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Old 05-24-2023, 03:55 PM   #15
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See post 4, I think the OP has a solution to get him level
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Old 05-24-2023, 08:26 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by USMCRET View Post
Thatís an interesting solution, Don. I like it, but how do you know your tow capacity is preserved with that arrangement? I know little to nothing about how the ratings are derived.
A good hitch shop will not have an issue making it strong enough. They welded the ends of the receivers together and then plated both sides with about a 6" x 6" plate. We towed a 4 door Silverado for many years with that set up.

I pulled my coach out today for a trip and looked at mine. There IS space on the top of my DS hitch to add another receiver.

The reason I did that years ago, I hated adding another hitch component that rattled and moved and extended the assembly further back. On mine it was added underneath to lower the assembly without increasing the chance it would drag.
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Old 05-25-2023, 11:51 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post

Off topic but Don we have one thing in common lol. Keeps me from gouging pavement when I pull in my driveway.
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2002 American Tradition 40'
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Old 05-25-2023, 02:40 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
"Pole-vaulting" is a risk when the toad is high compared to the coach receiver. The toad tries to climb over the tow bar and literally gets vaulted upwards. Low, not so much because the toad dives under on a hard stop.

As a practical matter, I might not worry much about being an extra 1.5" low, but a 2" or 3" drop receiver isn't expensive or tough to use either. You decide the risk.

My bad! I misread the original to say the coach was 4.5" high, but it's the toad that is high. Prime candidate for that "pole vault", in my opinion.
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Old 05-26-2023, 09:15 AM   #19
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The only time you will be level is on level pavement and not moving. How often is that during travel?
Get it within or as close as possible to manufacturers suggestions with the least amount of connections and least amount of pieces. Each you add is one more failure point.
Every dip, bump, turn in the road takes it out of level. Heck even the crown in the road puts more stress on one side of the bar or the other.
Take the case of an emergency stop. How much is the front end of one MH going to dip compared to another? How much is the back end going to rise? How quick will the air bags deflate/inflate to compensate if it has air bags? How much distance between the MH rear axle to the toad front axel?
Too many variables for a manufacture to give a set in stone measurement. They are guidelines that cover a multitude of setups and yours might not have even been considered.
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Old 05-26-2023, 10:01 AM   #20
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Put brakes on the toad, like it should have, no more pole vaulting.

See how simple the fix is.
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