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Old 05-15-2022, 06:56 AM   #253
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Brake wiring harness for GC-L

Wow, didn't realize how long it has been since I have needed info on a tow vehicle.

We just purchased a 2022 Jeep Grand Cheroke L and will need to set it up for towing. For years we used the M&G Braking System on the JK, but now it looks like we will need to go to something else for the GC. To stay with an air system that looks to be the Air Force One which is fine, but leads me to one question and that is the general opinion on using a surge brake type system. Be curious as to the pros and cons on that from anyone with experience with them.

Now to the main question. On the JK we installed the Mopar harness for the lights. Does this type of harness exist for the GC? I did see a reference to a Mopar part #82216651AA in a post, but I believe that is the harness for a trailer tow package and no a flat tow package. Again, can anyone comment on that and if I am correct recommend the current alternative. I see Hopkins and Teknosha mentioned.

We currently have a 2017 Anthem with the Spartan ballast tank on the air side.

Found and read Voltdocs posts and blog. It is amazing how the same cast of characters are still proving amazing information on this forum. Not sure I'm ready to tackle this as a DIY project, but also not sure if I want Camping World to do it either :-). May actually be better off to going back to NIRVC, they are just not too convenient now that we are down in Central Florida.

TIA, Jim Campbell
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Old 05-16-2022, 11:46 AM   #254
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GCL Flat Tow Wiring Kit UPDATE

Jim, It's been a couple months since I last researched the availability of a flat tow wiring harness for the GCL. We have a 2021 GCL Overland. One one of my earlier posts I noted the Tekonsha part numbers of the harnesses we used.



Since our Jeep did not come with a trailering kit or wiring harness, a Tekonsha engineer suggested we use their trailer wiring kit (which by the way is much less expensive than the Mopar kit) and then also use the Tekonsha universal flat tow wiring kit. The trailering harness is a plug and play kit. We then spliced the flat tow harness into the trailer harness.



I was planning to do the work myself following VoltDoc's instructions, but found a Winnebago dealer not far from us in Kerville, TX who had experience installing base plates and wiring harnesses in a couple 2021 GCLs before us. Price was reasonable and they did a good job.
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Old 05-31-2022, 07:35 AM   #255
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A new question if I might.
First, thank you for all the help in getting my GCL Overland all set up.
However, my wife's health is such that I am selling the Aria and, go figure after all that work and expense, won't need the Toad.
Suggestions on where/how to sell it. Brand new Blue Ox and Air Force One. Fully loaded 2020 Overland with 10K miles. Thanks again.
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Old 06-15-2022, 08:49 PM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltdoc View Post
Interesting on the software patch, sounds like we need to find out more about how to get that!

For charging, some just wire the 12V line from the umbilical cable directly to the battery terminal (via a fuse). Personally I like to have something smarter in the line to regulate or limit the power applied to the battery and to prevent reverse discharge.

I installed the Toad Charge by LSL Products and it has been working well, no battery problems at all after towing 4000 plus miles. However we have never done a 10 hour run, but I keep tabs on it and check the voltage regularly, I have even let it go overnight without coming out of tow mode and it has been fine (only when plugged into shore power and I know my coach start batteries are getting charged). The Toad Charge limits the current to the towed battery to 10 Amps and won't let the towed battery discharge back to the coach electrical system.

My 12 volt wire from the coach comes thru the umbilical, and I did my own additional wiring so only bought the controller kit which is $55.

The photo below shows where I mounted the Toad Charge to the right of the Demco AFO.



Even with the trim panels in place the Toad Charge status LED's are still easily visible as shown below.



The six cylinder L has the primary (and secondary?) AGM (sealed) batteries under the driver seat, but has jumper terminals at the fuse box under the hood. That's where I tied into the battery as shown below. The same wire and fuse also caries the power to my breakaway switch.

Question for anyone else out there... I am trying to wire in a battery charger that runs off the lead of the coach.
For the Toad Charge, how did you wire it to the main battery? The main batteries are under the seat from what I can tell. According to the instructions the positive and negative must attach to the posts... Even the Toad Charge you mention states the negative should go to the post on the toad and not the chassis.
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Old 06-15-2022, 09:54 PM   #257
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As mentioned above, I need help with the last couple of pieces of my installation. I have already wired the lights and just need to figure out a good way to get the battery that is under the seat with the RVi Towed Battery Charger.

Additionally, from what I am reading it sounds like the GCL has a soft brake. Does this mean it has active assist brakes? That is different from my 2021 Wrangler. My RVibrake system has a different setting for vacuum vs active...

I have successfully towed over 5,000 miles with my 2021 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon that is modified for rock crawling. I have only had one time that the brakes locked up for some reason. Not sure why, but I dragged it for about 12 miles not knowing it as the motorhome has plenty of power and weight. Pads were smoking and the wheels were too hot to touch, very fortunate it did not catch on fire. I ended up replacing the pads.



We purchased one of the first 2021 Overland GCL's in Colorado. We were originally set on the Summit but my wife did not want the crosshatch stitching on the seats and door panels. I did not mind it, but it is her car so we fully loaded up the Overland with every option.

As mentioned, the Wrangler is lifted on 37" tires and not the most economical vehicle to drag around if we are not going to a wheeling destination so I finally got around to hooking up the GCL. I am glad that we waited because Roadmaster now has a kit for the Overland that retains the tow hooks. It does require some cutting and drilling so it is not for the faint of heart. Instructions state 3.5 hours and two people. It took me nearly 5 hours to do by myself. 3.5 has to be for someone that has completed it before. This is not a project for the faint of heart. The instructions are vague and leave a few details out. Here are a couple of pictures during and after the installation. Also a picture of the setup with the Wrangler...

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Old 06-16-2022, 12:08 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinJason View Post
As mentioned above, I need help with the last couple of pieces of my installation. I have already wired the lights and just need to figure out a good way to get the battery that is under the seat with the RVi Towed Battery Charger.
There is no need to connect the tow charging wiring directly to the battery under the seat. Any statement to that effect is intended to prevent connecting to some charging point with a possible small gauge (high resistance) wire between that point and the battery which would induce a voltage drop, which in turn could skew the charging parameters. The GC-L has heavy gauge wiring from the battery(s) under the seat (the 6 cyl GC=L has a second battery) brought out to the fuse box under the hood. There are tie points there specifically intended to jump the vehicle should the battery go dead. 100's of amps are likely when jumping a dead battery so there is no doubt this wiring is suitable to handle a 10A charging current with an insignificant voltage drop. In the last photo in post #256 you can see where I connected my positive charging lead, slightly to the left near the bottom of that photo you can see the factory installed post intended to connect the negative clamp from a set of jumper cables should they ever be needed. You could make your negative connection there, or anywhere else there is a solid electrically suitable chassis bolt. I don't remember where I tied the negative leads to the chassis, but it was somewhere near the Air Force One where some other negative wires were already connected. BTW, the Toad Charge has two negative connections on its terminal block, one from the motorhome and one that goes to the tow vehicle battery - these connections are common (connected together internally - verified with Toad Charge) so only one wire from the toad charge terminal block is actually needed. I have towed over 8000 miles so far with this setup and never had even a hint of an issue with low battery voltage on the GC-L.

Quote:
Additionally, from what I am reading it sounds like the GCL has a soft brake. Does this mean it has active assist brakes? That is different from my 2021 Wrangler. My RVibrake system has a different setting for vacuum vs active...
Sort of, the GC-L has electric brakes, I'm not sure if they are technically called "Active Assist", but the bottom line is they present a "soft pedal" exactly like you would get from a vehicle with vacuum boosted power brakes. A far a I can tell the electric brakes are always active on the GC-L. On my Air Force One, the vacuum boost is disabled and it works fine, with your RVI brake I would assume you want the "Assist" setting but you should check with them.

Quote:
I have successfully towed over 5,000 miles with my 2021 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon that is modified for rock crawling. I have only had one time that the brakes locked up for some reason. Not sure why, but I dragged it for about 12 miles not knowing it as the motorhome has plenty of power and weight. Pads were smoking and the wheels were too hot to touch, very fortunate it did not catch on fire. I ended up replacing the pads.
Guess you are lucky there wasn't more extensive damage. I towed my previous Honda Odyssey several hundred miles with the mechanical parking brake set, luckily it is just a separate "drum" brake inside the rear disk, which couldn't lock the wheels and didn't affect the regular brakes in any way. Keep in mind tho the GC-L has an Electric Parking Brake (EPB) which can be triggered by many seemingly casual situations (like opening the door if not in Park). Apparently the GC-L parking brake will lock the rear wheels up solid. Earlier in this thread you will find posts from folks that burned out their rear tires because of this. If you follow the steps in my video for preparing the GC-L to tow you can avoid accidentally triggering the EPB, at least it has worked for me for the last year and 8000 miles.

Quote:
I am glad that we waited because Roadmaster now has a kit for the Overland that retains the tow hooks. It does require some cutting and drilling so it is not for the faint of heart. Instructions state 3.5 hours and two people. It took me nearly 5 hours to do by myself. 3.5 has to be for someone that has completed it before. This is not a project for the faint of heart. The instructions are vague and leave a few details out. Here are a couple of pictures during and after the installation. Also a picture of the setup with the Wrangler...
Thanks for the info on this, I plan to upgrade to that version (or the Blue Ox) later this summer so I can get my Tow Hooks back, both require extensive cutting it seems. What tools did you need to do the cuts?

Good luck!
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Old 06-17-2022, 12:08 AM   #259
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Thanks for the info. I am comfortable with the power lead going to those power leads like your picture. The challenge I am still having is just putting the negative to the chassis instead of a negative that is leading back to the battery. I called the manufacture and they stated it must be attached to the battery and not the chassis, maybe I will call back and see if I get a different answer.

I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel on it for the Roadmaster installation. It needed a few cuts on the front of the frame horns. The plastic cuts I just made with snips. You have to drill 4 holes in the frame for extra support. They asked for a 17/32 which nobody local had in stock. I used a 1/2" drill bit and still had plenty of room for the bolts.

One thing they do not suggest is to paint over all of the cut marks and holes to prevent rust. I took the few minutes extra to do that. Also, be prepared with something to pinch the front camera washer hose that is on the passenger side behind the wheel well. I just folded it back like you would a hose and ran some tape around it. It is not under any pressure so that method worked fine for me. They also miss two clips that need to be removed under the bumper once you pull back the black cover.
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Old 06-17-2022, 10:28 AM   #260
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Well, when I pushed RVi on why this has to be connected to the negative battery, they backed off a bit and said it may create a noisy ground... Like you, I have grounded other items to the chassis without a problem and will try this method. I am going to double check the positive leads to try to figure out which one is actually attached to the main battery vs. the aux battery.
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Old 06-18-2022, 09:58 AM   #261
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Well as an ole Air Force technician, ground is ground as long as its a good connection, battery or chassis. You never know who your talking to on the phone, Sometimes its like talking to a guy at the car parts counter who is clueless as to what a radiator cap pressure rating is... True story.

The other fact is they show chassis ground on their wiring diagrams for the AFO, not a direct connection to the battery. At least in my day the arrow with the lines in it means chassis, if it was direct to battery it would show wired to 12- next to the 12+

Now power (12+) is another story, as that can cause noise.
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Old 06-30-2022, 10:43 AM   #262
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I am also shopping for a new Jeep Cherokee Summit or Overland. I am greatly concerned about the death wobble too, since my 2015 Jeep Trailhawk had it twice. Now the transmission is acting up, and I need a new Toad vehicle. So if I don't purchase a Jeep, I'm wondering what other cars that are similar to the Summit, that I should get. I also am concerned whether my Blue Ox will work with a new car and if I have to order parts to adapt a new car to the Blue Ox. The supply chain is so unreliable and it's a domino effect that I don't look forward to. The 2022 Lincoln Nautilus is not on the 2022 Dingy list.
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Old 06-30-2022, 03:44 PM   #263
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GCL Summit break away & airline mounts

So, for those of you with GCL Summits, I'm in the process of installing the baseplate wiring, etc. I have noticed that there really isn't anything solid to mount the breakaway switch or the airline hookup to in a neutral zone. I was debating mounting them on top of the safety hook tabs, but figure the hooks will be a hazard or in the way? I'm debating attaching a steel strap across the mounting tabs behind the grille to use as a plate to install those...

Anyone that can share pics of how theirs was installed would be appreciated!

Thanks!
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Old 07-01-2022, 09:34 AM   #264
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I installed the Roadmaster base plate on my GCL Overland with the RVi Brake system by myself. I was originally concerned about getting the vehicle into Neautral after reading the comments. I used the new 3 page Jeep instructions posted earlier and did not have any troubles at all. I have towed about 1,000 miles already with the setup and zero problems. It is just about as easy to setup as my Wrangler.

For the poster inquiring about the brake bracket, the Roadmaster has a tab for that right next to the round adapater that comes out of the grill.

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