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Old 06-24-2021, 04:04 PM   #1
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Long rear overhang - what is my best towing option?

Hey guys I'm having trouble figuring out a safe and reliable towing setup with my MH. Really want to tow because just using the bicycles is getting annoying and dangerous.

RV: 2004 Fleetwood Bounder 36S workhorse W22

Wheelbase is just over 19'
Rear overhang is just under 14'
Overall length roughly 37'
Hitch height off the ground is 26" to center of hitch

Toad: 2000 Toyota Corolla base stick shift

I tried flat towing - needed to use a 10" receiver drop to get the tow bar to be close to level with the roadmaster base plate. With dips in the road and gas station islands, the bottom of the hitch scraped the ground. Not a fun feeling. Also, because of the long overhang, the car was really having a rough ride back there - especially in tight turns when the back of the rv swings out the opposite way.

So I returned the base plate for the car (Tks Amazon!) and sold the tow bar.

Now I am thinking a dolly is my best bet because it might be able to absorb the up and down motion of the back of the rv during dips in the road and gas station curbs. Might also help with turning. Generally thinking it will be much less stress on the car as well. I know they're more difficult/involved to load and unload though. Also likely would not have to use nearly as low of a drop hitch.

Looking for advice from anyone who has a gas rig with a long rear overhang - is there something I am missing/another better way to approach this?

Really don't want to get a different toad as I like the idea of a lightweight vehicle that gets great MPG.

Here's some pics of what I tried

Thanks!
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Old 06-24-2021, 04:22 PM   #2
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Flat tow vs Dolly.... Its really a mythical brain snag where people believe that flat tow is less work than a dolly. Dolly or trailer tow is not all that difficult and not all that cumbersome. Main issue is fastening the car to the dolly with the tire straps. Hooking the dolly to the RV is rather easier than hooking the flat tow to the RV in my book, having done both ways. Full on car trailer makes it one step easier in the sense that to tiedown the wheels you are inside the trailer that is the only real difference. Bring along a tarp and a golf umbrella for your sidekick to hold over you and its a no biggie. But us campers are not allergic to rain in most cases nor a little of mud if the tarp is forgotten eh! Worse muddy situation, just hitch the dolly and take it to the parking lot, and load the car on it there!



https://towsmarttrailers.com/product...pr_seq=uniform


Fringe benefits of a towed vehicle 4 down or on a dolly behind the rig, is the trucks can pass you without that swing (well its greatly dampened because you have a tail stabilizer), same for cross winds etc.
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Old 06-24-2021, 05:02 PM   #3
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You will have the same issues with a tow dolly. The tow bar or dolly hitch should be close to level. Recommended +/- 3 inches from level.
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Old 06-24-2021, 05:14 PM   #4
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My Southwind receiver is 26" above the ground and I started out with a 10" drop to get mostly level. Scraped it a couple of times so I went to an 8" drop. Much better. Just have to plan ahead.
No dolly for me.
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Old 06-24-2021, 05:43 PM   #5
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That is the nature of the beast with gassers. The tail end of gassers typically angle up on the motorhome to give clearance but then the drop hitch negates that.

I run an 8" drop and I have dragged (lightly) 3 or 4 times. Even though they were light drags, I still do a visual inspection of the hitch to check for cracks, etc. I try to approach areas of concern at an angle or look for another way/entrance. Doesn't always work out though even when it looks like it is going to be OK.

Check the different brands of dollies as the hitch height varies a bit. For example EZE-Tow is 15" and Demco & Roadmaster is 18".

You might try renting a U-Haul dolly and try it out for a day or two before you make an investment in buying a dolly.
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Old 06-24-2021, 05:57 PM   #6
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Ok cool, that's a great idea to rent a uhaul one and test it out. I will be doing that.

F4 and D20, how long are your rear overhangs? Like from center of drive tire to hitch. My 14 feet is a long long way back there

Charles, I think there are some dollies with tongues that come up at an angle - as in it is not a completely straight piece. Maybe this is for higher hitches?

Also, why would the hitch height matter on a non-tilt deck dolly? Like the kind with separate ramp pieces. Wouldn't it just tilt on the axle a little? Dollies like this

https://cartowdolly.com/2020/06/car-tow-dolly-tires/

My scraping was not light - the hitch slapped the ground hard. No fun. I do not think switching from a 10" to 8" drop would have prevented it.
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Old 06-24-2021, 08:05 PM   #7
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I would redrill the drop hitch pin hole, and get it closer to the MH hitch receiver.
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Old 06-26-2021, 05:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I would redrill the drop hitch pin hole, and get it closer to the MH hitch receiver.
Good idea but that wouldnít change the height of the hitch much. But yes being an inch or two closer to the fulcrum (back axle) would help a little.

I already sold all my flat towing gear. Maybe there was a way I could have made it work but it really looked like the car was being thrown around. I had my friend follow me while towing the first time and he said the Corolla was not having a good time over bumps and dips in the road.

Anyone out there with long overhangs dolly towing?
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Old 06-26-2021, 05:23 PM   #9
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Yep, thats a good length overhang, but I've seen longer.

Probably a 38 or 39' gasser, with the same wheelbase as yours !
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Old 06-26-2021, 05:40 PM   #10
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I had a 30 ft class C with a 13 ft overhang.

I dolly towed a Kia Soul and then a Jeep Renegade. Both cars tracked wide of the MH in turns. I couldn't drive to sharply away from a curb. The dolly tire would climb it.

My Stehl Tow recommended bottom of ball spec was 17". I needed to raise the ball mount 2" to get that, because I had a low hitch. The hitch had skids on it, and rubbed the ground often, but the dolly never did.

I still dolly tow but with a different MH and toad.
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Old 06-26-2021, 07:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide View Post
Yep, thats a good length overhang, but I've seen longer.

Probably a 38 or 39' gasser, with the same wheelbase as yours !

Wow! Thatís insane
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Old 06-26-2021, 08:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I had a 30 ft class C with a 13 ft overhang.

I dolly towed a Kia Soul and then a Jeep Renegade. Both cars tracked wide of the MH in turns. I couldn't drive to sharply away from a curb. The dolly tire would climb it.

My Stehl Tow recommended bottom of ball spec was 17". I needed to raise the ball mount 2" to get that, because I had a low hitch. The hitch had skids on it, and rubbed the ground often, but the dolly never did.

I still dolly tow but with a different MH and toad.
Awesome so it can be done!!

Now i just have to figure out if I can get away with not using a very low drop hitch and have the tow dolly tongue angled up a bit. Wondering if this will affect the ability of the surge brakes to activate.

Definitely canít use a tilt deck dolly as I just looked at one and holding the end of the tongue at about 22 inches the built in ramps already were touching the ground. Remember my hitch is at 26 inches.
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Old 06-26-2021, 08:55 PM   #13
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I use one of these. https://cartowdolly.com/

I have a 34’ gasser. Scrape the bottom of the ball drop sometimes but like others said just gotta avoid situations where you’ll bottom out.
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Old 06-27-2021, 07:51 AM   #14
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I use one of these. https://cartowdolly.com/

I have a 34’ gasser. Scrape the bottom of the ball drop sometimes but like others said just gotta avoid situations where you’ll bottom out.
What is your hitch height? How far of a drop did you use? That’s exactly the dolly I’m thinking of using!

Trying to gauge how far my situation is from others
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