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04-06-2014, 06:34 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,670
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I am exhausted ...
This weekend I installed a Blue Ox Base Plate and a Mopar 82211156AB Wiring Harness on my 2014 Rubicon. The base plate was fairly routine … but without the help of this forum thread, the wiring harness might still be laying on my garage floor!
But it’s all installed and everything works. I took a few pictures of the wiring harness installation as that is by far the toughest part. I will post twelve (12) pictures in two (2) postings.
Photo 1 – Started by removing the passenger side fender and the door. Getting the door out of the way was worth the effort.
Photo 2 – these are the tabs that hold the fender to the body. I slid the fender up out of them and when I re-installed the fender I removed the tabs from the body and attached them back to the fender and then just pushed them back into the holes on the body.
Photo 3 – this is taken from the engine side of the firewall of the wire connectors right where you need to drill the hole through the firewall. This shot was taken after I put it all back together and you can see the wire coming out the top that heads to the front of the Jeep to hook-up to the motor home.
Photo 4 – I next un-did the two (2) nuts that hold the wire connectors plate to the firewall and folded the wires up out of my way with a plastic tie. This left the silver covered installation shield.
Photo 5 – this is the firewall after I pulled up the silver covered installation shield and drilled the hole. I used a 1-3/8” hole saw and drilled from the engine side through the firewall.
Photo 6 – this is the firewall from the inside of the vehicle after I pulled down the carpet and drilled the hole.
Photo 7 – I next fed the wire from the inside of the vehicle through the hole into the engine compartment. Had to work the rubber grommet through the hole and then push it back into the hole from the engine side of the firewall. I did apply some silicone sealant to the grommet as an extra waterproofing measure. A 1-3/8” hole is a perfect fit.
Photo 8 – Shot taken of the rubber grommet installed the hole from the inside of the vehicle.
Photo 9 – this is what the fun starts … the connector you need is the top one like everybody has stated. This shot shows it (see arrow) and was taken after the lower one was un-connected and pulled down out of the way best it could be. I probably spent a good hour trying to get this un-connected and the wiring harness connected to it. There is hardly any room to get your hands up there and I finally had to do it with just one hand while laying upside down across the passenger seat … was almost to the point of taking out the passenger seat. I did remove the one piece of wire cover molding across the passenger door opening to the front of the vehicle. I never want to have to get to that harness connector again!!
Photo 10 – going back to the engine compartment, this shows how I ran the wire to the front of the vehicle before re-installing the fender.
Photo 11 – This shows where I come out the front of the Jeep and connect to the wire going to the motor home, The harness comes with a cover/plug that you plug into the connector when not using it to keep water and dirt out of it.
Photo 12 – Hooked it all up and YES it worked!
That’s my story and I am sticking to it.
Steve
__________________
Steve & Lisa
2022 Mountain Aire 4118
2024 JL Rubicon & 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk
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04-06-2014, 06:37 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,670
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Photo 7 I next fed the wire from the inside of the vehicle through the hole into the engine compartment. Had to work the rubber grommet through the hole and then push it back into the hole from the engine side of the firewall. I did apply some silicone sealant to the grommet as an extra waterproofing measure. A 1-3/8 hole is a perfect fit.
Photo 8 Shot taken of the rubber grommet installed the hole from the inside of the vehicle.
Photo 9 this is what the fun starts
the connector you need is the top one like everybody has stated. This shot shows it (see arrow) and was taken after the lower one was un-connected and pulled down out of the way best it could be. I probably spent a good hour trying to get this un-connected and the wiring harness connected to it. There is hardly any room to get your hands up there and I finally had to do it with just one hand while laying upside down across the passenger seat
was almost to the point of taking out the passenger seat. I did remove the one piece of wire cover molding across the passenger door opening to the front of the vehicle. I never want to have to get to that harness connector again!!
Photo 10 going back to the engine compartment, this shows how I ran the wire to the front of the vehicle before re-installing the fender.
Photo 11 This shows where I come out the front of the Jeep and connect to the wire going to the motor home, The harness comes with a cover/plug that you plug into the connector when not using it to keep water and dirt out of it.
Photo 12 Hooked it all up and YES it worked!
Thats my story and I am sticking to it.
Steve
__________________
Steve & Lisa
2022 Mountain Aire 4118
2024 JL Rubicon & 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk
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04-06-2014, 06:42 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Kentville, NS
Posts: 425
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Thanks very much Steve. Mopar should be replacing their primitive instructions with your post.
__________________
_______________________________________
Binnie, Wanda & Yasper (Labradoodle)
1999 Winnebago Chieftain 35U F53 Chassis V10
Towing 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
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04-06-2014, 09:18 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Skiatook, OK
Posts: 2,550
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FLSteve, great job enjoy!!
__________________
Grant & Pat
2014 Adventurer 35P
2021 Ford Bronco OBX
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04-07-2014, 11:13 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLSteve
Photo 7 I next fed the wire from the inside of the vehicle through the hole into the engine compartment. Had to work the rubber grommet through the hole and then push it back into the hole from the engine side of the firewall. I did apply some silicone sealant to the grommet as an extra waterproofing measure. A 1-3/8 hole is a perfect fit.
Photo 8 Shot taken of the rubber grommet installed the hole from the inside of the vehicle.
Photo 9 this is what the fun starts
the connector you need is the top one like everybody has stated. This shot shows it (see arrow) and was taken after the lower one was un-connected and pulled down out of the way best it could be. I probably spent a good hour trying to get this un-connected and the wiring harness connected to it. There is hardly any room to get your hands up there and I finally had to do it with just one hand while laying upside down across the passenger seat
was almost to the point of taking out the passenger seat. I did remove the one piece of wire cover molding across the passenger door opening to the front of the vehicle. I never want to have to get to that harness connector again!!
Photo 10 going back to the engine compartment, this shows how I ran the wire to the front of the vehicle before re-installing the fender.
Photo 11 This shows where I come out the front of the Jeep and connect to the wire going to the motor home, The harness comes with a cover/plug that you plug into the connector when not using it to keep water and dirt out of it.
Photo 12 Hooked it all up and YES it worked!
Thats my story and I am sticking to it.
Steve
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Sounds all too familiar! Great job. Agree, Mopar needs serious work on their instructions. Enjoy!
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06-15-2014, 08:02 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,061
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Steve,
First let me thank you for this write-up. I just purchased a 2013, very slightly used Rubicon for my wife and I. I'm about to order all the goodies to rig it for towing 4 flat and had a few questions.
1) Why does the fender need to be removed? Seems to me there's plenty of room under there, and removing the wheel/tire would give you access. What am I missing?
2) I fear that if I remove the fender, those plastic tabs won't hold as strongly the second time around. Did you notice any looseness after re-installing the fender?
3) You said you removed the door and it was worth the effort. How did you find this beneficial?
4) Exactly which lights function when connected to the motorhome. Do all 3 brake lights work (left, right Center)? Do the front running lights and blinkers work in conjunction with the rears?
Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. I really like the idea of using a purpose built harness from Mopar (as opposed to aftermarket), but the installation process has me a bit spooked. The details of you post have served to relieve some of the spookiness!
Thanks
Bill B
BTW... We got the Silver Rubicon also. It's the coolest color!
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06-15-2014, 08:06 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,061
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Steve,
Follow-up.
I think I answered question number 1. Please understand that I'm out of town on business right now and the Jeep is at home in the driveway. I don't have the benefit of being able to go out and look at it before I ask stupid questions like question number 1 above.
I assume that the fender and fender well are connected and the fender well is really what needs to be out of the way.
Please elaborate.
Thx
Bill B
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06-16-2014, 05:44 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Kentville, NS
Posts: 425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtwinwilly
Steve,
Follow-up.
I think I answered question number 1. Please understand that I'm out of town on business right now and the Jeep is at home in the driveway. I don't have the benefit of being able to go out and look at it before I ask stupid questions like question number 1 above.
I assume that the fender and fender well are connected and the fender well is really what needs to be out of the way.
Please elaborate.
Thx
Bill B
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That is correct Bill, the inner fender is attached to the outer and it blocks access to the area where the hole needs to be cut. I bought a bag of fender clips on ebay just in case I broke some but all was fine and I did not need them.
__________________
_______________________________________
Binnie, Wanda & Yasper (Labradoodle)
1999 Winnebago Chieftain 35U F53 Chassis V10
Towing 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
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06-17-2014, 11:20 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,562
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going back to the original OPs question... the mopar cable isolates the Jeep's power and uses the towing vehicles power. So when the mopar cable is plugged in the tow vehicles it is supposed to sense the tow vehicles power. This is the reason why on some vehicles it works and some it doesnt.... it is not the cable or the jeep. It is the TOW VEHICLE's receptacle that doesn't have that output power. Im forgetting what pin should have the power but... It is documented if you dig far enough. All you nne to do is jumper a wire on pin so so to another pin and voila... magic.
__________________
Ferdinand,
2014 Thor Palazzo 33.3 (Melody), Folkstone
2017 Jeep Rubicon, Ready Brute Elite & Currie Ent Baseplate
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06-17-2014, 11:38 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtwinwilly
Steve,
First let me thank you for this write-up. I just purchased a 2013, very slightly used Rubicon for my wife and I. I'm about to order all the goodies to rig it for towing 4 flat and had a few questions.
1) Why does the fender need to be removed? Seems to me there's plenty of room under there, and removing the wheel/tire would give you access. What am I missing?
2) I fear that if I remove the fender, those plastic tabs won't hold as strongly the second time around. Did you notice any looseness after re-installing the fender?
3) You said you removed the door and it was worth the effort. How did you find this beneficial?
4) Exactly which lights function when connected to the motorhome. Do all 3 brake lights work (left, right Center)? Do the front running lights and blinkers work in conjunction with the rears?
Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. I really like the idea of using a purpose built harness from Mopar (as opposed to aftermarket), but the installation process has me a bit spooked. The details of you post have served to relieve some of the spookiness!
Thanks
Bill B
BTW... We got the Silver Rubicon also. It's the coolest color!
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vtwinwilly ... sorry for the delay but I just saw your posting. Here's my take:
1) Why does the fender need to be removed? Seems to me there's plenty of room under there, and removing the wheel/tire would give you access. What am I missing? I agree with your and corvettec3's answers.
2) I fear that if I remove the fender, those plastic tabs won't hold as strongly the second time around. Did you notice any looseness after re-installing the fender? - I was very careful removing them and they went right back on with no problems. Everything seems to be just as tight. You can always get some like corvettec3 did ... but I just "took a chance" and it worked out.
3) You said you removed the door and it was worth the effort. How did you find this beneficial? Because when I was drilling the hole and running the wire, I could reach the front and back of the firewall at the same time with both hands. Also it just made more room to get in there and work and lay on my back and head!
4) Exactly which lights function when connected to the motorhome. Do all 3 brake lights work (left, right Center)? Do the front running lights and blinkers work in conjunction with the rears? I think just the rear lights ... but will double check the next time I have it hooked up. All three (3) brake lights do come on.
__________________
Steve & Lisa
2022 Mountain Aire 4118
2024 JL Rubicon & 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk
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07-14-2014, 04:58 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Home is where we park it
Posts: 463
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FLSTEVE, is there a way I can check to see if the dealer did the job the correct way without removing anything? I'm concerned about the sealing and installation of where the wires goes thru the firewall. Thanks.
__________________
2007 Allegro 34wa .WH w20 8.1 6speed. 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon Toad.
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07-15-2014, 01:37 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepfreak
FLSTEVE, is there a way I can check to see if the dealer did the job the correct way without removing anything? I'm concerned about the sealing and installation of where the wires goes thru the firewall. Thanks.
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jeepfreak ... you should be able to see the rubber grommet from the inside by just pulling the carpet down under the glove compartment. Below is the photo I took of mine during installation and shows the rubber grommet installed in the hole from the inside of the vehicle. The only way to see the engine side of the firewall is to remove the fender etc.
Steve
__________________
Steve & Lisa
2022 Mountain Aire 4118
2024 JL Rubicon & 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk
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07-15-2014, 03:51 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Home is where we park it
Posts: 463
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Thanks Steve , it's supposed to be ready for pick up later today.
__________________
2007 Allegro 34wa .WH w20 8.1 6speed. 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon Toad.
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07-29-2014, 11:17 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 18
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The instructions said 1 1/8" hole saw and honestly, there is no way of getting the grommet through. I wished I started with 1 3/8. Right now I'm retrofitting with a Daystar grommet. The instructions from mopar are awful!
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