Tow bar not level

[USMCRET]

Blue Ox says the height differential between the towbar’s attachment points between the motorhome and the toad should not exceed 3” up or down.

If the toad is 4.5” higher, what is the risk?

[MRichaud]

Think pole vaulting. You don't want the toad jumping up your backside in a panic stop! I believe I'd invest in a drop/raise hitch - 4", or at least 2".

[Berryfarmer]

I see your toad is a Winnebago ERA. The tow bar height difference is compounded (think multiplied) by vehicles with more mass. If you were towing a 3000 pound car with the same difference you would be far less likely to experience the catastrophic consequences. I don’t know the math, but every inch out of level is multiplied by the weight of the toad. As suggested a drop/rise hitch will help, but keep in mind the effect on the hitch receiver as you are changing the leverage point. It’s not as crucial for flat towing because the tongue weight is very low compared to a trailers tongue weight, but it is there.

[USMCRET]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

What I’m trying to do is preserve as much of my rated towing capacity as possible to provide a larger cushion between the toad’s actual weight and the tow rating of the motorhome.

What I have now is a motorhome rated to tow 15K lbs and a toad whose dry weight is listed as 8,933 lbs. I weighed it yesterday with 1/2 tank of fuel at 9,075 lbs.

I have a tow bar rated at 15K lbs, but it has a 2.5” shank. Motorhome receiver is 2”. To get from 2.5” to 2”, I have an adjustable raise/drop hitch and adapter. The adapter and drop hitch have only a 10K lbs rating.

Here’s the rub: Blue Ox has an optional 2” shank for the tow bar that drops the tow rating to 12.5K lbs. I like that, but it would have to go straight into the motorhome’s receiver, which creates the dilemma of the toad being too high.

Whether I should be or not, I’m a little concerned about pulling 9100 lbs on a 10K lbs setup. Should I be?

[ChrisDParise]

Originally Posted by USMCRET

Thanks for the replies, guys.



Whether I should be or not, I’m a little concerned about pulling 9100 lbs on a 10K lbs setup. Should I be?

As long as you're following the parameters and limits of the towing equipment and setup I don't think there's reason to be concerned - you are under the weight rating of BO by about 9%

[USMCRET]

Originally Posted by ChrisDParise

As long as you're following the parameters and limits of the towing equipment and setup I don't think there's reason to be concerned - you are under the weight rating of BO by about 9%

Thanks Chris. Half of my brain is thinking that. The other half is being obstinate.

[ChrisDParise]

Originally Posted by USMCRET

Thanks Chris. Half of my brain is thinking that. The other half is being obstinate.

I know where your concern is coming from.

I felt compelled to upgrade (and I did) my 5,000 lb hitch because my toad weighs in consistently at 5,130 on the Cat Scales.

Manuufacturer base curb weight was 4,850 at my trim level. Needless to say, I am wary now of mfr base curb weights.

Enjoy it without concern.

[Rob_M]

If your braking system is working perfectly it will put very little stress on your components even in a panic stop. BUT I would want my tow bar as flat as possible anyway because stuff happens.
And when flat it puts less stress on components when driving over pavement transitions like entering a parking lot or over a huge speed bump.

[TandW]

I would be very concerned with your mismatch when descending steep grades.

[shootist]

Get a drop hitch that levels the tow bar. You are heading for certain disaster. In dips and rises you’ll see 7 inches out of level all the time.

[Dutch Star Don]

Without seeing yours, some coaches have enough room to add a second receiver to the top of the main receiver. I added one under my OEM receiver on my Monaco. If you can, it will gain you 3" in height. They jsut weld on a short receiver and plate both sides. I had a hitch/muffler shop do it.

[Crasher]

I had a friend in a class C coach towing his Jeep Wrangler. The attachment point on the Jeep was 3-4" above the receiver. If I would have seen it before he left, I would have stopped him. He had to do a panic stop coming through Phoenix when a car pulled in front of him and braked to switch another lane. When he tried to stop, the Jeep rode up, like the pole-vaulter Don referred to, and slammed into the rear of his coach. Close to $10,000 damage and a ruined trip. Not sure why the Toad braking didn't help more. I've always kept the tow bar 1-2" higher at the MH to counter such an event.

[Gary RVRoamer]

"Pole-vaulting" is a risk when the toad is high compared to the coach receiver. The toad tries to climb over the tow bar and literally gets vaulted upwards. Low, not so much because the toad dives under on a hard stop.


As a practical matter, I might not worry much about being an extra 1.5" low, but a 2" or 3" drop receiver isn't expensive or tough to use either. You decide the risk.

[USMCRET]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

Without seeing yours, some coaches have enough room to add a second receiver to the top of the main receiver. I added one under my OEM receiver on my Monaco. If you can, it will gain you 3" in height. They jsut weld on a short receiver and plate both sides. I had a hitch/muffler shop do it.

Attachment 393687

That’s an interesting solution, Don. I like it, but how do you know your tow capacity is preserved with that arrangement? I know little to nothing about how the ratings are derived.