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Old 09-02-2018, 10:37 AM   #1
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Toad not easy

So.. we bought a new MH and got rid of the truck and 5th wheel. Figured that it would be easy enough to buy a used Nissan P/U to pull behind... yeah, they are available everywhere.. HOWEVER... I was shocked to find out how much it will cost to get it setup to pull one Flat! I've been burning up the web reading about it, and I figure that it will cost $2-3K to get a little P/U (manual Xmission) ready to pull. More if I get a Auto Xmission.

I need to use a small P/U because I have not been without a P/U for about 50 yrs... and can't Imagine how I would get "Stuff" home from the Home Depot and such.

This leads me to the alternate method of using a Dolly. It seems like a much cheaper way to go, but also leaves you with a dolly to deal with.

I would sure appreciate some feedback on my dilemma.
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Old 09-02-2018, 10:54 AM   #2
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There’s also the GM Colorado that’s towable. We tow a full size truck, but that’s probably too much weight for your coach.

A dolly won’t help with a RWD vehicle. And they’re a PITA. Spend the money to flat tow, you won’t regret it.
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Old 09-02-2018, 10:55 AM   #3
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If you do the work yourself, the cist should be about $1,200-$1,500. Roadmaster’s directions are great. To install base plates takes about 4 hours depending on your vehicle. I tow a Chevy Equinox. It took me the better part of another day to wire the tail lights. Roadmaster also sells a power module to mount in the rear of the towed vehicle. The wires in the new vehicles are so small a gauge that it becomes difficult to wire. I used diodes and the power module to wire the brake and tail lights.
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Old 09-02-2018, 05:39 PM   #4
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OK.. been doing more reading and it looks like flat towing is the way to go. It looks like getting the Drive Line disconnect will allow me to tow most small trucks.... Whew! This is going to get expensive.
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Old 09-02-2018, 05:45 PM   #5
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Look at small 4X4s , most; if not all ; flat tow without a disconnect only need the transfer case in neutral .
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Old 09-02-2018, 06:19 PM   #6
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Stick with your original thought on a stick shift Nissan. Drive shaft disconnect is a poor investment, for that cost you can upgrade the truck that needs it to a 4x4 that does not.
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Old 09-02-2018, 07:17 PM   #7
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TNX for the advice. I found a 2004 Chevy Colorado 4x4 manual shift. It looks nice, but has a LOT of mi on it.... 184K! Also not too sure about the 5 cyl engine. Also found a 2004 Nissan 2 WD manual that looks pretty good. 145K mi. I may have to just bit the bullet and spend more for a much newer small truck, just hate to put a lot of money into something that will not be use very much.

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Old 09-02-2018, 07:26 PM   #8
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I bought an old U-haul dolly to tow my wife's '98 Chevy Tracker 4x4. Had automatic locking front locking hubs and owners manual said to tow with the front on the ground. Did this and still had the hubs lock a couple of times so changed them out for manual hubs. Still tow with the front on the ground so have no driveshaft turning going down the road.
This solution may not work for a small pickup unless it has a short bed and a long tongue on the dolly.
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Old 09-02-2018, 07:28 PM   #9
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Sorry I have added a baseplate to three AWD SUVs at about $1k each. Install was about $500 each. You should to pick a vehicle that is towable four down without driveline changes. I like KISS.
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:27 AM   #10
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Don't forget you will also need an auxiliary break system for your Toad (towed vehicle). This will also add cost.
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Old 09-03-2018, 07:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snakebite476 View Post
TNX for the advice. I found a 2004 Chevy Colorado 4x4 manual shift. It looks nice, but has a LOT of mi on it.... 184K! Also not too sure about the 5 cyl engine. Also found a 2004 Nissan 2 WD manual that looks pretty good. 145K mi. I may have to just bit the bullet and spend more for a much newer small truck, just hate to put a lot of money into something that will not be use very much.



sb


I had an ‘04 Colorado with the 5 cyl. Mine was auto w/ 4x4. Great little truck. Wish I didn’t sell it, but the brother-in-law wanted it![emoji849]

Good advice here. I tow either a stick shift New Beetle or a Jeep Grand Cherokee with a Roadmaster tow bar and RVii break setup. The Beetle toes like a dream, but the GC off-roads better. (Beetle has a 3” lift and bigger off-road tires[emoji12]).
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Old 09-03-2018, 07:55 AM   #12
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You've forgotten the third option. A trailer to tow with all four up.

I currently tow a Jeep 4 down. I have towed with a tow dolly on different cars and I have towed with a trailer. They all have their merit.

Four down and tow dollies, because the do some steering on their own, tend to wander around a bit and push the rear of you MN side to side. Not much, but enough that you can tell it is back there. The trailer with its 2 axles does not. The trailer pulls like a dream!

Depending on your use model a trailer may be your best option. I wish I had a trailer!
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Old 09-03-2018, 11:57 AM   #13
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First of all, an automatic doesn't cost any more to tow than a stick. You need a towbar & baseplates, brake system, and light wiring harness in either case. There is nothing extra for an automatic unless it is not 4-down towable to begin with. Same thing applies to a stick - if its not 4-down towable from the factory, you need to spend $$ to make it that way.


You need to be looking at pick-ups that are 4-down towable, and that usually means a 4WD model (with a manual transfer case). Won't make any difference if automatic - it's still towable. Check the dinghy tow guides for those models: Downloadable Dinghy Guides | MotorHome Magazine
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Old 09-03-2018, 12:07 PM   #14
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I just had a tow package installed on an Equinox. Baseplate, wiring, tow bar, braking system cost right around $4000 for everything. Check the classifieds on this forum. You may find someone who is selling a vehicle that has the tow package installed.
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