ReadyBrake on a GMC Canyon/Chev Colorado

[Revconguy]

Has anybody installed a ReadyBrake system on a GMC Canyon? If so, are there any installation issues I should be aware of?

Thanks..

[rjsupersonic]

No I haven't but have used one for years, the main issue is routing an aircraft cable from the brake pedal through the engine compartment to the front bumper area, if you can do that you should be good.

[Revconguy]

Originally Posted by rjsupersonic

No I haven't but have used one for years, the main issue is routing an aircraft cable from the brake pedal through the engine compartment to the front bumper area, if you can do that you should be good.

Thank you. My Canyon is a diesel so the engine compartment is a little busy. I hope I don't have problems.

[Dutch Star Don]

My neighbor installed it on his 2016 GMC Canyon diesel. No special issues, just takes a bit of work and calculating to route the cable to the brake pedal.

[Vato]

Did mine... It's a little tight but not bad.

Remove the left front tire and loosen the plastic wheel well liner so you have access to the firewall area. That will make it much easier to route and secure the cable.

What base plate are you using?

I used the Blue Ox due to my RV is a gasser and the height of the hitch (approx 23") matches the Baseplate connections.

You may consider the Roadmaster baseplate due to you have a DP and likely your hitch is lower than my gasser. The RM utilizes the OEM tow hook mounts

If you use the RM you'll have to make some type of bracket for the front cable mount

For your battery disconnect I use a Perko marine type switch. It is compact medium duty. The Diesel requires higher amp than the gasser. I tried the green knob type but had random issues of non-connection. Roadmaster makes a real nice power solenoid disconnect but after conferring with RM we determined it wasn't rated with a high enough amp for the diesel. It's fine for the gas Canyon

Also recommend a brake activation light for the RV dash. A fairly cheap mechanical works fine if you can fab up your own bracket but Roadmaster has a new laser activated gizmo that attaches to your brake pedal and senses the pedal movement and sends a signal for your light.... very nice

If you have any questions or comments feel free to PM

[Revconguy]

Thank you. It's unfortunate that the cable comes through the firewall behind the wheel liner. That makes it much more difficult than I had hoped. I may have to rethink my brake system.

How does the wheel liner come loose? Does it just unsnap or something?

For the baseplate, I'm using a CURT model along with a CURT Rambler tow bar. That's the only brand my installer uses. Unfortunately, my installer doesn't do brake systems and I'll likely have to install it myself. I was hoping it wouldn't be that difficult and awkward.

[Vato]

Originally Posted by Revconguy

Thank you. It's unfortunate that the cable comes through the firewall behind the wheel liner. That makes it much more difficult than I had hoped. I may have to rethink my brake system.

How does the wheel liner come loose? Does it just unsnap or something?

For the baseplate, I'm using a CURT model along with a CURT Rambler tow bar. That's the only brand my installer uses. Unfortunately, my installer doesn't do brake systems and I'll likely have to install it myself. I was hoping it wouldn't be that difficult and awkward.

It's not necessary to remove the liner but it makes it considerately easier and much less awkward. The liner removal is simple if you have the tools, pretty much the same as this video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQdJ-TJAS5Y

Looks like the Curt is the same as the BlueOx and the connect point may be higher than your RV hitch. You'll have to measure your hitch but generally DP hitches are lower than 23". You may need a drop similar to this to level the towbar to the baseplate connection:
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapt...4aAsyzEALw_wcB

Your installer will be able to measure and determine what you need

There are many brake options available for you. I like the Ready brake for the simplicity.

Since you are not using the Ready brake Elite tow bar (which has the integrated brake actuator) you would have to use the Ready Brake receiver style brake actuator (pic) which frankly in my opinion makes a lot of moving pieces.

I had initially used this receiver brake actuator with a Roadmaster tow bar before. It worked fine but I was not comfortable with all the pieces and eventually went with the ReadyBrake Elite tow bar.

As I said, feel free to pm or even call me if you need clarification on any of this

[Revconguy]

Thank you for your assistance. I viewed the video and it didn't look very difficult. In the video, they removed the front part of the liner and I'll be removing the rear but I presume the process is pretty much the same. I plan to drive the truck up on ramps before I start the install so I can work from below by sliding under with a creeper. Hopefully, that will help me route the cable. I also noted that they were able to remove the front wheel well liner without removing the tire. I hope the same goes for the rear part of the liner.

I would have liked to use the Ready Brake tow bar but my installer only dealt with CURT products. As for the possible alignment issues, I've already ordered a 2" drop/rise hitch adapter just in case I need it. I'll find out after I finish getting my baseplate installed. Again, I appreciate your assistance.