towing a toad without adding tow brakes to the toad

[Bogus JK]

Common sense, safety, and the law requires them. So does your insurance company. You also need an automatic emergency brake on the toad, in case it gets away. No cheap way to do it that I know of, unfortunately.

[RH_RVer]

On my first rig, I had a “professional” install the towing system for my toad. I used a Ready Brute braking system but the shop doing the install did not recommend or install a break away braking system and I didn’t know to question them. Dumb move.

Couple years later the toad separated from the motorhome. Thankfully at a slow speed and fortunately in the country near my house. Took out my neighbors barbed wire fence and severed the A pillar on the truck so they totaled it. Insurance paid. We fixed the fence.

I learned a lot after that incident, particularly on IRV2. I now know what is required and have a fully compliant towing system.

Good for you for asking first. While I think most shops want to guide their customers to the right answer, you just don’t know. So I do the research every time now.

I was very fortunate nobody, not even a cow, was hurt in my situation.

[n2zon]

Originally Posted by TUCSONRAIL

I am one of the naughty boys that tows without a braking system. I tow a 6000lb Suburban behind my Dutchstar. Dutchstar has a 37000lb unloaded weight, a 49000lb GVWR and a 64000lb GCWR. I could carry the Suburban inside the RV and still be under the GVWR. It stops much better than my Kountry Star towing a Jeep with a braking system. There is a lot to be said for the extra braking of a tag axle coach. If you are towing a Mini Cooper behind a Prevost do you really need one? With that said the OP does need one.

There have been several prior discussions about this.

Physics says your stopping distance is increased by the ratio of the unbraked axle (toad) weight to the braked axle (coach) weight. So unloaded you can expect a 12.2% increase in minimum stopping distance. If that's 200' without the toad, it's 224' with the toad. At GCWR it's 9.4%. If that's 200' without the toad, it's 219' with the toad.

You might someday care about that 19-24' extra feet. I certainly would, were I in front of you when it happened.

[Unplanned Tourist]

kwftlaud, I tow a 2010 Ranger, so around the same weight as you. I switched from a Brake Buddy to a ReadyBrake system and love it. Easy install and super quick to hook up or take off.

[Bigtoys2]

I must say helping a toad brake to help your motorhome stop I don’t really think it’s doing much if anything. I have a 54,000 pound Prevost H3-45 I don’t think it even knows it’s back there but you must have a way to stop it if it comes loose and I have had a pin come out. I saw my jeep in the side mirror and slowly stopped without too much damage to anything but it just goes to show you they can come lose. Some smaller motorhomes may get some braking aid but I have never feel any help stopping. But better safe that sorry.

[16wrangler]

In Pennsylvania anything toed over 3000 lbs. Requires brakes. I toe a Chevy Equinox with a 2018 Winnie 31 G E450 chassis. Yes the tode needs a break system.

[mogul264]

Originally Posted by kwftlaud

hello
I have a 28' e450 itasca sundancer.

I am considering getting a towbar to tow a ford ranger ( about 3600 LBS )
I travel alone, usually full fresh water, empty tanks.

I have lots of empty storage on my rig, and 2 slides.

I'm confused because here and on RV sites they talk about brake asset components and yet on youtube no one ever talks about them.

I know additional brake power is always a plus, but my Itasca brakes really well and when I travel I am almost never on sharp decline, and if I was to encounter them I've traveled enough to know to go slow down anything.

So, does everyone here with a toad for 2or 3000 lbs always have a braking system on their toad? the Itasca is 4 times the weight of my Ranger. I don't think I'd have a problem.

Any thoughts?
thanks
Kip

I was towing behind my 34' Winne Vectra, my 'toad', a '96 Jeep Cherokee. Going west from the Rocky Mountain National Park, I encountered a 7% downgrade. My speed crept up and up, downshifted too late, so it wouldn't shift. I had to ride my brakes HARD to get down where it could down-shift! As I finally slowed enough, it finally caugnt, and I left off the brakes. A CLOUD of smoke then blew past me! I had nearly smoked the linings of my brakes! Another few minutes, and I might not have had ANY brakes left! All because I DIDN'T have controlled-braking on the Jeep! Does THIS register with you? It scared the s---t out of me!

[Bearly]

I agree 100%. The Ready Brute tow bar with their surge brake system works well and is cost effective. Very simple to install

[Dodge Guy]

Originally Posted by TUCSONRAIL

I am one of the naughty boys that tows without a braking system. I tow a 6000lb Suburban behind my Dutchstar. Dutchstar has a 37000lb unloaded weight, a 49000lb GVWR and a 64000lb GCWR. I could carry the Suburban inside the RV and still be under the GVWR. It stops much better than my Kountry Star towing a Jeep with a braking system. There is a lot to be said for the extra braking of a tag axle coach. If you are towing a Mini Cooper behind a Prevost do you really need one? With that said the OP does need one.

What happens when you have a 6k lb rolling brick not stopping after it breaks away from the MH?

[BOSTONBERNIE]

Don't leave home without one.The Smart Thing was to ask! Good Job

[Dan104]

The NSA ReadyBrake is very easy to hook and un-hook. It is probably the least expensive you will find,

[bentjm]

Originally Posted by Dodge Guy

What happens when you have a 6k lb rolling brick not stopping after it breaks away from the MH?

What happens is that he is responsible for all of the damage and mayhem that ensues. And, without any support from his insurance.

Totally irresponsible.

[rpracing]

Originally Posted by kwftlaud

ok, guess it was a newbie stupid questions
thread requires no more input,
I will get towing brakes too

thanks to all that replied

Kip

They are correct that most states a baking system for towing a vehicle over 2500 lbs. As for braking system I found mine on Facebook Marketplace used for just $250, so you there. The reason I was able to buy it T that price is the people that owned it were getting out of RVing, and it works great. This is a site that explains the towing requirements. I have never purchased from them, but just provides good detail

[VKSheridan]

The NSA Elite Brute II is the only tow bar I’ll ever own again.

The surge brake is sensible as is the simplicity of the system. It’s 100% mechanical and you can *see* the health of your supplemental brake control versus “hope I get a useful fault code”.

Putting a power pack on the floor to push my brake pedal has always struck me as a clunky, overly complicated way to push a brake pedal. And if there’s no power to the pack, you’re hauling a brick. Plus, stowing the damn thing when you want to actually drive your toad is another unnecessary thing to deal with.

Lastly, the folks that make these are in Iola, Kansas and are a 100% customer centered business. My tow bar took damage from too tight of a turn (pretty much jackknifed) and since I was nearby, I went to their manufacturing facility. I was greeted like we were all high school pals. Two engineers looked over the damage, FIXED IT AT NO CHARGE and helped determine the root cause. I offered to pay at least the price of the damaged strut since it clearly was bad driving over bad material but they wouldn’t hear of it. Between their friendliness, transparency and willingness to help, I’m sold for life. The bar is light, easy to install and gives Blue Ox and Roadmaster a serious contender that performs.