypass. You just need to run a 12V from RV to toad for a 12V socket to power your braking system, (like BlueOx Patriot), if you have that type.
I had been using a Toad Charge for my 2014 CRV until I was repeatedly left with a dead battery probably due to a bad connection in my charging system. I also switched to a battery disconnect and have been much happier. I like your suggestions for avoiding a lost disconnect knob!
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Old 02-01-2021, 11:07 AM   #120
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I had been using a Toad Charge for my 2014 CRV until I was repeatedly left with a dead battery probably due to a bad connection in my charging system. I also switched to a battery disconnect and have been much happier. I like your suggestions for avoiding a lost disconnect knob!
I had my knob fall off more than once so I tried a lock washer with good sucess but finally built a fuse bypass switch with great sucess.
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Old 02-01-2021, 12:28 PM   #121
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I was told by RVi not to use a battery disconnect. The reason was if by chance the car got separated from the RV, the supplemental brake would lose power and not apply the brakes like it’s supposed to. Instead, we have the RVi battery charger. I like it because I can see the status of the battery from their tablet. Just thought I’d mention this because I hadn’t considered this emergency scenario (the supplemental brake losing power if it is not attached to the car battery). I’m not sure if other brakes have a built in battery.
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Old 02-01-2021, 04:18 PM   #122
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I was told by RVi not to use a battery disconnect. The reason was if by chance the car got separated from the RV, the supplemental brake would lose power and not apply the brakes like it’s supposed to.
That's makes a good case for the very simple, totally mechanical breakaway system used by ReadyBrute. As the vehicles separate, a cable pulled through a one-way sleeve sets the parking brake in the toad. No power required.
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Old 02-01-2021, 04:32 PM   #123
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That's makes a good case for the very simple, totally mechanical breakaway system used by ReadyBrute. As the vehicles separate, a cable pulled through a one-way sleeve sets the parking brake in the toad. No power required.
Yup, reminds me of the old saying "KISS", keep it simple stupid!
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Old 02-01-2021, 11:07 PM   #124
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I was told by RVi not to use a battery disconnect. The reason was if by chance the car got separated from the RV, the supplemental brake would lose power and not apply the brakes like it’s supposed to. Instead, we have the RVi battery charger. I like it because I can see the status of the battery from their tablet. Just thought I’d mention this because I hadn’t considered this emergency scenario (the supplemental brake losing power if it is not attached to the car battery). I’m not sure if other brakes have a built in battery.
My BlueOx Patriot 3 has a built in battery back up. And I test it every trip. So if there were to be a breakaway this backup system would work.

I really wanted the ready brute. My installer, (whom I value his opinion), talked me out of it. He was honest and said in the CRV it would be pain to install. They are better on Jeep’s.

I’m very please with my BlueOx setup.
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Old 02-02-2021, 05:59 AM   #125
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I really wanted the ready brute. My installer, (whom I value his opinion), talked me out of it. He was honest and said in the CRV it would be pain to install. They are better on Jeep’s.
Just because he didn't want to do the install didn't mean is all that difficult to do. Mine's been working fine on our 2014 CRV. And my installer didn't complain.
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Old 02-03-2021, 06:59 AM   #126
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Just because he didn't want to do the install didn't mean is all that difficult to do. Mine's been working fine on our 2014 CRV. And my installer didn't complain.
I know what you mean Docj. I had a hard time finding anyone to do it, I guess I kind of gave up to quickly because I needed it done ASAP. But I’m definitely happy and comfortable with our BlueOx setup. Haven’t had any issues at all so far, no regrets.

Docj, I’m curious, how often do you need to adjust the tension on your breaking cables? That was the only concern I had if I went with the ready brute.
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