Receiver extension max weight?

[drivintin]

Hey guys, I asked about this on the Palazzo forum before remember this one was here, so forgive me if you are seeing it multiple places.

My RV is a Thor Palazzo 33.3. It has a 10,000 rated hitch. I am going to be pulling a dual axle trailer with an SUV in it. Basically I need to be able to pull 7,000 lbs.

My problem is receiver opening is flush to the back of the RV. So the hitch and ball gets me out about 6 inches. The trailer is a V front end, and from the center of the ball mount to the front of the V is 24 inches. So I assume that means I need to put on a receiver extension to get me some more room to work with in turns and up/down angles.

So how do I do this? When I bought the trailer they knew the weight and what I was doing and gave me 10 inch extension. I looked at it today and it says the grows weight is 3500lbs, so that won't cut it. I look online and the extensions all say they cut the hitch capacity in half, so that is down to 5,000 lbs and won't cut it either.

To make all this even more fun, this is the first time I will be traveling with a trailer. So I have had the RV a year, first time with a trailer, and taking the kids to Disney. So any pointers are HIGHLY appreciated!

[LJowdy]

I have a V nose trailer with a receiver a bit more recessed than the receiver on your rig. I "WON'T" use an extension because I've seen way too many of them break. My trailer is 20' long tandem axle and the whole trailer weighs a bit over 9,000 lbs with about 950 lbs on the tongue. I've never had a problem turning or backing up.

[Mr_D]

Hook up and try a few tight turns in a parking lot and see if you really need an extension.
If you do then check with RoadMaster and see what they make.

[Craig1960]

You should have no problem turning and it would have to be a really good angle for that to be a problem as well.

[drivintin]

Thanks a lot guys! So basically tomorrow I am going to take it out and do some test driving. In my opinion the good thing about if I get in some place tight and get stuck, at least there is an SUV in the trailer that I can pull out and get me out of the situation.

Do you guys use a standard hitch or are you running a WD hitch?

[Craig1960]

Originally Posted by drivintin

Thanks a lot guys! So basically tomorrow I am going to take it out and do some test driving. In my opinion the good thing about if I get in some place tight and get stuck, at least there is an SUV in the trailer that I can pull out and get me out of the situation.

Do you guys use a standard hitch or are you running a WD hitch?

When I hauled my car in the enclosed trailer I always used a WD hitch.

[Mich F]

On your other thread you said you weren't concerned with the the weight. Perhaps you should look into it a little? What is your OCCC from the sticker in your MH ? Do you have any idea how much your loaded up RV weighs ? Your vehicle has a 26,000# GVWR and a 30,000# GCWR, the same specs as many on the F 53 Ford gas Chassis.

[MisterT]

he's right, just because a coach has a 10,000lb hitch, it has nothing to do with how much weight you can actually tow.

not to be a negative, or burst your bubble, but it just doesn't work. If you'll notice, most other coach's with the same platform and even slightly larger hp engines, like the Forest River Legacy, don't provide but a 5,000lb hitch. Don't let the 10,000lb hitch rating fool you.

but, travel, and enjoy, and see if your SUV can be 'toad', instead!
Believe all of us, it will be MUCH easier the more your travel with it this way!

[drivintin]

Yeah I replied to the other thread but the weight is going to be a problem. I thought I could lighten enough to get close with dumping water and some of the other stuff that has been replaced, but I don't think it is going to happen. Sadly the car can't be flat towed, and the RV engine is my weight limiter.

[Mich F]

Originally Posted by drivintin

Yeah I replied to the other thread but the weight is going to be a problem. I thought I could lighten enough to get close with dumping water and some of the other stuff that has been replaced, but I don't think it is going to happen. Sadly the car can't be flat towed, and the RV engine is my weight limiter.

Can your toad be towed 4 wheels down with the installation of a lube pump or drive shaft disconnect, or if neither of those options work, can it be towed on a tow dolly? Towing – Remco
is a good source for that info.

[hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by Mich F

On your other thread you said you weren't concerned with the the weight. Perhaps you should look into it a little? What is your OCCC from the sticker in your MH ? Do you have any idea how much your loaded up RV weighs ? Your vehicle has a 26,000# GVWR and a 30,000# GCWR, the same specs as many on the F 53 Ford gas Chassis.

According to Ford, the 26,000# chassis is only rated to tow 4,000# (and probably a 400# tongue weight limit). Going over a little might not be too bad if you lighten the load in the RV. However, going over by nearly 200% would be a concern for me.

Even flat towing anything but the smallest and lightest SUV could be a problem without the trailer. As others have said, the hitch rating is irrelevant as long as it exceeds the chassis tow rating.

[Crasher]

It would help to know what the limiting factor is for the 26,000/30,000 rating. The longer Palazzos go to 30,000/33,000 with the same Freightliner frame. Is it the tires, axles, brakes, or?????? Why would they put a 10,000# hitch on a coach that could only tow 4,000# if the coach was up to its max? If you knew what the limiting factor was, you might be able to correct it. A WD hitch would help distribute the weight to MH frame and it does increase the towing capacity of pickups and SUVs, but no one has done testing and rating of them on a MH. I used one with a 1500# tongue weight and it stabilized the load. You have to find out what the weak link is. What did they change on the longer ones or did they just up the rating to cover the added weight of the frame and house?

[Mich F]

Originally Posted by hohenwald48

According to Ford, the 26,000# chassis is only rated to tow 4,000# (and probably a 400# tongue weight limit). Going over a little might not be too bad if you lighten the load in the RV. However, going over by nearly 200% would be a concern for me.

Even flat towing anything but the smallest and lightest SUV could be a problem without the trailer. As others have said, the hitch rating is irrelevant as long as it exceeds the chassis tow rating.

The OP's MH is built on a Freightliner chassis. His particular chassis has the same specs as many Ford F53s chassis. His chassis, even though it's a DP, is only rated to tow 4,000#, if he's at the GVWR. Thor decided to put a 10,000# rated hitch on it.

[Mich F]

Duplicate post