Towing RV itself with a tow dolly?

[No Sweat]

Living in a RV that has roof leaks will be Mold City !! Not great for a healthy person never less than someone with heath issues !!

The best way is to make a heavy duty tow bar and a uhaul truck to tow it. Take off the front bumper and attach the tow bar to the front of the frame.

Might try running the motor off of a 5 gallon gas can. That way it by passes the old gas lines. Then hopefully the brakes work.

[dix39]

Originally Posted by No Sweat

Might try running the motor off of a 5 gallon gas can. That way it by passes the old gas lines. Then hopefully the brakes work.

I don't know what the fuel system is on the vehicle, but many years ago in what has been described as "the dumb and stupid years" with carburated engines I have even moved vehicles a short distance gravity feeding fuel into the carb. Perhaps that is what the above poster meant.

If it is throttle body, which it probably is, the fuel will have to go through the fuel pump.

It would seem that if you could get the engine and brakes to work, assuming the transmission works, and had some temporary tags you would be mobile and legal.

On the other hand it may cost less to go with a towbar, check to see what U-Haul has that might work. I think they rent towbars. Perhaps getting a handle on individual costs for towing, repairing and driving, tow truck, etc, would help with making a decision about which to do.

For a 21 mile trip I would not buy new tires, but add tubes or find used tires. In my mind buying new tires to go 21 miles would be huge waste of money.

I've been in your shoes financially and understand what you are trying to do. State of the art is not as important as accomplishing what needs to be done at the lowest cost.

You should have seen us when we moved from WV to NOCAL in '73. Think "Beverly Hillbillies", but we made it with 3 kids, a pet groundhog, and a Beagle in a 24' 4wd school bus filled with furniture and towing an Opel Cadette with a towbar and hitch I cobbled together with scrapyard parts and a borrowed welder. The couch was placed across the front for my wife and kids to sit on. Tires were the least of our worries. I think we were "taken care of" during that trip.

Steve

[steppinstone]

I don't think I would try too tow that behind me on a highway.If your going to go that route I would use back road's so you would be traveling slower and safer, that early in the morning there should be no traffic. If it were me I would get it running first and drive it to the location early in the morning. The person your getting it from does it need to be moved asap? Will he give you enough time to move it? It sounds like a ford 460 motor are you getting fuel? Does it run on starter fluid and cut off when you stop spraying fluid ?

[Solo_RV_Guy]

Originally Posted by Unicorn Driver

Would the driveshaft need to be disconnected?

*Always* disconnect the drive shaft at the differential when towing rear-wheel drive vehicles unless you want to contribute to a mechanic's beer fund.

[aether_one]

Originally Posted by AKIQPilot

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but about 99% of the suggestions mentioned in this thread are illegal in most states and dangerous in all states. Trying to tow a complete pile of crap with bad tires and no brakes is a stupid idea no mater what time of day you try to get away with it.

Pay a tow company the $500 or so to move the motorhome where you need it to be moved. If you can't afford the tow bill then you surely can't afford to live in an old clapped out piece of junk.

So's speeding but people do it every day.

Passed a truck pulling another truck this morning on US 441 using the chain/pipe method. Besides having the hazards on, on the towed vehicle, they also had a "chase" car with hazards on behind the towed vehicle. I've seen much worse home-made towing going on.

[OneToRememer]

Originally Posted by dix39

I don't know what the fuel system is on the vehicle, but many years ago in what has been described as "the dumb and stupid years" with carburated engines I have even moved vehicles a short distance gravity feeding fuel into the carb. Perhaps that is what the above poster meant.

it's a carb in the 7.5 ford big block.
I'll have to get some line and hose and see why the dealership owner couldn't get gas up front. I'll also need to check the fuel pump and make sure it's pumping good. All I had was the carb cleaner my buddy was spraying In the bowl so I wasn't able to see how good and how long the engine stayed running if I just fed the carb a little directly.

It would seem that if you could get the engine and brakes to work, assuming the transmission works, and had some temporary tags you would be mobile and legal.

The dealership owner didn't say anything was wrong with the tranny and if I can get him to just get a lost title for it he'll probably just come off a dealership tag. I've owned 5 Tauruses though so I know not to put my faither in any transmission stamped with thw name ford lol.

On the other hand it may cost less to go with a towbar, check to see what U-Haul has that might work. I think they rent towbars. Perhaps getting a handle on individual costs for towing, repairing and driving, tow truck, etc, would help with making a decision about which to do.

are you sure u haul offers a tow bar appropriate for this vehicle? U hail has alot of things that aren't that and all those things required a whole bunch of lying on my end to even get access to them. Which tow bar in particular are you talking about and do you have a link for it?

For a 21 mile trip I would not buy new tires, but add tubes or find used tires. In my mind buying new tires to go 21 miles would be huge waste of money.

if I go against the wrecker service plan I donr have to be as strict with the tires but I've never put a tube in a tire before but that sounds like way too much trouble for the other wheel the towing company owner was also complaining about. Don't want to drive a dually with three wheels in the back or lopsided strength. I've already got another thread addressing the wheel issue so I'm still trying to make a judgement call on whether it makes more sense to go 16 or to up it to 17s. Even without the one wheel being so flat it's off the rim and the other wheel that's got some stress marks on it I don't want the crazy RV tire sizes period. Even if all 6 of the 16.5s were brand new and under a lifetime warranty i would switch em because I don't want their goofy RV sizes no matter what. They're the 8 x 16.5s but I'm trying to keep it ford just to make sure it lies on the hubs. I hope I can do that vs maybe getting them off a Dodge or something else that would bolt but still make the lugs do the hubs job.

I've been in your shoes financially and understand what you are trying to do. State of the art is not as important as accomplishing what needs to be done at the lowest cost.

You should have seen us when we moved from WV to NOCAL in '73. Think "Beverly Hillbillies", but we made it with 3 kids, a pet groundhog, and a Beagle in a 24' 4wd school bus filled with furniture and towing an Opel Cadette with a towbar and hitch I cobbled together with scrapyard parts and a borrowed welder. The couch was placed across the front for my wife and kids to sit on. Tires were the least of our worries. I think we were "taken care of" during that trip.

Steve

What was the year and model on that bus and how'd u even come accross that to begin with lol?

I'm glad some people understand. I'd much rather be in it than homeless or back in my pancaked Dodge neon or in these stressful and dangerous places I've had to lay my head down at. A leaky roof aint nothing.

[OneToRememer]

Originally Posted by steppinstone

I don't think I would try too tow that behind me on a highway.If your going to go that route I would use back road's so you would be traveling slower and safer, that early in the morning there should be no traffic. If it were me I would get it running first and drive it to the location early in the morning. The person your getting it from does it need to be moved asap? Will he give you enough time to move it? It sounds like a ford 460 motor are you getting fuel? Does it run on starter fluid and cut off when you stop spraying fluid ?

The dealership gave it to me like 5 months ago and it's been there for like 9 years so no it's safe but I can't stay in it why it's there and I need to relocate to somewhere else. Back roads would be more trouble then they are worth. The highway I live off of is pretty much dead by 11, 4 lanes, the interstate in between is 3:lanes, and the RV is on a steep hill on the highway it's off of then it goes upward then the rest of the inclines arent too bad and there's plenty of break down lane. If I take my route I got almost a straight shot all 21 miles accept for one sharp curve .yeah it's a 460 and I've not analyzed the fuel pump. The owner didn't have it on anymore and the ignition switch was complicating staying started and starting period. But tea it stays started when i spray the carb.

[Scarab0088]

Hoping the best for you and yours.

When I was young as a very junior enlisted service member, money was tight, but everyone needs wheels. So I can relate...these situations are very real.

Good luck

[dix39]

It sounds like you're getting it sorted out. I hope whatever you do has a happy ending.

I've never used a U-Haul towbar, but I think they have them that clamp or bolt to the vehicle being towed. If you have a way to contact them that would answer the question.

The bus was a '62 International 4wd with a 6 cylinder engine. I bought it from the board of education in WV for $300.00 to convert to a camper to use in some of the out of the way places I used to go back there. They used it to pick up some students that lived down a steep muddy dirt road, but later made some sort of agreement with the parents to get the kids to a place where the larger school bus could pick them up.

After getting a job in northern CA I decided to use it to move with. After driving it I found that it burned so much oil I was worried there would not be enough in the country to get it to CA, so I did a "shade tree overhaul" which worked out well. About 50-55 was as fast as I wanted to run it with the gearing it had. After moving again to Prineville, OR I sold it because it was just too slow for the distances out here.

Best of luck.

Steve

[ThePowells]

So, what happens during your ultra safe, cannot fail vehicle relocation if something does go wrong?
If another vehicle or property is involved, whose insurance will pay? (Remember, insurance is something that you don't have)
What happens when you get stopped due to calls to 911 about this little mission? You can't afford a tow truck during a convenient time, so how are you going to afford a rotation wrecker at 2 AM? Is the tow vehicle driver willing to shoulder the multiple citations that are sure to arise from this little expedition?
Call a couple of tow companies around where you want the thing delivered to and ask them how much to move it if they take something near by where it is and get it on the way back? Remember for that to work, they have to be able to get to it about any time, and the driveshaft needs to be removed and ready to go.
I remember that you used to could rent tow bars that attached to the steel bumper. A few of those might be around somewhere.


Otherwise, please have a third vehicle with somebody to video this adventure and it may end up being your get away vehicle.
I love having job security.

[Donhappyone]

I once pulled a 5Ton delivery truck with my GMC 4x4 with standard transmission on dry pavement up a hill and into the shopping centre parking lot when the truck was loaded. In four wheel drive low range it was a real hard pull. I was happy to help but was very surprised how hard a pull it was. I would say your motorhome is not as heavy as the truck but has a similar chassis and depending on how much you keep in there you will find your vn will be insufficient in power, supension and braking. IF you do manage to get going your transmission will sufer and the torque converter likely would need to be changed not to mention the strain on those small u-joints on the drive shaft. Hope my experience has helped.

[our rv]

Yes...my advice call a tow service. Be safe and don't worry about the cost. Can you put a price on safety?

[MJM1954]

Please keep us updated on when and the route you will be taking so I can make sure that I'm no where around. From reading your posts sounds like insurance will be missing also [emoji61]

[Hangfive]

Vans are very light in the rear, hard to get traction pulling something as big as your RV. LOL