Rookie Towbar Mistake?

[jondrew55]

So I finally have everything put together. Baseplate, brake system, towbar, charge line. Today was the inaugural test run. I have a Blue Ox Alpha towbar by the way.

I hooked up the towbar per the instructions (I think). Drove the mh a little ways to make sure the extension arms were out and locked. First thing I noticed is one of the ram protective rubber boots had pulled off (its held on by a big zip tie). I ended up having to cut the old tie off and put a new one on. It seemed to me the boots were stretched pretty far out. So much so that after a quick around the block ride, the boot on the other side popped off. After re zip tying that one on, I went for a in-town ride and stopped in a home depot parking lot to inspect everything. All seemed well. I then got on the highway and did about a 30 mile ride, stopping about half way to inspect everything.

I got back home, everything looked good. I started disconnecting the tow pins and could not pull them out. I tried fipping the lock levers, but that did nothing. One moved up and down without releasing pressure on that side of the bar, the other arm would not move at all.

I ended up having to disconnect the towbar at the motorhome hitch and pulling the bar out to disconnect it. Nothing seems broken, but it seems like I may be doing something wrong.

Any ideas?

Thanks

[brucemcdou]

Originally Posted by jondrew

I got back home, everything looked good. I started disconnecting the tow pins and could not pull them out. I tried fipping the lock levers, but that did nothing. One moved up and down without releasing pressure on that side of the bar, the other arm would not move at all.

I ended up having to disconnect the towbar at the motorhome hitch and pulling the bar out to disconnect it. Nothing seems broken, but it seems like I may be doing something wrong.

Any ideas?

Thanks

We definitely have that happen if we stop the MH/tow car with the car at an angle, such as if we were pulling into a site at an angle. Seldom happens if the tow car is straight behind when we're stopped and unhooking. On our system, releasing the lock levers will release the pressure on the 'shorter' side but not the 'extended' side. Our set up is the Roadmaster Sterling aluminum All Terrain, towing a 2010 Honda CR-V.

We/I pull out the can of spray silicone or WD40 and squirt the pins and then twist them to get them out. When it happens, I've also learned to grab a microfiber towel ( I keep a bin to clean the windshield, etc.) to protect my hands as I work it out. I still usually get grease on my hands.

[JohnBoyToo]

Is this your first rodeo with towbars, etc.. ?
and is it all new equipment?

ASSuming all the installation is correct...

You were probably in a bind with the towed car if you stopped on any kind of slope or had the towed and rv not "in line"...

next time, get in the towed car and move up or back a bit to see if it releases the tension...
good luck

[jondrew55]

Yes, first one. I was using a tow dolly before. It's entirely possible the car was crooked and on a slight slope. So that probably explains it. Its tough when you dont have another person with you to move one of the vehicles.

Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo

Is this your first rodeo with towbars, etc.. ?
and is it all new equipment?

ASSuming all the installation is correct...

You were probably in a bind with the towed car if you stopped on any kind of slope or had the towed and rv not "in line"...

next time, get in the towed car and move up or back a bit to see if it releases the tension...
good luck

[bokobird]

Originally Posted by jondrew

Yes, first one. I was using a tow dolly before. It's entirely possible the car was crooked and on a slight slope. So that probably explains it. Its tough when you dont have another person with you to move one of the vehicles.

If you're solo, you'll get used to it and as anything else, practice makes perfect...

I find being straight on flat helps a whole lot. And don't forget to put the car in Park before unhooking things!

[avid_dk]

and set the emergency brakes on both vehicles. I think slight movements after stopping contributes to binds.

[Spk64]

Just turning the steering wheel will loosen to release latches or pins. If too tight then move put towed vehicle in gear drive slightly forward or reverse then neutral to relax.
As others stated the flatter and straightness helps

[Bobb.25]

I also had that problem with the Blue Ox tow pins. It was worse when they were new and has slowly gotten better with time. Also, when i contacted BlueOx for ideas they said to set the parking brake on the car, and turn the steering wheel all the way to one side. That will usually take the pressure off of one of the two pins, Then repeat the procedure the other direction for the other pin.
Good Luck
Bob

[Waiter21]

It sounds like the arm where the lever could move was extended all the way and the arm that the lever couldn't move was in compression. i.e. you were in a turn.

When solo, I can usually get one side to pop loose by turning the steering wheel all the way one one direction or the other. This usually wiggles the toads font end enough to take the pressure off one side or the other

I always disconnect the safety cables last, just in case the toad wants to take a little trip on its own when I pull the pins..

Use extreme caution if you need to pop the hitch off to make sure the toad doesn't roll forward and crush you or your hands, etc...

[TonyMac]

I had one of those "never binds" towbars, and took it back. It should have said "Never doesn't bind". You had to be straight and flat and it had to be Sunday, or the thing would bind one arm or both. JUNK. If it has to be straight and flat, my 1990 Blue Ox toad-mounted towbar worked just fine, so that's what I went back too. If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by brucemcdou

We definitely have that happen if we stop the MH/tow car with the car at an angle, such as if we were pulling into a site at an angle. Seldom happens if the tow car is straight behind when we're stopped and unhooking. On our system, releasing the lock levers will release the pressure on the 'shorter' side but not the 'extended' side. Our set up is the Roadmaster Sterling aluminum All Terrain, towing a 2010 Honda CR-V.

We/I pull out the can of spray silicone or WD40 and squirt the pins and then twist them to get them out. When it happens, I've also learned to grab a microfiber towel ( I keep a bin to clean the windshield, etc.) to protect my hands as I work it out. I still usually get grease on my hands.

Do not spray WD40 on RoadMaster arms, it causes the bushings to swell and become hard to move. Lube only with dry silicone spray. I had to have my Sterling rebuilt because I was using WD40 to clean it.
I just got the new NightHawk bar and really like it.

[avid_dk]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

Do not spray WD40 on RoadMaster arms, it causes the bushings to swell and become hard to move. Lube only with dry silicone spray. I had to have my Sterling rebuilt because I was using WD40 to clean it.
I just got the new NightHawk bar and really like it.

Thanks for this info. I just lubed the joints on my Falcon All Terrain with All In One dry lube. The damn thing turned into a noodle it is so easy to work with now. Was wondering what to do with the arms.

[computerguy]

Main reason I went with the Blue Ox Avail. It doesn't bind. Well, I've had it for a year and usually doesn't bind. Only once in that year did I have a problem. I was on a hill in a decently sharp turn. I am solo so it is hard to try and adjust but I was able to after a little bit of futzing, moving forward with the car a smidgen and relieving the pressure.
But that is not bad considering all the problems others experience with the "binding" tow bars. Def go with a non-binding one.

[tmw188]

Be sure you don't forget to put your towed car in park also if it hasn't been mentioned.