Originally Posted by ErnieMiller
Installing it into the hitch mechanism.. I removed the hitch block and saw a space where it appears to go but doesn’t seem to work. I checked and have continuity in wiring to the light.
I’m confused - you “see a space where it’s supposed to go” followed by “but it doesn’t work”.
Ours has 2 wires coming out of the hitch nose. One of those wires (either one) should go to chassis ground. The other should connect to a light in the dashboard. The other side of the light should hook to +12VDC.
The prox is a normally open switch that closes when the ReadyBrake detects a surge. I’m not sure how you can test that - other than putting your coach in park, setting the emergency brake, and blocking the front side of the wheels - then connecting your toad, getting in and putting your toad in forward gear and accelerating to compress the internal force spring of the ReadyBrake (you can have someone stand to the side to watch the lever arm raise up). I wouldn’t do this with the brake cable hooked up, and you need to be very, very careful in following the described process.
I would think the prox will close pretty quickly upon initial compression of the force spring.
To know if the switch is closing - disconnect the grounded lead of the switch. Put a voltmeter between that lead and chassis ground.
With no spring compression, you should read 12VDC (assuming the dash light circuitry and light bulb are good). When the prox changes state, the 12VDC should go away.
You can test the dash light wiring by doing nothing more than disconnecting the prox switch at the hitch connector and jumping across the coach side connections with a short piece of wire. If the dash light lights, the dash wiring is good,
If the prox never changes state, then it’s possible the internal magnet is missing from the ReadyBrute. If so, most any magnet will work to energize the prox.