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Old 10-03-2022, 07:15 AM   #1
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Proximity switch

I need to install the ready brake proximity switch. Not sure how it goes. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 10-03-2022, 07:33 AM   #2
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If your talking about the prox switch that actuates when the ReadyBrake is activated - are you asking about actually installing into the hitch mechanism or wiring it to an indicator light on the dashboard?
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Old 10-04-2022, 06:33 AM   #3
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Installing it into the hitch mechanism.. I removed the hitch block and saw a space where it appears to go but doesn’t seem to work. I checked and have continuity in wiring to the light.
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Old 10-04-2022, 07:42 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by ErnieMiller View Post
Installing it into the hitch mechanism.. I removed the hitch block and saw a space where it appears to go but doesn’t seem to work. I checked and have continuity in wiring to the light.
I’m confused - you “see a space where it’s supposed to go” followed by “but it doesn’t work”.

Ours has 2 wires coming out of the hitch nose. One of those wires (either one) should go to chassis ground. The other should connect to a light in the dashboard. The other side of the light should hook to +12VDC.

The prox is a normally open switch that closes when the ReadyBrake detects a surge. I’m not sure how you can test that - other than putting your coach in park, setting the emergency brake, and blocking the front side of the wheels - then connecting your toad, getting in and putting your toad in forward gear and accelerating to compress the internal force spring of the ReadyBrake (you can have someone stand to the side to watch the lever arm raise up). I wouldn’t do this with the brake cable hooked up, and you need to be very, very careful in following the described process.
I would think the prox will close pretty quickly upon initial compression of the force spring.
To know if the switch is closing - disconnect the grounded lead of the switch. Put a voltmeter between that lead and chassis ground.
With no spring compression, you should read 12VDC (assuming the dash light circuitry and light bulb are good). When the prox changes state, the 12VDC should go away.

You can test the dash light wiring by doing nothing more than disconnecting the prox switch at the hitch connector and jumping across the coach side connections with a short piece of wire. If the dash light lights, the dash wiring is good,

If the prox never changes state, then it’s possible the internal magnet is missing from the ReadyBrute. If so, most any magnet will work to energize the prox.
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Old 10-04-2022, 02:44 PM   #5
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Mr. Mark first off thanks for your patience with my ignorance in the matter. Tested the coach side as you suggested and I get the light. On the hitch side the two wires are hard wired into a plastic peace that fits comfortably into a routed out place on the underside of the hitch block.I get no readings on the hitch side. Did not attempt compression of the brake with tow car as that I fear might damage my tow bar. Once the plastic peace is up in the hitch block the wire extend out to connect to the coach side. But I get nothing when I connect the two together. This is the switch NSA sent. Again thanks for your patience.
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Old 10-04-2022, 04:37 PM   #6
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Well I went to the horses mouth. That is NSA. I did indeed have the proximity switch installed properly.
They suggested I use a pipe for leverage and with switch plugged into coach move the actuator arm clevis. Did just that and light is working properly.
Mr. Mark, thanks again!
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Old 10-05-2022, 08:01 AM   #7
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Any reason why you don’t just use the toad’s brake switch? This would be more accurate to indicate actual braking on the toad. I wired mine using the electric brake (blue) wire back to my dash on the coach. It works great.
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Old 10-05-2022, 08:18 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by ErnieMiller View Post
Well I went to the horses mouth. That is NSA. I did indeed have the proximity switch installed properly.
They suggested I use a pipe for leverage and with switch plugged into coach move the actuator arm clevis. Did just that and light is working properly.
Mr. Mark, thanks again!
Glad you got it figured out!
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