SMI Air Force One install.

[Iwillbeit]

Originally Posted by jondrew

Nice job.

I bought my CRV intending to go from a dolly to 4-down until I realized what a big deal supplemental braking systems were. There seems to be a bunch of half baked systems out there, but I like the AF1 the best. But it looks like a nightmare installing the master cylinder portion of the system. Anyone here installed one on a late model CRV?

Made a bracket to mount it. I could not find anywhere and I didn't feel right mounting it on the motor. This worked out very well.



Randy W

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

One thing I like to do different than the instructions, is change the screw they use to hold the cylinder down in the car floorboard. There is a fair amount of pull on that screw and wire. I through bolt mine with a large washer on the underside. It takes two people, but makes for a better install.

I think I understand what you did. But your reason I don't agree with, respectfully of course. I have mine mounted at the instruction said to do and I am having no problems. In truth, I thought the wire rope was a bit light for the job but it seems my misgivings were also wrong. SMI did a good job of designing and engineering the breaking cylinder. One of the things I liked about their firewall attaching method is the ability to adjust the tension of the wire rope to give the correct amount of slack. That reminds me. I need to check the tension to see if the rope has slackened any. Thanks for bringing this topic up.

Rick Y

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Iwillbeit

Made a bracket to mount it. I could not find anywhere and I didn't feel right mounting it on the motor. This worked out very well.
Attachment 116067Attachment 116068Attachment 116069


Randy W

Nice job, Randy. My only concern for you is heat from the exhaust manifold. That could become significant in heavy traffic on a hot summer day. Do you have a heat shield under the module? I thought this was worth a mention.

In my case, I think I am safe. The cover I mounted the unit to is the plastic ignitor module cover. The heat is limited there.

Many happy and safe trails,

Rick Y

[Dutch Star Don]

Rick, no problem, I'm not offended. I just saw it as an issue. It also depends on how stout your floorboards are. I think the sheet metal screw is for ease of install. One guy can screw it in. Mine takes two people to hold the nut under the car, while I tighten the bolt.

On my Dodge Dakota, finding a place to mount the first generation box was difficult. The first generation also came with a large separate aluminum reserve tank for the break away system. I had to mount that in the hollow of the bumper on the Dakota. I later put the system on a Nissan Frontier, also a tight fit. The last install was on my Silverado with the new smaller components.....it was a breeze.

[Iwillbeit]

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Nice job, Randy. My only concern for you is heat from the exhaust manifold. That could become significant in heavy traffic on a hot summer day. Do you have a heat shield under the module? I thought this was worth a mention.

In my case, I think I am safe. The cover I mounted the unit to is the plastic ignitor module cover. The heat is limited there.

Many happy and safe trails,

Rick Y

Rick,

That's not the exhaust manifold you see under the area where the unit is mounted, it's the intake and throttle body which have a hard plastic shield over it. The exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the motor (firewall side). The unit is mounted considerably high off the intake and motor. It's actually the coolest place I could find. I stayed away from mounting it on the motor because of the heat. Mounting on top of the motor is actually closer to the exhaust manifold.


Randy W

[Pigman1]

I agree, an outstanding system and an outstanding company. I installed mine in a CG in Valdez, AK after my Blue Ox box failed for the third time. We've since moved it to two additional class A's when we traded up and still love the system. Commenting on the service: Had a failure where a small C clip on the brake pedal activating cylinder popped off and was lost. I made a temp repair with a twist of copper wire and contacted the company. They had a tech heading to Quartzsite who arranged to meet me along side the road in Tucson and swapped out the cylinder for me in about 5 minutes. No charge. In a second problem, the pull cable on the activation cylinder was cut by the sharp edges of the fastening link that held it to the fire wall. I made a temp repair until I got home, called them and sent the cylinder to them for repair. I got it back in a WEEK with a total cost of less than $35, including shipping. I understand they've since chamfered the lug.

We've run this exact same system through three class A's and two toads. Probably close to 160,000 tow miles and it works as good today as when I bought it.

I put a red LED on the coach dash board that has one leg going to ground and the second back to the toad through the trailer brake activation wire pre-wired by the coach manufacturer that shows AF1 activation. Works good and the only real wiring I had to do was the usual on the toad.

These guys are great people with a product that is head and shoulders over anything on the market. It don't get better than that!

[DAJO]

Dutch Star Don said
Mine takes two people to hold the nut under the car, while I tighten the bolt.


That must be a big nut. Just could not resist.

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Iwillbeit

Rick,

That's not the exhaust manifold you see under the area where the unit is mounted, it's the intake and throttle body which have a hard plastic shield over it. The exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the motor (firewall side). The unit is mounted considerably high off the intake and motor. It's actually the coolest place I could find. I stayed away from mounting it on the motor because of the heat. Mounting on top of the motor is actually closer to the exhaust manifold. Attachment 116152


Randy W

Thanks for the correction, Randy. What you did makes perfect sense now. In my case I had little choice. The engine compartment is packed tight. Where I put the box is not only the coolest place for it, it is the only place I could find. So far so good. No problems.

The best thing I like about this system is not having to deal with that big, bulky break controller that so many other systems use. This system is clean and simple to use. Unhook the nose, operate the Aux fuse device and off you go. Nice way to prepare for your stay.

Happy trails,

Rick Y

[Iwillbeit]

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Thanks for the correction, Randy. What you did makes perfect sense now. In my case I had little choice. The engine compartment is packed tight. Where I put the box is not only the coolest place for it, it is the only place I could find. So far so good. No problems.

The best thing I like about this system is not having to deal with that big, bulky break controller that so many other systems use. This system is clean and simple to use. Unhook the nose, operate the Aux fuse device and off you go. Nice way to prepare for your stay.

Happy trails,

Rick Y

I agree my friend and it's nice when you are coming down a long mountain grade using the engine brake knowing that you are not burning up the brakes on the toad. 😊


Randy W

[gnlandrus]

One question for you folks that tow a Ford F-150. After I put it in tow mode, do I turn the key to the off position with the steering wheel unlocked and the electronics off, or leave it in the "on" position with all the electronics on ??
Can't find the answer and I have looked ....
Thanks,
Greg

[August West]

Originally Posted by gnlandrus

One question for you folks that tow a Ford F-150. After I put it in tow mode, do I turn the key to the off position with the steering wheel unlocked and the electronics off, or leave it in the "on" position with all the electronics on ??
Can't find the answer and I have looked ....
Thanks,
Greg

Greg, the manual in my '12 f150 says (page 276) after you follow all steps to the transfer case and transmission,(step 6) turn the key all the way towards the off position. It will not rotate completely to off with the trans in neutral. the key must me left in the ignition while towing. use keyless entry keypad or extra set of keys to lock vehicle while towing.

Disclaimer: I have never towed this truck so I have not done these steps. Just looked it up since I have an F150

Hope that helps

[gnlandrus]

Thank you !!
I don't have a manual but guess I better order one.



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[gnlandrus]

I think I will also get a non chip key to leave in place while towing like one of the other posters recommend.
Thanks to all !
Greg


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