Tow Dolly Advice

[PIGRIG]

Originally Posted by blueridge-fl

Look for a used tow dolly. There are usually lots of them on craigslist, facebook, offer-up, etc. Take your time and find one that is lightly used. We have an Acme tow dolly with surge disc brakes and have been happy with it. The Acme has no steering pan and removable ramps which makes it very light so it is easy to wheel around by hand. It does require that the steering wheel not be locked but most newer cars no longer have a locking steering wheel. We would rather flat tow but we needed to use one of our daily drivers and they are both paid for with relatively low milage so it seemed nuts to switch one of them out for a flat tow capable car. In addition to the dolly you will need to have lights on the vehicle under tow. The simplest solution is to get some magnetic lights, which is what we did. All things considered, I would rate the tow dolly experience as acceptable but not optimum.

Could you post a link to the lights you used?

[Craig36]

Few camp sites have room for both a toad and a dolly.

I would sell your car and buy one that can be towed four down. I know that may sound radical, but the tow dolly will be something you will regret.

[PIGRIG]

Originally Posted by EdInArk

That was our situation, and after buying the RV a new car just wasn't in the picture. Our "best bang for the buck" locally was a Mastertow Model 80THD from a local dealer; Big Tex Trailers carries them here. Ours has electric brakes, which mean't I had to add an $80 brake controller to the RV. That was no big deal; the RV was wired. I just needed the proper adapter. I'd prefer surge brakes, but the electric are working fine.



I put a trailer hitch on the toad to move it distances around the parks. And I put a jack from Northern Tool with a wheel on bottom to move it shorter distances. With that third wheel down it's much, much easier to move. I push on one fender, and my wife steers; it works out pretty well. Any RV site I can level the rig in is level enough for us to move the dolly to the back of. Or I tow it with the car to a convenient parking space. Heavy gravel is still tough, so I use the car.



With the Mastertow, if the tow dolly wheel is off the road, the RV wheels are off the road. I can't speak for others.



Obviously, some people have, but we've not. With normal caution and making sure the car is centered nothing will touch. If the car is too close to either fender it could, but we're careful to get it reasonably centered.



I added step traction strips to the ramps, and the car pull up fine now even in the rain. I also made some 1.5" (from 2 x 4 material) with a beveled edge to reduce the step up to the base of the ramp and into the tray for the wheels. This keeps the tires from just spinning instead of stepping up that 2" or so of metal.

The traction pads have a thin yellow stripe running parallel to the ramp, and I placed the pads so that when the strip is on the first tire tread the car is centered. That was sort of an added bonus. Prior to that, one of us stood in the center and made sure the hood emblem was centered on the tongue of the dolly.

It's helpful to have two people, but it's not critical. Either of us can load it by ourselves, but it's easier with an extra set of eyes outside.

I can use a light enough throttle to creep up the ramp. In the dry, I can just drive up. In the rain I added the wood blocks to reduce the step up, and I don't spin at all. Either way, I can just ease up the ramp and settle against the front stops. I've seen people who took my breath away, and I've got a friend who managed to drive over his, but he can't take off in gravel without spinning. Throttle control is key. You know whether you've got it or not.

Our biggest problem leaning was to get the car straight and centered. We'd pull up the the ramps off center. The spotter would point right or left, and we'd move accordingly and wind up with the car somewhat crooked on the dolly. Then when we'd get there the front wheels would be somewhat crooked, and the steering locked.

The trick to avoiding that is not to let the steering lock. On our Toyota, it's as simple as not removing the key. The steering doesn't lock until the wheel is turned AFTER the key is removed. Don't remove the key, the steering won't lock. If you do remove the key you can put it back in, turn it on, then back off, and it's unlocked again.

Of course it's easier to flat tow, but at least in our case, we don't need to tow often enough to justify the expense of a new car plus all the equipment to tow it. And a dolly is working fine for us.

You are the MVP of this post! I appreciate the feedback from everyone, but since I don’t have a choice but to use the dolly, I needed advice on using one, not why I shouldn’t use one. But now I know the pitfalls, too. I would love it if you could post a picture of the traction control tape and blocks you attached. Thanks.

[blueridge-fl]

Originally Posted by EdInArk

Our biggest problem leaning was to get the car straight and centered. We'd pull up the the ramps off center. The spotter would point right or left, and we'd move accordingly and wind up with the car somewhat crooked on the dolly. Then when we'd get there the front wheels would be somewhat crooked, and the steering locked.

.

Yes, getting the car centered and straight can be a challenge. Cars in which the driver does not have a clear view of the front end are especially challenging. I am now using magnetic poles like the pole guides you see on boat trailers to help get the car centered the first time. Magnetic because they get removed other than when loading the car.

The other pain with a dolly is the safety changes that require you to crawl under the car to attach the chains. Twinboat's solution is the way to go. No more laying in the dirt/mud/gravel under the car.

[seb1899]

Few camp sites have room for both a toad and a dolly.

My Acme Tow Dolly can be stored under my class c and it takes up less than three ft of space

My only complaint with the acme is there is no lateral "forgiveness" when loaded - if you are not centered on the ratchets (winches) it is back down the ramps and load it again.

next time I use it I am going to try the safety chains thru my spoke (mag)wheels. I may have to lengthen the chain as I have it thru the banjos and hook on over the control arms

[EdInArk]

Originally Posted by Craig36

Few camp sites have room for both a toad and a dolly.

I would sell your car and buy one that can be towed four down. I know that may sound radical, but the tow dolly will be something you will regret.

I don't think we've ever gotten a site without room for both. If it's a pull through I just leave the dolly connected and back the car off. If it's a back in I back the dolly in as far as it'll go then back the rig in and have always had room for the car. I have parked the dolly in a parking area just for convenience, but if there's not one available there's always been room in the site.

[EdInArk]

Originally Posted by PIGRIG

You are the MVP of this post! I appreciate the feedback from everyone, but since I don’t have a choice but to use the dolly, I needed advice on using one, not why I shouldn’t use one. But now I know the pitfalls, too. I would love it if you could post a picture of the traction control tape and blocks you attached. Thanks.

I just found your post and will get some photos for you in the daylight. But be prepared to be underwhelmed. It's just a couple of simple tricks to aid in traction if you don't have the best of throttle control in the wet.

[ThePowells]

Originally Posted by Cooperhawk

Of course for a few more dollars you can get one that folds up for more compact storage.

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...addyss_94-6008

This is what we have. It is heavier, but is also built by the #1 builder of tow dollies. With a little patience, they can be found used for $2300 to $2500. The wheels actually track behind the coach and I can turn as tight as the coach will go and not apply any stress to the toad suspension.

[Americanrascal]

Been towing on and off for about 35 years 4 down and dolly. We will never go back to 4 down and like you we must use a dolly because of our front wheel drive.

4 years ago we bout an American Car dolly Home | American Car Dolly and we've been awed by how well it has worked for us.

Its very stout and we've towed it and our car and truck on some of the harshest roads on the continent (AK and back) east west and north south many times. Never had a problem. The price is fantastic and free home delivery can't be beat. Its a small but very customer oriented company. We bought ours with the electric brake package (great easy set up with no modifications needed to the tow vehicle) and the spare tire which we have never used in over 50,000 miles of towing.

About 80% of the dolly parks under the rear of the rig on back in sites and we've never had a length problem in a campground with it.

There are a lot of pleased customers out there with an American.

[gbstewart]

I’m following this thread, and have a question, is it better to have a dolly with ramps that you don’t have to take on/off,

[EdInArk]

Originally Posted by gbstewart

I’m following this thread, and have a question, is it better to have a dolly with ramps that you don’t have to take on/off,

I have permanent ramps because my wife uses the dolly when I'm not along, and I fear she'd have trouble removing and replacing them.

On the other hand, we occasionally drag our ramps when going over dips exiting stations, etc. This isn't often, but it happens from time to time. This wouldn't happen with removable ramps.

Additionally, our dolly with permanent ramps was pretty difficult to move before I added the front wheel. I couldn't lift the front high enough to stand up with it because of the ramps.

So .... if you're physically able to R&R the ramps removable is probably better.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by gbstewart

I’m following this thread, and have a question, is it better to have a dolly with ramps that you don’t have to take on/off,

I think it is, but I tow a small SUV ( Kia Soul / Jeep Renegade ) and the ramp to body clearance is good, even going over driveway aprons. 30,000 miles and no contact.

With a lower, longer car, its possible that the ramp a can contact the bottom of the car going over aprons.
Hitch height is important for ramp clearance.

[blueridge-fl]

We have removable ramps and I don't find them to be a big deal to handle. My wife can handle them, no problem. We are towing a Ford Fusion at the moment, and I am not sure it would work with the fixed ramps.

[blueridge-fl]

Originally Posted by seb1899

My Acme Tow Dolly can be stored under my class c and it takes up less than three ft of space

My only complaint with the acme is there is no lateral "forgiveness" when loaded - if you are not centered on the ratchets (winches) it is back down the ramps and load it again.

next time I use it I am going to try the safety chains thru my spoke (mag)wheels. I may have to lengthen the chain as I have it thru the banjos and hook on over the control arms

We had the same complaint so we bought these. They act as visual guides to help center the car on the dolly. Really does help.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TowSmart...gnment%7D%3Aqu