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Old 05-10-2019, 12:20 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by Tom10 View Post
I have had the Flat Tow fix installed for 2 years, but have gotten tired of pulling the fuse in and out; particularly when just stopping for the night.
So, I moved the Jeep installed fuse wire from the battery and hooked it to the charge line from the RV, and added a super bright LED behind the egg crate grill in hopes I could see from the rear cam in the RV to make sure the EPS is on. We had the death wobble once and I don't care to ever have it again.
I noticed when testing that the EPS did energize when I applied 12V, from a battery pack, to the charge line(RV is not home). However, I also noticed that the EPS stayed energized, even after removing the 12V from the charge line. Thinking I had possibly messed something up, I backed everything out and returned it to the way Jeep had installed it.
Putting the fuse in does energize the EPS as expected; however even after removing the fuse the EPS stays energized until the ignition is turned on then off; then the EPS goes off.
Now I don't know if this is normal behavior or I messed something up. I never noticed, in the past, if the EPS stayed on after I removed the fuse. I have been throwing the console switch at the appropriate times.
I would appreciate it if anyone could check and see if their EPS stays on after fuse removal.
It is a 2016 75th Anniversary Edition Cherokee
Thanks
Yes the EPS will remain active for some period of time (not sure what that is, but I don't think it's very long) after the fuse is pulled.
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:45 PM   #100
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Thanks for response. I am very glad to hear that is normal behavior, was worried I might have messed something up.
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Old 05-11-2019, 06:41 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom10 View Post
I have had the Flat Tow fix installed for 2 years, but have gotten tired of pulling the fuse in and out; particularly when just stopping for the night.
So, I moved the Jeep installed fuse wire from the battery and hooked it to the charge line from the RV, and added a super bright LED behind the egg crate grill in hopes I could see from the rear cam in the RV to make sure the EPS is on. We had the death wobble once and I don't care to ever have it again.
I noticed when testing that the EPS did energize when I applied 12V, from a battery pack, to the charge line(RV is not home). However, I also noticed that the EPS stayed energized, even after removing the 12V from the charge line. Thinking I had possibly messed something up, I backed everything out and returned it to the way Jeep had installed it.
Putting the fuse in does energize the EPS as expected; however even after removing the fuse the EPS stays energized until the ignition is turned on then off; then the EPS goes off.
Now I don't know if this is normal behavior or I messed something up. I never noticed, in the past, if the EPS stayed on after I removed the fuse. I have been throwing the console switch at the appropriate times.
I would appreciate it if anyone could check and see if their EPS stays on after fuse removal.
It is a 2016 75th Anniversary Edition Cherokee
Thanks
On my previous 2015 Trailhawk, the steering would stay active for about 10 minutes or until the ignition switch was cycled. Note that powering the flat tow harness from the coach charge line does work, however, you must also continue to charge the Cherokee’s battery or it will get depleted during towing as it is what actually powers the steering. To do so you need to connect the charge line to both the battery and the flat tow harness and insert a diode between the battery and the charge line as described by Dan at the beginning of this thread. The diode allows the battery to be charged but prevents it from powering the flat tow harness thereby enabling automatic operation. I used this method for several years before trading the car and it was much more convenient that pulling and replacing the fuse.
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Old 05-11-2019, 12:17 PM   #102
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Does anyone have instructions on the installation of the flat tow harness for the cherokee?
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Old 05-11-2019, 12:23 PM   #103
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Does anyone have instructions on the installation of the flat tow harness for the cherokee?
I have a PDF with pictures from FCA but it's too large to attach here. If you would like to send me a PM with your email address I can send it there.
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:45 AM   #104
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I do have the charge line and diode already installed. I got curious and checked the current across the Jeep installed 10A Fuse holder with the EPS energized and measured about 0.4A. If this is the total draw of the EPS, it does not seem like very much.
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:14 AM   #105
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Quote:
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I do have the charge line and diode already installed. I got curious and checked the current across the Jeep installed 10A Fuse holder with the EPS energized and measured about 0.4A. If this is the total draw of the EPS, it does not seem like very much.
It seems obvious to me that the total draw of the EPS is not across the 10 amp fuse on the flat tow harness as the steering will remain powered up for about 10 minutes after pulling that fuse.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:25 AM   #106
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It seems obvious to me that the total draw of the EPS is not across the 10 amp fuse on the flat tow harness as the steering will remain powered up for about 10 minutes after pulling that fuse.
There is a motor inside the steering rack. When the car is sitting, the motor is not drawing any current. Check the current draw while turning the steering wheel back and forth.

On a side note, the current goes "through" the fuse, and voltage is measured "across" the fuse

Regards,

Dan
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:02 AM   #107
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There is a motor inside the steering rack. When the car is sitting, the motor is not drawing any current. Check the current draw while turning the steering wheel back and forth.

On a side note, the current goes "through" the fuse, and voltage is measured "across" the fuse

Regards,

Dan
Does the "10a fuse" line actually power the steering rack motor? ... or... does it activate a relay which connects/disconnects the circuit which powers the motor. If it's the latter, and if the relay has a time delay it would explain the delay in the steering rack motor which is seemingly active minutes after the 10a-fuse circuit disconnect.
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Old 05-15-2019, 10:02 AM   #108
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Is there a thread reporting on whether the death wobble issue is solved on the 2019 Cherokees? How are they performing? Thanks
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Old 05-19-2019, 10:49 PM   #109
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It seems obvious to me that the total draw of the EPS is not across the 10 amp fuse on the flat tow harness as the steering will remain powered up for about 10 minutes after pulling that fuse.
Excellent point.....There is a lot of stuff that stays energized for several minutes after you exit the vehicle.

Dan
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Old 05-24-2019, 11:12 AM   #110
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Is there a thread reporting on whether the death wobble issue is solved on the 2019 Cherokees? How are they performing? Thanks
In this thread. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/speci...ss-444573.html


I posted pictures of the pages of a 2019
Trailhawk owners manual with everything about how what works and what will NOT work based on model and transmission.
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:10 AM   #111
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EPS and CAN

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Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post
You really only need to do this if you are "Anal" like me. Everything should work fine if you don't.
This mod is cutting the resistor etch on the new CAN block that comes in the kit. Then connect a single 120 ohm resistor on the unused 2 pins on the relay. This way the EPS (Yellow & Brn) wires are always terminated.
Here is why I wanted to do this.

The CAN bus is a two wire bus that runs from the front to the back of the car.
It normally has a termination resistor across the two wires at each end.
The new CAN block also has a resistor so that in tow mode when the EPS CAN wires are disconnected, they are still terminated. However, when in normal mode, there is an extra resistor in the middle of the bus. Jeep thinks this is fine, and I am sure it works OK.

My point is you really don't have to do this, unless you are picky...like me.

On a side note, we traded in the Cherokee for a Grand Cherokee. We started getting a "Service Transmission" error code. The code said that three temperature sensors did not match readings. Jeep did a software update for this...but we got the code one more time and traded it in. I was never happy with the way it shifted from a rolling stop.

Sorry, right now I can't find the orig. drawing file
Regards,
Dan
Hi Dan, thank you for your contribution to this thread! I have the harness kit and just completed the install of the relay that engages the EPS under the hood. I am planning to complete the install of the second relay to disconnect the EPS from the CAN over the weekend. Do you know why we need to disconnect the EPS from the CAN? While in tow mode, the only thing we are powering is the EPS, right? If no other computers are online, why are we concerned with blocking EPS signals from reaching the CAN bus?

With the above in mind, I tested my theory by putting my TH in tow mode and engaging the EPS relay under the hood. I verified the steering the wheel was easy to turn - then returned the TH back to normal. I started the TH up and received no warning indicators on my dash.

Do you know if it necessary to install the relay (or switch) under the console?
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:44 AM   #112
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With the above in mind, I tested my theory by putting my TH in tow mode and engaging the EPS relay under the hood. I verified the steering the wheel was easy to turn - then returned the TH back to normal. I started the TH up and received no warning indicators on my dash.

Do you know if it necessary to install the relay (or switch) under the console?
No, I do not know for sure.
We can only assume the engineers know of a reason to disconnect it.
I can say that the CAN bus is always active. Just opening the doors causes part of the system to "Wake-up". And I read somewhere that the software contains some king of oscillation control logic. They may be trying to completely isolate the EPS from the car when towing.

I suggest you try your experiment again and include towing the Jeep for awhile to confirm no codes.

Since you are not messing with any power connections, I would think it is fine to use it for awhile and see if you eventually get any codes. If your still under warranty, it might be best add the relay in case the dealer questions it for some reason.
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