Long rear overhang - what is my best towing option?

[momcat]

OK You said 10 to 15 minutes to load and hook up your dolly. That does sound right, and very honest. However I and most others, I assume, can hook up a good tow bar ( blue ox,or similar) in a fraction of that time. I would guess no more than 5 minutes, if that. Also my bestus friend (Wife) can do it also. I am not arguing. Just stating what I have watched many times in camp grounds, and have personal experience with. I am really happy for people that like the dollys. They aren't my cup of tea. MOMCAT

[DAN L]

Originally Posted by cairnclub

Hey guys I'm having trouble figuring out a safe and reliable towing setup with my MH. Really want to tow because just using the bicycles is getting annoying and dangerous.

RV: 2004 Fleetwood Bounder 36S workhorse W22

Wheelbase is just over 19'
Rear overhang is just under 14'
Overall length roughly 37'
Hitch height off the ground is 26" to center of hitch

Toad: 2000 Toyota Corolla base stick shift

I tried flat towing - needed to use a 10" receiver drop to get the tow bar to be close to level with the roadmaster base plate. With dips in the road and gas station islands, the bottom of the hitch scraped the ground. Not a fun feeling. Also, because of the long overhang, the car was really having a rough ride back there - especially in tight turns when the back of the rv swings out the opposite way.

So I returned the base plate for the car (Tks Amazon!) and sold the tow bar.

Now I am thinking a dolly is my best bet because it might be able to absorb the up and down motion of the back of the rv during dips in the road and gas station curbs. Might also help with turning. Generally thinking it will be much less stress on the car as well. I know they're more difficult/involved to load and unload though. Also likely would not have to use nearly as low of a drop hitch.

Looking for advice from anyone who has a gas rig with a long rear overhang - is there something I am missing/another better way to approach this?

Really don't want to get a different toad as I like the idea of a lightweight vehicle that gets great MPG.

Here's some pics of what I tried

Thanks!

In addition to a track bar, investigate augmenting rear suspension with something like sumo springs to raise rear end.
This worked on my winne.

[MEC57]

Agree with Johnynorthla.

Flat towing is immensely easier, faster and less expensive. Blue Ox and/or Sterling tow setups .ake driveability extremely good (I've done both flat and carrier towing...flat drives MUCH easier).

Hookup is fast even with a Brake Buddy. Faster with a brake controller. I choose the Brake Buddy for portability. Many sites also require that you disconnect trailers due to overall length as well.

So the pros of flat towing beat out the cons big time. Only negative is really the tire wear on the toad.

As for the hitch drop. There are many, many gassers out there with the same overhang doing flat towing. Mine is one of them. Bottom line; just be careful once you choose the correct hitch config.

[Vet]

Vet here. I have a 2004 Bounder 35E, on a W22 chassis (With Kangaroos by the way) I have flat towed my 1990 Mazda truck and my current 2007 Mercury Milan (both stick shift) I have only bottom out twice. The cause was my knowing where I was heading was iffy, but I went anyhow. I have used Blue ox setups for both. 16 years with same drop, 8 inch. And of course the blue ox tow package on the vehicles. Never found it to be a non starter for me. Love the convenience of having my vehicle when I get where we are going. Are your shocks the originals. I went with Kona shocks and my handling improved and bounce reduced significantly. My experience, not a endorsement.

[Diesel-Lover]

Flat tow work requirements:


They vary greatly based on tow-bar and braking system investment levels and set up. How much of the system is removable to unburden the toad from carrying the stuff on its front end. Remember the old dune buggy or willys jeep with that Y bar sticking straight up.


All that took is dropping that on the hitch ball and its all good. Now if you need to set up the tow brake thing inside on the pedal that electric robot, or that air ram... the breakaway switch. It all adds up.



Furthermore, if your tow set up is such that you can unburden the toad by removing some horizontal bars and clips and such, then that adds some more work and parts. Backing a flat towed toad requires miracles. Have seen many bind the system up so tight the only way out was forward with a few accelerations and brake bumps!


Dolly is very endearing when it is set up with its own brakes proportional or surge, they each have their catches. Being able to change toads and or RVs without dropping wallet is a positive on this setup. Setting up a toad can set you back to the tune of a dolly plus and is not easily switched to a new vehicle as a dolly can.


The neat system out there is a combo trailer that carries a boat, car and golf cart too in a double-decker configuration. Now a Euro-RV that has a garage in the back for a I3s or a side slide garage for a I8 well now we are talking convenience, price is well out there and way outa my league.

[cairnclub]

Ok sorry to ghost this thread guys.

I sold the Bounder and am buying a Van Hool coach to convert.

Glad we had some good discussion here though, and thank you all.