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Old 11-17-2021, 03:19 PM   #1
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Problems at RV’s 7-way tow wiring socket

I’ve just finished installing a full tow package (Blue OX baseplate, Demco Stay-IN-Play Braking system, Hopkins wiring harness, etc., etc.) on my 2014 Honda CR-V.
I decided to check the 7-way socket on the RV (2018 FR Sunseeker 2400R MBS) before hooking up the toad and the only prongs that seem to work are the 12V and the ground. With the RV on and running, I’d expect to get a 12V signal at the appropriate prongs for taillights, right turn and brake, and left turn and brake, as tested with a multimeter. Is this correct?
I tried to take apart the Hopkins 7 Blade Vehicle Connector (48485?) to check for loose or corroded terminals, but I can’t push the ‘internals’ forward to get access to the wiring terminals. Suggestions on how to proceed?
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Old 11-17-2021, 06:22 PM   #2
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Yes, meter on the ground and each pin will show 12 volts when the associated lights are activated on the RV.

Maybe Mercedes does something to inhibit the outputs until it senses a plug installed. Did you plug the toad in to see if you get any lights on the toad when the RV lights are on?
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Old 11-17-2021, 06:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomeAR View Post
I’ve just finished installing a full tow package (Blue OX baseplate, Demco Stay-IN-Play Braking system, Hopkins wiring harness, etc., etc.) on my 2014 Honda CR-V.
I decided to check the 7-way socket on the RV (2018 FR Sunseeker 2400R MBS) before hooking up the toad and the only prongs that seem to work are the 12V and the ground. With the RV on and running, I’d expect to get a 12V signal at the appropriate prongs for taillights, right turn and brake, and left turn and brake, as tested with a multimeter. Is this correct?
I tried to take apart the Hopkins 7 Blade Vehicle Connector (48485?) to check for loose or corroded terminals, but I can’t push the ‘internals’ forward to get access to the wiring terminals. Suggestions on how to proceed?
Check wires prior to the plug. (may have to penetrate the wires) Try using with the ground pin on the plug to check if it completes the circuit.. if still no lights try making your own ground on the frame see if that works...

If you got power on those wire prior to the plug you may have to figure a way to get into that plug..

if nothing there maybe fuses??? follow the wires.. possible loose or bad plug somewhere

good luck
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Old 11-19-2021, 08:41 AM   #4
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Solved

Got it figured out. Multimeter didn't do it; just needed a simple, 12v circuit tester.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-A...ter/1000594827
RV's trailer socket was working fine. Ready to hit the road with toad now.
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Old 11-19-2021, 08:55 AM   #5
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For what it is worth: Make things easier for yourself by checking one vehicle at a time.
Also, auto parts store sell a 7 pin tester plug that has LEDs on the back end that light up with the actuation of the individual light components.
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Old 11-19-2021, 09:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D20 View Post
...will show 12 volts when the associated lights are activated on the RV...
I think this is the salient question for the OP: are the associated lights on when he is testing the pins?
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Old 11-19-2021, 12:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomeAR View Post
Got it figured out. Multimeter didn't do it; just needed a simple, 12v circuit tester.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-A...ter/1000594827
RV's trailer socket was working fine. Ready to hit the road with toad now.


Future reference....

If you need to access the wires inside the plug and you don't have the slack to get the cover off, usually the bracket has a cut out on the top allowing you to remove the plug from the bracket
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