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Old 04-16-2019, 07:58 AM   #29
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Thanks for the thread! I have only towed my Honda Fit about 5 miles to test my install. In a month, we leave for 8k miles!!! I am on edge and can't wait for it to feel "normal" and develop some trust in the system.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:05 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ventana LE View Post
Here’s my experience with the first toad drive. Pulling onto the highway I achieved entry speed while still in the entrance ramp. I was constantly glancing at the camera to verify all was good with the toad. After satisfying myself that the lane was clear I signaled my intention to merge and glanced once more at the camera. My heart stopped as the toad was no longer there. I forgot that when using turn signals the camera view changes. I now know that my heart is sound!
I sometimes wonder if it wouldn't be safer to keep the camera on rear view and rely more on my mirrors. There's a time lag on my system and often when the side view image comes up there is enough glare to make it hard to see, so I wind up using my mirror anyway. The rear view would show me if somebody is sneaking into my planned spot in the next lane.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:25 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Dark Sky View Post
I sometimes wonder if it wouldn't be safer to keep the camera on rear view and rely more on my mirrors. There's a time lag on my system and often when the side view image comes up there is enough glare to make it hard to see, so I wind up using my mirror anyway. The rear view would show me if somebody is sneaking into my planned spot in the next lane.
Check your camera settings
On mine the delay time is adjustable and I made it shorter and like it better that way
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:32 AM   #32
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I'll try it, thanks!
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:44 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by AKIQPilot View Post
Absolutely great advice.

After I complete the hookup my wife does the inside jeep stuff. Then I have her check over the hook up. I check the inside of the Wrangler to make sure the TCase is in neutral, the Trans is in park and the key is off. I confirm the steering wheel is not locked. I pull the key and lock the doors.

If you dont already have D handled hitch pins you should really consider buying some. Under $20 for the pair. Made in the USA. Super tough steel. Much easier to install and remove than the stock pins.

I also use 2 bungees between the hitch pins to hold them in place. This is just in case the lynch pins somehow snap open and fall out.

The other nice thing about the D handled hitch pins is they can not twist in place. The handle hits my bumper and doesn’t allow but a small amount of twisting. This is good because the lynch pins are always put in from the top and makes them much less likely to fall out in the rare occasion that they may snap open.

Attachment 241780Attachment 241781

PS. Just to reiterate, do not get distracted by another camper, your dog, your DW, a pretty girl walking buy, etc. If you get distracted start over from the beginning and check to make sure you’ve done everything correctly. Im not saying to unhook your hitch pins, just saying to pretend you are at the beginning of the procedure and go through every step again to make sure you didn’t miss something while being distracted.
Good post but, unless I'm looking at it wrong, your break-away brake cable (red cable on right hand side of photo) looks like it's a bit too tight. My understanding is that it should have some slack in it to avoid accidental activation.
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:22 PM   #34
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I agree that the breakaway cable looks a little snug. I also wrap the safety cables around the tow bar arms and cross them under the MH hitch. The reason is that if something comes unhitched, the crossed and wrapped cables will support towbar.
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Old 04-21-2019, 02:48 PM   #35
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I fully endorse all the comments made here --- especially the ones about NEVER talk to someone when hooking up and if someone comes up make sure you go back to the start and start over ---- from some expensive experience --- my neighbor came over one trip when I was hooking up and talked the entire time --- what did I forget ---- to take the manual shift car out of reverse --- cost of that mistake -- one new engine for the car. Also a good idea to have the wife outside by the car when you roll forward after hookup to make sure all four wheels are rolling when you move the coach.
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Old 04-21-2019, 02:54 PM   #36
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Follow vehicle instructions - I think the KEY must be on for the steeringwheel to turn freely. Make sure the drive line is free wheeling some are electronic some need to be manually put in neutral. Make sure you're properly connected with working read barake lights etc on the toad. Proper tire inflation on both vehicles. Make a check list and PHYSICALLY make check marks that you have inspected or accomplished every task.

TOWING TRIP CHECKLIST Tow Vehicle
 Coolant level
 Should be clear and color should match factory specified coolant (typically
green, orange or red) with no brown discoloration
 If level is low, top off with distilled water or 50/50 mix of distilled water
and coolant to match factory specifications
 Oil level and condition
 Should be golden to light brown in color, no dark brown discoloration or
“burnt” smell
 Automatic transmission fluid (if applicable) level and condition  Should be red in color, no brown discoloration or “burnt” smell  Check level according to procedure noted in owners’ manual
 Gear oil level in front/rear differentials (if applicable)
 Check level according to procedure noted in owners’ manual
 Brake fluid
 Should be clear to golden in color, no dark brown discoloration
 Chassis lubed
 Includes ball joints, u-joints, CV joints, and bushings
 Belts (Serpentine or V-Belt)
 No cracks, glazing, or fraying
 Brakes
 Good pad depth, no cracks or grooves in rotors or drums  Firm brake pedal (no soft or “mushy” feel)
 Smooth stop with no vibration
 Transmission
 Smooth shifting with no jerking or slipping (automatic)
 No grinding or difficulty engaging/disengaging clutch (manual)
 Electrical
 Voltage at battery approx. 12-12.5V with key off, 13-14.5V while vehicle
running
 All gauges indicating proper function
 Lighting
 Headlights, taillights, parking/marker lights, reverse lights, turn signals,
and any clearance lights are clear and illuminated
 Hitch
 All hitch mounting hardware is present and torqued properly
 Ball securely mounted to draw bar (tag along) and lightly greased
 Ball securely mounted to hitch (gooseneck) and lightly greased
 Hitch firmly attached to rails (fifth wheel) and plate greased
 Tires
 Good tread depth over 5/32” (use an upside-down penny to check)
 No damage to side-walls or tread of tires (punctures, bulges, dry-rot, no
cords or metal showing)
 Tires inflated to manufacturer’s recommended pressure
Is TMS working?
 Safety
 Horn loud and clear
 Mirrors properly adjusted, trailer visible

TOAD
 Tires
 Tires inflated to manufacturers’ recommended pressure
 No damage to side-walls or tread of tires (punctures, bulges, dry-rot, no
cords or metal showing)
 Good tread depth over 5/32” (use an upside-down penny to check)
 Brakes
 SAFETY CHAINS
 No play in wheel when wiggled, spins freely
 Brakes actuate properly when test button is depressed on brake
controller (if applicable)
 Lighting
 All clearance lights, taillights, brake lights, and license plate light
illuminate properly and are visible
 PINS LOCKED on tow bar
 Pproperly secured to the tongue, welds okay and
bolts tight
 Breakaway battery is charged and switch functions properly, cable is free
from rust or kinks that could cause breakage/snags
 Coupler securely latches and locks onto ball, passes “lift” test
 Trailer electrical connection (4/6/7 pin) is clean with no corrosion, pins
and wiring undamaged, coated with a light layer of dielectric grease for
maximum corrosion resistance
 Safety chains free from bends/rust/weak chain links, spring clips close
positively (if applicable)
 Safety/Security
 All locks/latches operate properly and hold doors/windows closed
 Coupler pin stored with trailer to lock coupler when attached to tow
vehicle
 Coupler lock for hitch when trailer is left unattended
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Old 04-21-2019, 02:55 PM   #37
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Just the thread I needed we head out in a week in our 36 ft MH and it will be my first trip with a toad
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Old 04-21-2019, 03:04 PM   #38
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Checklist

Make yourself a checklist for attaching the toad.

Enjoy!
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Old 04-21-2019, 03:09 PM   #39
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Double check everything and drive it like you stole it lol!
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Old 04-21-2019, 03:23 PM   #40
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Double check everything and drive it like you stole it lol!
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Old 04-21-2019, 03:23 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCam View Post
Good post but, unless I'm looking at it wrong, your break-away brake cable (red cable on right hand side of photo) looks like it's a bit too tight. My understanding is that it should have some slack in it to avoid accidental activation.


Here is a little better picture. There is plenty of slack in the cable. You can see the two relaxed carabiners on the Jeep end of the cable and there is a completely relaxed carabiner on the motorhome end of the cable.

Click image for larger version

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Old 04-21-2019, 03:35 PM   #42
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I find that an interesting picture. That's a cable brake actuator right? Just amazing how far behind the coach the towd is, and the hitch pivot. More zig zag potential imo.
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