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Old 04-20-2021, 08:56 PM   #1
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RoadMaster Even Brake leaking tank

Folks,

We purchased our Even Brake pretty close to 12 years ago. For the last two years it sat unused in our dark, dry, 65 degree basement because we were between campers.

Now I'm trying to get our original toad (2003 CR/V) attached to our new Vista. The compressor brings the pressure to calibrated PSI and the Test completes satisfactorily.

The bad news is that the compressor runs for 10 seconds every minute and a half - forever. I took it out of its hard plastic case, set it on the garage floor beside the toad, plugged it in, and listened to it compress again for 10 seconds every minute and a half. Then I unplugged it and brushed various air connections with soapy water until I found the leak: it's the top circular seam of the air tank.

I was prepared to repair any of the connections, but this is the manufacturers metal-to-metal permanent seam.

I'm considering trying to seal this seam with some sealant/adhesive - don't have anything selected yet. Super glue might work, or silicone adhesive.

I also intend to call RoadMaster technical support again tomorrow. They're pretty darned good and I'm glad they offer their help.

Keith, aka "NumberSix"
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Old 04-20-2021, 09:00 PM   #2
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Here's a pic...

Could have attached this to the original post...
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Old 04-22-2021, 05:21 PM   #3
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RoadMaster tech support

Called RoadMaster tech support. "Benny" said he talked with an engineer, who said that I could probably use JB Weld to seal the air tank leak.
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Old 04-22-2021, 08:31 PM   #4
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I would consider some sort of tank coating applied on the inside, perhaps something like https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49216-...dp/B00B3HXCZ4/ or https://www.amazon.com/Kreem-Product...dp/B0844JF5MD/ Though you will want to check the compatibility with Aluminum (which your tank appears to be)


p.s. this one specifically mentions Aluminum https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Gas-.../dp/B00GA7O7H4
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Old 04-24-2021, 09:33 AM   #5
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Thanks, Isaac-1, that is an excellent idea!

I glooped the top and bottom seams with JB Weld KwikWeld on the exterior two evenings ago, and this morning will be my first opportunity to test that fix. Obviously, if this works I'm done. But if I don't get total happiness I'll be trying your approach. I like that it's an interior solution.
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Old 04-26-2021, 07:19 PM   #6
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I'll go with "this thing is just plain wore out"

Well, the air tank leak is fixed (JB KwikWeld) and all other joints and connections have no detectable leaks, but she still holds for 90 seconds, then recompresses for 10-15 seconds. Then, just for "due dilligence" I turned each NPT device a bunch more (a couple of them with new Teflon tape) and it acts the exact same way (90s/10s).

Then I did some calculations after looking up some info on the Hadley mini air compressor inside the unit. It's nominally a 1/6 horsepower device, which calculates out to approximately 115/90 amps (at 12VDC, of course) - or well less than 2 amps. If it drains the toad's battery at the rate of 2 amps for 10 seconds, and then the RV's alternator charges the toad's battery at the rate of 2 amps for 90 seconds (my "2 amps" figure is about the lowest it would be if the battery even needed a charge at all), then the battery won't discharge totally, and the only remaining concern is the compressor's duty cycle. Its manufacturer (Hadley) only says that if the unit is run continuously for 7 minutes, then it must be allowed to cool for 30 minutes. I can't see how my 10-15s on / 90s off would break that rule - it barely gets warm at the cooling fins on the compressor head.

But IN ANY CASE, I called Roadmaster this morning - I'm gonna trade it in for a new one. If the new one shows up before we depart for the next outing, then the swap (brake, transmitter, receiver) will be 5-10 minutes. If not, then we'll use this 2009 one that uses a bunch more power than it should.

I hope this story helps someone along the way, and gratitude to Roadmaster for their trade-in option.

Keith
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Old 10-30-2021, 09:37 AM   #7
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1hvyhwy

Hi #6. My Old Even Brake does the same thing. If there are no air leaks what does Benny or EB Engineers say is causing the EB to “short cycle”? My guess is the Quick Air Release [Check] Valve is leaking but I just replaced it with a new one I bought from Benny @ EB…but that did not fix this issue.
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Old 11-01-2021, 12:52 PM   #8
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Can you do a check to see if it is leaking back through the compressor? Perhaps check the compressor intake. I wonder if the compressor has a reed valve. I have an EB system and am curious about the outcome here.
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Old 11-28-2021, 04:23 PM   #9
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compressor pressure switch

My guess is that it was leaking back through the compressor's pressure switch, which sits inline between the compressor and the tank (image attached). I mean specifically the Sensata-made PS80-K3-1029 that was used in my model. It is normally closed, but when the tank pressure drops below 80psi, the switch is energized open and simultaneously the compressor is energized on. When the tank pressure again reaches 100psi the switch and compressor are both de-energized again. But whatever is in that switch can't be tested by brushing some soapy water on it so you'd never know.

Guys, I'm sorry I didn't get back to you on this sooner. I've been rather involved in a surgery, but upon introspection it doesn't fully explain my lack of attention to irv2. Apologies.

Keith
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Old 11-29-2021, 09:56 PM   #10
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Check the seal on the filter bowl of the regulator. $50. Google numbers.
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Old 12-01-2021, 02:08 AM   #11
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Turns out the 12VDC Solenoid Valve seat had internal corrosion and was leaking/seeping air pressure back through the Quick Exhaust Valve air line Took it apart and cleaned the seat with WD40 and a very small round wire brush. That worked for a short fix, then it started seeping air again which caused the air compressor to short cycle again. Had to replace the old Solenoid Valve with a HALDEX KN68230 Solenoid Valve as Roadmaster does not have/sell Even Brake 9400 replacement Solenoid Valves. Replacement is a time consuming retrofit but HALDEX is the gold standard for air brake controls and valves and it is (so far) working perfectly. Google HALDEX>FindMyParts to buy for ~$100 delivered.
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Old 12-03-2021, 09:45 AM   #12
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Very bold of you, Bob Kerr! I'm a bit jealous of your "mad skilz", frankly.

Is this Haldex device adjustable to the 100 and 80 psi upper and lower bounds of air pressure that the 9400's original Sensata had naturally? I didn't see it in the specs.

If this continues to work for you, you will have every right to feel really good about your fix. Congrats!

Keith
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