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Old 02-27-2020, 10:06 AM   #29
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Are there any vehicles in Michigan for sale already set up for 4 down towing preferably mid Michigan
Probably - have you checked the classifieds? Here and other RV related sites and magazines.
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Old 04-17-2020, 07:23 PM   #30
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Thanks for all the reply's. I think the solution is an aluminum trailer that tilts. Loading a car is a piece of cake. Tie downs shouldn't be a big deal and I think as the trailer will be custom built, I'll get it set up for either a set of bikes or a scooter up front. The Porsche will travel infrequently and the Subaru will be primary transport.

Thanks again for the input!
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Old 04-18-2020, 06:57 AM   #31
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Thanks for all the reply's. I think the solution is an aluminum trailer that tilts. Loading a car is a piece of cake. Tie downs shouldn't be a big deal and I think as the trailer will be custom built, I'll get it set up for either a set of bikes or a scooter up front. The Porsche will travel infrequently and the Subaru will be primary transport.

Thanks again for the input!



Good deal, glad you came to a decision. For tying down multiple vehicles, the easiest way is with tie downs that grab the tire. That also allows the vehicle suspension to work, which means a larger percentage of your total load is properly dampened. On an open trailer like it sounds like you're going to get, I love a tire basket and e-track.



https://www.amazon.com/Erickson-0831.../dp/B0087P9PTW



This works with any vehicle where you can get your hand between the fender and tire. Very low vehicles like you're talking about often require an idler to get the ratchet assembly out from under the car, but that's an easy addition. Nice because these straps can't come undone no matter what, put very low stress on the vehicle, and can't mark anything up with it. Plus there's very little strap excess to deal with. Takes about 5 mins with my wife's help, couple min longer without.



If the fender clearance on the Carrera is too tight, I think these work very well, too--


https://www.amazon.com/Macs-Tie-Down.../dp/B008PPNCP2


Both of these setups give you enormous flexibility in where the vehicle gets tied down. And you need it. Motorhomes aren't crazy about extra tongue weight, so you ideally have just enough. With these setups, you can move forward and rear as necessary. Since you're talking about 4 different trailer loads (2 different cars and with /without a scooter) flexibility is your friend.



Another question - - I guess the tilting trailer you're considering has a section at the front that stays flat for the scooter?
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Old 04-18-2020, 07:38 AM   #32
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Great feedback also thanks for the links!

Looking at this model with an air dam and tool box up front. This will give me a little extra for the scooter or anything else I want to load up front. Loading is a piece of cake and I don't have to hassle with ramps.

https://youtu.be/ltLOiczk9S8
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Old 04-20-2020, 11:35 AM   #33
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Really? Can't tow full time 4X4 with no suitable transfer case. No way would I tow a rear drive 4 down without dropping the drive shaft! I do read the Owners Manual! But you are free to do as you please, but don't tell me I'm wrong!
You can tow rear or front drive vehicles with standard transmissions all day long no problems.
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Old 04-20-2020, 11:47 AM   #34
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We tow the Jeep (CJ5) four down. We tow the other cars (mostly rwd classics) on a custom built 26 ft roll-back.
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Old 04-20-2020, 11:48 AM   #35
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You can tow rear or front drive vehicles with standard transmissions all day long no problems.
If you have ever rebuilt standard rear drive transmissions, then you would know that is false. Front drive is something different.
To educate, rear drive standard trans self lubricate by the turning cluster shaft which turns only when the input shaft turns. In neutral, the only thing turning when towing is the output shaft. The cluster shaft does not turn so no self lubricating. After a while there go bushingings and bearings from lack of lube. But you can do as you please!
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Old 04-20-2020, 11:59 AM   #36
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You can tow rear or front drive vehicles with standard transmissions all day long no problems.
Not true. My buddy and I smoked his TR7 tranny. To late we found out that alot of manual trannys get their lubrication from rotation of the input shaft. We might have been ok towing with the engine idling. Bummer, we ruined a perfectly good tranny. Moral of the story: Read and Follow Your Owners' Manual.

As a matter of fact, my 2000 ZR2 Blazer OM says Transfer case in Neutral, tranny in gear, I use 3rd. Tranny in gear is to stop the input shaft of the xfer case from rotating the output shaft of the tranny by viscous affect of the rotating xfer case output shaft.
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Old 04-20-2020, 12:00 PM   #37
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Not true. My buddy and I smoked his TR7 tranny. To late we found out that alot of manual trannys get their lubrication from rotation of the input shaft. We might have been ok towing with the engine idling. Bummer, we ruined a perfectly good tranny. Moral of the story: Read and Follow Your Owners' Manual.



As a matter of fact, my 2000 ZR2 Blazer OM says Transfer case in Neutral, tranny in gear, I use 3rd. Tranny in gear is to stop the input shaft of the xfer case from rotating the output shaft of the tranny by viscous affect of the rotating xfer case output shaft.
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Old 04-20-2020, 12:14 PM   #38
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SGhost: If you are going to buy a brand new trailer I'd make sure that it is capable of carrying the weight of not only your current vehicle/vehicles but any that you are liable to get in the future... and on the trailer brakes I'd go oversize and add the largest ones that are available. My friend's personal history is showing, he upsized his toad from from a small car to a medium SUV and had to upsize the trailer brakes... and he bitched that he could have ordered the larger brakes when he bought the trailer (new) several years earlier.

And the tool box / storage box up front is a good idea... you can stash the breakaway battery in it, and more. Years ago I borrowed a trailer that didn't have a box, and twice I forgot to grab the plastic storage bin that had the tie down straps and tarps... Once I was 130 miles from home and the second time I was 400 miles... and each time had to go buy a new set of straps... ended up with three sets of straps...

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Old 04-20-2020, 12:39 PM   #39
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Great feedback also thanks for the links!

Looking at this model with an air dam and tool box up front. This will give me a little extra for the scooter or anything else I want to load up front. Loading is a piece of cake and I don't have to hassle with ramps.

https://youtu.be/ltLOiczk9S8
If you get this 14k trailer, you'll have all the braking you can use, and far more hauling capacity than you can use. I'd much rather have that in a 10k rating to save some weight, but it looks like the 10k versions usually don't have a wide enough fixed section up front for the scooter.

One more thing that I should've mentioned--CHECK THE TONGUE LENGTH. I'd say 4' is absolute minimum for being towed behind an RV, and 5' is better. The RV is so wide that it can be very limited with a short tongue--with a very short tongue, the corner of the RV can contact the corner of the trailer in a tight turn. Ask me how I know... If buying a new trailer, this longer tongue is an absolute must--it cost me $1500 to extend the tongue on my steel trailer, and aluminum would be far more complicated.
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Old 04-20-2020, 09:05 PM   #40
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Excellent point, thanks!
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