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Old 06-07-2020, 01:54 PM   #1
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Jeep Cherokee Flat Tow Kit DIY?

I am planning on installing the Jeep flat tow wiring kit 68321424AB required to fix wheel wobble per Jeep TSB 08-022-16, TSB 08-010-17 and 08-040-18 using instructions shown in this PDF https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_F...ew?usp=sharing


There are a variety of threads around the internet mentioning doing the installation, most of which are about having dealer do the install and problems people have ran into.


What I have not found is a thread dedicated to people doing DIY self installs, tips tricks, and modifications to the official kit. So I thought I would start one.


If you have installed this kit yourself, please chime in with issues you had with the instructions, as well as short comings of the kit, and what you might have done about them. For example the kit includes a blade fuse holder that is installed under the hood, where the fuse must be inserted to put the Cherokee into tow mode. There has been some mention of owners who have added in either a switch or a relay to take the place of inserting this fuse. Some go as far as to bringing the wiring inside to do so.





So anything you can add to helping out those of us that have not yet DIY installed the kit, please do so.
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2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
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Old 06-07-2020, 04:34 PM   #2
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I installed the harness on my previous 2015 Cherokee Trailhawk about 3 years ago. As I recall, the instructions were pretty good and I really didnít have any trouble installing it. The only thing that took me a bit to figure out was removing the tray in the fuse box under the hood to access the wire to the power steering to cut and splice in the harness. The instructions say to loosen the screws, or some such, and lift out the tray. So I loosened them but could initially not get the tray to lift out. After prying for a while and making no progress, I decided I was doing something wrong and decided to keep turning those screws even though they had no resistance. Once I turned them enough the tray just lifted out, no prying needed.

I did make one modification to make life easier with the harness. I had found a previous post from Dan that described how to make the harness automatic (no need to throw the in console switch and insert/remove the underhood fuse. Search for that thread on this forum. I decided to only implement the automatic powering of the steering portion of the fix (eliminate having to insert/remove the underhood fuse) as I was already going to be in the car to put the transfer case in neutral so was not a problem throwing the switch. This fix involves powering the harness from the motorhome charge line instead of the carís battery. Basically, you connect the charge line to the harness and the battery and isolate the harness from the battery with a diode. This allows the charge line to power the harness and charge the battery, but does not allow the harness to receive power from the battery. So the process becomes, put the transfer case in neutral, transmission in park, turn off ignition, and throw the switch. Then when you start the motorhome power flows through the charge line powering up the harness. To exit tow mode you simply turn off the motorhome, throw the switch back, return the transfer case to normal and you are good to go and no messing with the fuse. My motorhome has an ignition switched charge line, if yours doesnít you will get activation/deactivation when you plug and unplug the light umbilical.

I installed the harness as described in the instructions. After testing to ensure it worked as designed, I made the mod to enable the automatic feature. I purchased a 15 amp solar diode from Amazon. Be sure that you test the installation to ensure that it works. When the power steering is enabled through the harness the steering effort should be the same as when the engine is running. If itís not, something is wrong and you do not have wobble mitigation enabled. Also note that once you apply power to the harness and activate it, the steering will remain active for about 10 minutes after you remove power to the harness.
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Old 06-07-2020, 06:17 PM   #3
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I believe this is the thread you are talking about https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/make...ic-297500.html
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2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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Old 06-07-2020, 07:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
I believe this is the thread you are talking about https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/make...ic-297500.html
Yes, thatís the one. I really liked the mod to make powering the harness automatic. Never had to fool with the underhood fuse and it worked flawlessly for as long as I owned the car.
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:42 PM   #5
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Well I finally got around to doing the install, as you might suspect our 2020 travel plans sort of went out the window. So I thought I might give a couple of helpful pointers based on my experience, and the apparent revisions to the kit since the instruction sheet was written.


Issue #1, the included switch with red flip up cover, the instructions say to make sure to install the switch with the slot to the top side of the console, on mine the only way the flip up cover would go on was with the slot to the bottom. It seems to work right like this, so I am guessing they changed switches and the new switch has the slot on the bottom.


Issue #2, Locating the EPS wire on the can block (Yellow wire, and Yellow wire with brown stripe), in the photo it is shown as the 4th from the left position, on our Cherokee it is 4th from the right, may be elsewhere on others, so be aware.


Issue #3, Unscrewing the 3 screws on the PDC module, I read about this so I was warned, these are captive screws, but you have to loosen them a lot more than you think. It will feel like they are free spinning after a few turns, but the PDC will not separate Keep loosening the screws, and they will feel a little resistance, the free spin again, finally at this point they are really free spinning and the top / bottom will separate.


Issue #4, cutting and splicing the wire off the PK/LG Pin #53 C4 connector, they really do not give you much slack, and that tape is impossible to unwrap, I was able to carefully cut it back with small box cutter style snap off blade knife, even then there is not much room to work. I got it spliced, but I am not entirely happy with my solder work on the wire going into the harness. Time will tell if it is good enough.


Issue #5, They include (almost) all the parts needed to do the install in the kit, they even include zip ties, and heat shrink tubing. However they don't include the nut needed to connect the power wire to stud #2 of the PDC fuse array. This might not be a big deal if you have an autoparts store just down the street, but when you live 15 miles from the nearest store that does not sell gas, it can be a bit of an issue. Thankfully after about 30 minutes of searching I found one that would fit.


p.s. bonus issues, you have to ignore instruction #1, disconnect the battery, or at least move it down to when you start working under the hood. As one must move the seats forward and backward a number of times doing the center console removal and replacement dance, which with power seats requires battery power.


Other tips you will need a 8mm socket, a 10mm socket, a small flat blade or hook tip tool to release the catch on the CAN plugs, you will also need a couple of sizes of Torx bits, for the gear shift set screws, and the fender bolt to mount the relay. Also several plastic trim tools are helpful with the console removal.


I also found it much easier to remove the rear panel off the console, and disconnect and remove the wire from the CAN block before reinstalling the center console in the car.
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2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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