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Old 03-24-2020, 11:07 AM   #15
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As a follow up and while this relates specifically to the Spark, it may be of interest to others. To address the need for toad lights I use magnetic led lights mounted on the rear package tray. I installed two metal electrical junction box covers (about $1/each) to the top of the package shelf using plastic snap push plugs. The lights attach magnetically to these and the wire harness is then routed across the back and front seat, out the passenger door under the right side mirror, under the hood and out the front, across the towbar to the tow vehicle plug. My wife does the install or take down in a couple of minutes. The lights are clearly visible day or night through the rear glass.
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Old 04-06-2020, 05:01 AM   #16
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I disconnect the positive cable and tuck it down beside the battery on my 2018 Spark. It literally takes less than a minute. I keep a spare 10 mm socket on a 1/4" rachet on the driver's floorboard while towing so that I'm never looking for a tool. A single nut has to be removed. You flip back the red plastic cover, undo the nut, and the multi wire connector comes off the battery in one piece. Put the nut back on the post so that you dont lose it.

I used to keep the rachet in the hatch of the Spark but you cant open the hatch with the battery disconnected, at least not on the basic LS model, even with the key.

I have a 2018, even though GM tells you now to disconnect the negative terminal. I also did the positive, since then I found that just putting it in neutral it will tow fine, I just towed it about 1000 miles like that, there is no reason to disconnect the battery at all. But mine doesnít have locking steering.
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Old 04-07-2020, 02:07 PM   #17
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I have a 2018, even though GM tells you now to disconnect the negative terminal. I also did the positive, since then I found that just putting it in neutral it will tow fine, I just towed it about 1000 miles like that, there is no reason to disconnect the battery at all. But mine doesnít have locking steering.
I do the same on my 2017. No problems after towing 2 to 3 thousand miles.
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Old 04-07-2020, 04:31 PM   #18
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I do the same on my 2017. No problems after towing 2 to 3 thousand miles.
Hopefully you can afford to replace the steering system at some point. GM specifically says to disconnect the battery because the ELECTRIC steering on all new GM's is ACTIVE, even when the vehicle is off. You're causing the steering to fight during turns as it is active and designed to center. It would have been nice if there was a fuse to pull to turn it off, but GM won't give up any info.

Do as you please, but that's why GM wants the battery disconnected.
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Old 04-26-2020, 12:25 AM   #19
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There is no locking steering on a spark le. There is nothing actively working with the ignition off. The problem was the ECU would kick in when towing with the acc on. Yes then you would be replacing the steering as you said, thatís why they wanted you to disconnect the negative battery post.
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Old 05-26-2020, 06:35 AM   #20
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There is no locking steering on a spark le. There is nothing actively working with the ignition off. The problem was the ECU would kick in when towing with the acc on. Yes then you would be replacing the steering as you said, thatís why they wanted you to disconnect the negative battery post.
Yes, No steering lock on mine.
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Old 05-27-2020, 05:29 AM   #21
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There is no locking steering on a spark le. There is nothing actively working with the ignition off. The problem was the ECU would kick in when towing with the acc on. Yes then you would be replacing the steering as you said, thatís why they wanted you to disconnect the negative battery post.

You use the designation "LE." Recent models use the Designations "LS" and "LT." That being said, you must have an older model. There are a number of threads on this site that agree with you and others that disagree. Some even document the problems they encountered with their Spark by not disconnecting the battery. Also, the model year of the Spark is also pertinent as GM has modified the vehicle over the years and, consequently, provided different procedures to follow. Whoever is right doesn't matter. Why? Those of us that still have a warranty remaining have to follow the owner's manual or wave goodby to GM honoring that warranty for a related repair. Everyone needs to make their own decision.
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Old 05-29-2020, 04:44 PM   #22
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You use the designation "LE." Recent models use the Designations "LS" and "LT." That being said, you must have an older model. There are a number of threads on this site that agree with you and others that disagree. Some even document the problems they encountered with their Spark by not disconnecting the battery. Also, the model year of the Spark is also pertinent as GM has modified the vehicle over the years and, consequently, provided different procedures to follow. Whoever is right doesn't matter. Why? Those of us that still have a warranty remaining have to follow the owner's manual or wave goodby to GM honoring that warranty for a related repair. Everyone needs to make their own decision.

That was a typo give me a break, as stated my Spark is a 2018, the manual calls to to tow it with the ignition in ACC, then they came out with a bulletin to disconnect the negative battery post. This is only to stop the ECU that was in gaged when you put it in ACC. This is what caused the wheel correction. When you disconnect the neg. it is exactly the same as no key turned on to ACC. This is just cover there a&&. There is no power being supplied anywhere without the key in. If there was power you would always have a dead battery, you donít need to be a genius to figure this out, I was even told this by a GM mechanic, he is proved it to me with a meter. This has nothing to do with the electric steering assist. It only had to do with the EMC being activated with the ignition being I the ACC position.
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Old 05-29-2020, 04:55 PM   #23
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Also can you please direct me to the post that you stated that people created a problem by not disconnecting the neg. post? What I learned was that when I disconnected the positive post, the bouncing down the road ruined the 2 connection that where modular plugs and had to replace them. The cost for me do do that was $175 bucks, lesson learned
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