Community Forums

Ken Lenger · 11-04-2008, 06:10 PM

I got to wondering if I could locate the control box for the SMI Stay-In-Play in the motor home. If so, it would allow me to turn it off and more importantly ON from the MH. I couild also adjust the sensivity. In looking at the wiring diagram, I can get the ground and brake light signal from the MH no problem. That leaves the red and black wires to connect between the MH and the toad. Assuming one of them is the brake control signal, I could use the pin on the MH 7 pin traiiler connector used for trailer brakes for that. What is the other wire for? If it's simply +12 VDC, I could get that from the MH too. The final factor would be the current draw on the wires and the wire gauge from the cockpit of the MH to the trailer tow connector.

Ken Lenger · 11-04-2008, 06:10 PM

I got to wondering if I could locate the control box for the SMI Stay-In-Play in the motor home. If so, it would allow me to turn it off and more importantly ON from the MH. I couild also adjust the sensivity. In looking at the wiring diagram, I can get the ground and brake light signal from the MH no problem. That leaves the red and black wires to connect between the MH and the toad. Assuming one of them is the brake control signal, I could use the pin on the MH 7 pin traiiler connector used for trailer brakes for that. What is the other wire for? If it's simply +12 VDC, I could get that from the MH too. The final factor would be the current draw on the wires and the wire gauge from the cockpit of the MH to the trailer tow connector.

DriVer · 11-04-2008, 06:39 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ken Lenger:
I got to wondering if I could locate the control box for the SMI Stay-In-Play in the motor home. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Ken,

You need to review the basic operational requirements for the SMI S&P. Vacuum is required in the brake booster of the car and pressure is also required at the brake application cylinder. I don't believe that you are going to be able to accomplish that task or want to explore how to accomplish this remotely.

If you opt for the SMI DUO you can install the box under the hood of the car and forget about it.

Ken Lenger · 11-05-2008, 02:49 AM

I have already installed the system in the CRV. I only want to move the control unit with the inertial sensor and on/off switch to the MH. The box with the pump will stay in the car.

Here are the pics

DriVer · 11-05-2008, 05:11 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ken Lenger:
I have already installed the system in the CRV. I only want to move the control unit with the inertial sensor and on/off switch to the MH. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Like Artie Johnson would have said, "Very Interesting ....

I believe that Peter wants to measure and apply the resultant output from the G-Force Controller when it's installed in the towed vehicle and not the tow vehicle. I believe that the forces are going to be different.

Having the capability to remotely set the gain might have some redeeming value if you feel that the gain is too aggressive or not aggressive enough.

Turning the unit on and off remotely is of little value to me because if the system is not armed by stepping on the brake pedal the unit is essentially dead.

Cruzer · 11-06-2008, 06:38 AM

I recently installed one of these in my brother-in-law's Allegro and Chevy pickup. While it might be possible to move the G-Force control unit to the coach, it requires 4 wires to connect it to the main unit under the toad's hood. That would complicate things because you would need to add a second umbilical cord between the RV and toad.

The second thing is the fact that it's not sensing the toad's inertia because it's mounted in the RV. I don't think you'd have very accurate control over the toad braking forces with that method.

Also, I'm not positive, but I don't believe that your toad breakaway feature would function if it came loose because in effect the "switch" would be "off" the minute it disconnected.

Really, the S-I-P unit doesn't require much fiddling. Once it's set up, it's good to go. The only real benefit to going through all this work is a bit more footroom in the toad.

tpm64 · 11-06-2008, 08:42 AM

I really like this idea. The only thing I did not like about my installation is the need set the sensitivity from the towed.

I can say - as a mechanical engineer - that the decelerations have to be the same in the towed and the MH. There is a rigid connection (the tow bar) between the two. The only scenerio I can think of would be a jacknife situation where the front of the MH would be seeing a HIGHER deceleration than the towed.

I have to think about this change for my installation.

Ken Lenger · 11-06-2008, 10:03 AM

At most, only two wires need to make the connection between the toad and the MH because power and ground are both existing. One reason for wanting to do this is to be able to turn on the brake system from the MH. I have forgotten to turn it on, only to have to stop and get out of the MH to turn it on. I agree that the accelletation forces would be the same, especially given the non-precision of the system. Just brainstorming. I'd really like to hear from SMI to know what the functions of the two wires are. The brakeaway switch is not an issue. The brakeaway activation of the system is independent of the control unit.