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05-28-2015, 05:04 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 119
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Issues hooking up fuse bypass on 2014 CR V
I got my 13" fuse bypass to hook up on my 2014 Honda CR V. While trying to connect the leads to the fuse block ( fuse 19) the ends keep slipping out of the fuse holder. I have tried it once to many times now the end broke off. The fuse box isnt in the most desirable location. Any way I was just wondering if someone else experienced this issue and what they did to rectify it
Attatched you can see the bypass cable as well as my issue with the ends ( they broke off)
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2020 Wayfarer 25TW
2014 Honda CR-V
SMI Stay-in-Play
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05-28-2015, 12:43 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Full-timers - Home is where we park it.
Posts: 4,722
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edstep, you will probably get a better response if you post your question in the "Toads and Motorhome Related Towing" section of the Motorhome Forum instead of the Travel Trailer and 5th Wheel and Truck Camper Forum.
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05-28-2015, 04:27 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 119
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Good point, Just need to figure out how to do that
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2020 Wayfarer 25TW
2014 Honda CR-V
SMI Stay-in-Play
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05-28-2015, 04:54 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edstep
Good point, Just need to figure out how to do that
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Forget about pulling fuses. The problem with the CRV is the battery is no more than an oversized Lawn Tractor battery and is not designed to operate with continuous draw for hours at a time.
Go to your Honda dealer parts department and buy a battery tray (2 prices) for an Odessy. Cost about $20.
Then, go to your NAPA or equivalent store and buy a 800-900 CCA Group 24 battery that fits the Odessy tray. Now you will have a REAL BATTERY and Problem solved. Just for good measure, you could install a Charge Line from the MH battery to the toad battery but, IMO, with a good battery, it is not needed.
Trust me, I went through all this and the battery is the answer. Never mind messing with fuses.
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2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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05-28-2015, 05:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edstep
Good point, Just need to figure out how to do that
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Here is a previous post on this subject.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/dead-...rv-231836.html
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2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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05-28-2015, 05:16 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45
Forget about pulling fuses. The problem with the CRV is the battery is no more than an oversized Lawn Tractor battery and is not designed to operate with continuous draw for hours at a time.
Go to your Honda dealer parts department and buy a battery tray (2 prices) for an Odessy. Cost about $20.
Then, go to your NAPA or equivalent store and buy a 800-900 CCA Group 24 battery that fits the Odessy tray. Now you will have a REAL BATTERY and Problem solved. Just for good measure, you could install a Charge Line from the MH battery to the toad battery but, IMO, with a good battery, it is not needed.
Trust me, I went through all this and the battery is the answer. Never mind messing with fuses.
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This is the correct answer to all of the Honda CRV battery issues!!
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2024 KZ Durango Gold
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05-28-2015, 07:28 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,328
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That's one answer. Another, and the one I use, is simply use a charge line from the coch to the toad. No pulling fuses, installing a bypass, zip, nada. As long as the coach is running the toad battery is kept charged.
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Paul, Kathy, and Tux the Mini Schnauzer
2014 Tiffin Phaeton 42 LH, 2013 Honda CRV
"When the time comes to look back, make sure you'll like what you see"
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05-28-2015, 07:31 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Selah
That's one answer. Another, and the one I use, is simply use a charge line from the coch to the toad. No pulling fuses, installing a bypass, zip, nada. As long as the coach is running the toad battery is kept charged.
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This is my solution as well, but I agree the battery is cheep. Maybe that's why I bought the power-pac at Costco.
Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum
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Jack & Kay
2015 Allegro 32CA Ford Chassis
FMCA #341229
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05-28-2015, 07:37 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Carmel, Indiana
Posts: 363
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I could not get the switch wires to stay in the fuse block. I used an "add a fuse plug" which I bought at the local NAPA store which allowed me to plug in the disconnect switch to the add a fuse plug (while outside the car) and thus I was able to make sure the wires would stay attached to the "add a fuse plug". I then plugged the "add a fuse plug" into the number 19 fuse slot to install the cut off switch.
I did not want to run a charge line. These "add a fuse" plugs are used to add various powered accessories in a car using an original fuse slot with each item having its own separate fuse. The area and space to work in on the 2014 CRV fuse block makes it almost impossible to install the cutoff switch like the manufacturer says in their instructions. Using the "add a fuse" plug made it much easier to install.
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Clayton
2022 Dutch Star 3709
Previously: 2006 Winnebago Journey 36G CAT 350
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05-28-2015, 07:45 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Carmel, Indiana
Posts: 363
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I believe the item I used was referred to as:
Fuse Holder, MINI Add-A-Circuit Kit
Just make sure you buy the right size of this item, they are made in both standard size and mini-fuse size. I think the Honda was mini-fuse size, but you best check first before buying.
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Clayton
2022 Dutch Star 3709
Previously: 2006 Winnebago Journey 36G CAT 350
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05-29-2015, 05:20 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 119
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Thanks all for the responses
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2020 Wayfarer 25TW
2014 Honda CR-V
SMI Stay-in-Play
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