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Old 04-13-2018, 09:45 AM   #1
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Power for Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk Toad

We made the move to 4 down towing with the acquisition of a gently used 2017 Trailhawk. I'm in the process of getting the Flat Tow Cable added and installing baseplates, etc. for towing.

I'm going with an RViBrake 3 brake system and will have the battery charger installed to power both the RViBrake and the Cherokee steering system. The question I have is whether I have to beef up the 12V supply wiring from my ACE 30.1 to power the battery charger.

Does anyone know how much power the coach can deliver with Ford standard wiring to the 7 pin connector. Will I need to replace the wire with something more substantial with a higher capacity fuse?
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:02 AM   #2
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I believe that it is 20 amps. Most 7 way connectors have #10 for the battery and ground.

Why add anything else. Hook the battery line up to the battery of the TOAD through a 20 amp auto reset breaker.
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Old 04-13-2018, 10:54 AM   #3
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This thread has some references you may find useful.
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Old 04-13-2018, 02:29 PM   #4
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DenverTransplant-

Ford does not provide a charge line on the F-53 chassis. The coach builder, if he chooses, provides the charge line. You should ask Thor about charge line wiring and fusing.
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Old 04-14-2018, 05:40 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverTransplant View Post
We made the move to 4 down towing with the acquisition of a gently used 2017 Trailhawk. I'm in the process of getting the Flat Tow Cable added and installing baseplates, etc. for towing.



I'm going with an RViBrake 3 brake system and will have the battery charger installed to power both the RViBrake and the Cherokee steering system. The question I have is whether I have to beef up the 12V supply wiring from my ACE 30.1 to power the battery charger.



Does anyone know how much power the coach can deliver with Ford standard wiring to the 7 pin connector. Will I need to replace the wire with something more substantial with a higher capacity fuse?


Towing 2016 Cherokee behind Winnebago View use Blue Ox and RVI 3 braking system. Using coach power for steering, RVI and toad lights. No real issues except for the procedure in Jeep manual on re-engaging transfer case. There is an aftermarket button installed that must be left on to power Jeep brakes and transfer case. Follow instructions and should be good.
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:42 AM   #6
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Just discovered my Cherokee Trailhawk leaks water from somewhere. Discovered driver’s side floor carpet soaked along with rear carpet. Many reports of leaking Jeeps on Jeepgarage.org. Biggest concern is add on’s for toad may short out or something else. Appointment tomorrow with dealer to trace leak and hopefully fix.

I’ll post later on what was discovered and fix.
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Old 02-13-2019, 10:40 AM   #7
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Towing 2016 Cherokee behind Winnebago View use Blue Ox and RVI 3 braking system. Using coach power for steering, RVI and toad lights. No real issues except for the procedure in Jeep manual on re-engaging transfer case. There is an aftermarket button installed that must be left on to power Jeep brakes and transfer case. Follow instructions and should be good.
I'm just looking into rv options for the future and am curious, I have a 17 Cherokee TrailHawk. Understand the power for braking system but, what steering are you talking about? The transfer case should be in neutral, right?
Real questions are why do you need power for steering and transfer case?

Thanks
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Old 02-13-2019, 12:18 PM   #8
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Boyd’s to stop a death wobble problem. You should also put in a battery charge line. Yes transfer in netural.
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Old 02-13-2019, 05:14 PM   #9
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There is a Jeep accessory that needs installed to power the steering. We also must install a 20 amp fuse in an inline location. That is to power the steering preventing the wobble.

Then we install an RVI 3 brake and plug it into a 12 volt plug that was installed to power the breaks.

The transfer case must be in neutral too. You must follow the steps in the owner’s manual to disengage/engage the transfer case.

We also carry an auto code reader to clear out codes because sometime the computer has false positive codes. I know they are false positives because they don’t come back.
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:17 AM   #10
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There is a Jeep accessory that needs installed to power the steering. We also must install a 20 amp fuse in an inline location. That is to power the steering preventing the wobble.

Then we install an RVI 3 brake and plug it into a 12 volt plug that was installed to power the breaks.

The transfer case must be in neutral too. You must follow the steps in the owner’s manual to disengage/engage the transfer case.

We also carry an auto code reader to clear out codes because sometime the computer has false positive codes. I know they are false positives because they don’t come back.
The Jeep Flat Tow Kit consists of a wire harness that routes power to the electric power steering while you are towing so the steering remains stable. The harness has a 10 amp fuse in-line that you install when towing and remove to drive normally. There is also a toggle switch that is installed in the console and connected to the car’s CAN buss to tell the computer to ignore that the power steering is powered with the car off. You are supposed to flip the switch and then install the fuse. When you are disconnecting, remove the fuse and then flip the switch. If you do it in the wrong order you will get a check engine light with a Power Steering code. This code clears after a couple of engine starts.

Because the electric power steering is powered during towing, its using power so you need to keep the Jeep’s battery charged while towing. We have the RVi charger module ($50) installed to keep the battery charged.
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Old 02-14-2019, 12:11 PM   #11
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Thanks for the replies. Seems there shoudl have been a way for them to add another switch instead of removing and installing a fuse every time.
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Old 02-14-2019, 02:42 PM   #12
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There is a switch you can buy and it replaces the fuse.
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Old 02-14-2019, 02:55 PM   #13
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Better yet install a fused 12v relay in place of the fuse and have it energize when the umbilical from the RV is plugged into the TOAD. Many of us have done this. There are some good How-To posts in this forum.
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:33 PM   #14
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Thanks for the replies. Seems there shoudl have been a way for them to add another switch instead of removing and installing a fuse every time.
I installed my own switch. You intercept the wire between the battery and the fuse and route the circuit through the grommet that is behind the brake pedal to the switch. The only place I found to put it was under the dash near the OBDC port. Could hav Erin it to the console, but that looked like a much bigger job. It was tough enough getting the wiring to the grommet, but I got lucky and could follow the RVi breakaway cable.
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