timjet,
If you only anticipate towing it twice per year I would definitely look at a trailer or tow dolly. If I used a tow dolly with your truck I would disconnect the driveshaft at the rear differential. Remove four relatively small bolts and remove the retaining straps. Store the bolts and straps in a secure place. Tie up the driveshaft securely. Bungy cords would scare me a little, I would probably use a light duty ratchet strap. Also, be careful to not let the bearing caps on the free ends of the u-joint come off. When I have towed my Jeep on a tow dolly I wrapped duck tape around the u-joint to make sure the bearing caps stayed in place.
Towing 4 down is expensive. You need a base plate, a tow bar, a braking system and lights. Expect to spend $3K to $5K for all this stuff. You can do a lot of rentals for that price. AND...you would have to disconnect the driveshaft for this as well.
It seems to me the most economical way to do this is to buy a used tow dolly. When not in use you can store it by pushing it tongue first under the rear of your MH. It will add 2-3 feet to the overall length needed for your parking spot.
I just looked up U-Haul tow dolly and car hauler prices from Florida to Michigan. It is ≈$500 for a tow dolly and ≈$650 for a trailer. They may decline to rent either one to you because your truck exceeds their weight ratings.
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2003 34' Georgetown on W20 Workhorse Chassis. UltraRV power mods. Doug Thorley Headers and MagnaFlow 12589 mufflers. Front Sumo Springs, Rear P32 Sumo Springs, UltraRV Track Bar.
1998 Jeep Toad.
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