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06-03-2018, 01:06 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 102
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Really Annoying Problem with Dinghy Braking System
Dear Folks:
I love traveling in our Class A Motorhome. After working out all the bugs in the RV, we only have one annoying problem. It involves the dinghy braking system.
We have an Rvibrake2 system. Like many of yours, it has a pneumatic pad that attaches to the brake pedal of the toad. It communicates via RF with a controller mounted in the RV that senses when the RV is braking which sends a signal to the unit in the dinghy that causes it to press the dinghy's brakes. I suspect most of your systems operate in the same way.
Here is my annoying problem. We periodically lose power (just for a second or less) from the RV to the braking system. The 12v is supplied via a cable from the RV to the dinghy, which terminates in a cigarette lighter plug into which the Rvibrake2 is plugged.
The problem is that when the momentary power outage occurs, the Rvibrake 2 needs to be reset (Press the magic button on the unit three times). This means that we have to pull over and go back to the dinghy and go through the reset procedure. It's a pain in the .
It's occurred to me that, if we had a system that didn't need to be reset on powerup, the momentary loss of power wouldn't be a big issue. Does anyone have a braking unit that doesn't need to be reset each time?
I realize the momentary power outage is the product of a loose connection somewhere (likely the cigarette lighter connector, or the connecting cable between the RV and the dinghy, which also powers the dinghy's brake lights and turn signals). However, I've had several RV techs search for the loose connection with no success. They always say it's fixed and then it turns out they haven't fixed it.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
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06-03-2018, 01:26 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 7,469
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https://www.demco-products.com/rv-to...mental-brakes/
I use the Air Force One, no need to reset anything after loss of power. They have other systems as well.
__________________
US Navy Vet, Liberty Tree Member of Oath Keepers, NRA & VFW Life Member, Alaska EMT.
2009 Safari Cheetah 40 SKQ
2009 Winnebago Chalet 231CR
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06-03-2018, 05:18 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 203
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Connect a charge cable from the RV to the toad, then power the brake from the car battery. That way, the brake will never lose power and the coach will keep the car battery from draining.
__________________
2004 Fleetwood Revolution 40D and 2016 Cadillac SRX
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06-03-2018, 05:26 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Western NY
Posts: 6,150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santa_Claus
Connect a charge cable from the RV to the toad, then power the brake from the car battery. That way, the brake will never lose power and the coach will keep the car battery from draining.
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That's the way I use our RVi3 system and never a problem once it's set up.
[emoji106]
__________________
Don & Marge
'13 Newmar Ventana 3433 - '14 CR-V TOAD
'03 Winnebago Adventurer 31Y - SOLD
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06-03-2018, 06:06 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Rendon, Texas
Posts: 1,465
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You might try what Santa Claus said, which is better than spending $$$. Should that fail to solve the problem, you probably need to look at a new brake system. My suggestion is the M&G braking system, which works using the coach air brake system. Everyone has their favorite system, just be sure to do your research.
Good luck in your quest.
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06-03-2018, 10:55 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 354
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Sounds like a loose connection. We use RVI3. No problem whatsoever with a (fused) dedicated 12v plug straight from battery
__________________
Gary, mid-west Georgia. 2017 Sunseeker 3010DS, 2018 GMC Acadia AWD flat (toad)
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06-03-2018, 11:27 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santa_Claus
Connect a charge cable from the RV to the toad, then power the brake from the car battery. That way, the brake will never lose power and the coach will keep the car battery from draining.
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Would this eliminate the need to pull fuses from the toad before towing? It sounds like it would.
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06-03-2018, 11:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieCheryl
Would this eliminate the need to pull fuses from the toad before towing? It sounds like it would.
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Also, why don't they wire the brake system up like this in the first place? I realize you may not know.
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06-03-2018, 11:47 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: AB
Posts: 7,587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieCheryl
Would this eliminate the need to pull fuses from the toad before towing? It sounds like it would.
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That mostly depends on the make/model of your toad.
I tow a Honda CR-V and do not remove any fuses although Honda says it's necessary. Their reason was to reduce battery drain because the OEM battery was undersized to start with.
After upgrading the OEM group 51 battery to a larger group 24F I no longer have dead battery issues or the need to pull fuses.
__________________
2019 Unity LTV CB, pushed by a 2013 Honda CRV, BlueOx Baseplate, Aventa Bar & Patriot Brake
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06-03-2018, 12:10 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45
That mostly depends on the make/model of your toad.
I tow a Honda CR-V and do not remove any fuses although Honda says it's necessary. Their reason was to reduce battery drain because the OEM battery was undersized to start with.
After upgrading the OEM group 51 battery to a larger group 24F I no longer have dead battery issues or the need to pull fuses.
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I'm pretty sure the reason to remove the fuses is to prevent battery discharge, though I'm not certain. By the way, the car is a 2016 Chevy Malibu.
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06-03-2018, 01:26 PM
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#11
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Community Administrator
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 21,568
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If your Chevy has a 12v power plug that is hot with the ignition key off, you don't really need a charging wire. I had an RVI2 in our Jeep for three years and it never ran the battery down, even towing for three days in a row without starting the Jeep. The compressor only runs for a short time when needed and that's after several braking stops. You could easily run a 12v lighter type socket directly from the battery that you could plug into.
__________________
2017 Phaeton 40IH XSH Maroon Coral - Power Glide Chassis with IFS
Previous '15 Tiffin Allegro RED 38QRA and '06 Itasca Sunrise 35A
'16 Jeep JKU Wrangler Sahara or '08 Honda Goldwing
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06-03-2018, 02:16 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 7,469
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Looks like you got a good answer from Santa Claus, but......
Should you decide to buy new the other advantage to SMI Air Force One is nothing to do beyond connecting the toad to the coach. No box to mount/put in and take out each time. AFO is mounted in the engine compartment of the toad, totally out of sight out of mind. Simply Connect the air hose and power cable at the front bumper and away you go.
__________________
US Navy Vet, Liberty Tree Member of Oath Keepers, NRA & VFW Life Member, Alaska EMT.
2009 Safari Cheetah 40 SKQ
2009 Winnebago Chalet 231CR
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06-03-2018, 03:12 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 354
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.... well, was gonna post a picture, but...
__________________
Gary, mid-west Georgia. 2017 Sunseeker 3010DS, 2018 GMC Acadia AWD flat (toad)
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06-03-2018, 10:28 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdennislee
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I see that the Air Force One uses the "air" from the motorhome's braking system. I have a gas motorhome (the typical Ford V10 package) which I believe uses hydraulic brakes, so I assume the Air Force One won't work. Am I correct?
And by the way, everyone, thanks for your responses. I suspect I'll see if I can get a line installed to keep the toad's battery charged, and then hook the Rvibrake 2 to the car's battery.
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