Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Toads and Motorhome Related Towing
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-19-2020, 09:17 PM   #1
NXR
Senior Member
 
NXR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 3,526
What does the Stay-n-Play DUO braking system actually draw (amps)?

In other words, what is the idle and maximum current draw of the Stay-n-Play DUO system?

I know it requires a 20-amp fuse but I'm trying to figure out the car battery charge line. I'm about to purchase it with the Coachlink wireless display so I can't just measure the amps, unfortunately.

I do not want to do the eTrailer thing and just run a wire directly from the motorhome 12 VDC circuit through a thermal breaker to the car 12 VDC system because it provides no isolation between the two. I'd rather go with the RVi Towed Battery Charger that actually provides isolation (although it might just be a very expensive diode) or something similar.

https://rvibrake.com/collections/fla...13115309260823

But the RVi system can only supply up to 10 amps. So if the Stay-n-Play DUO pulls close to 10 amps or more most of the time because the vacuum pump runs a lot, I can't use the RVi system, especially at night when the car tail lights are on.

So...I was wondering if any of you curious types ever put an ammeter on that thing to see just how hard it really is hitting the battery.

Thanks,

Ray
__________________
2020 Forest River Georgetown GT5 34H5
NXR is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-19-2020, 10:24 PM   #2
Registered User
 
Newmar Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Freightliner Owners Club
Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Rosemary Farm, Northern Ca
Posts: 5,444
I think you are over thinking this. Just my humble opinion...
R.Wold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2020, 04:43 AM   #3
Senior Member


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 5,929
Ray-

I have not measured the current used by our toad's Stay-in-Play.

Our coach has a factory-installed 15A self-resetting circuit breaker on the coach end of the charge line. As it's a breaker, I would not know if the current exceeded 15A, or not.

I'd be surprised if a 10A charge line could not keep the toad battery charged with the "normal" usage profile of the Duo and other loads, such as the parking lights.

As mentioned in many other posts (and by your own), charge line components other than fuses/breakers (and in rare occasions, a diode) are optional. That said, if you want one that has a 15A rating, consider the LSL Toad Charge (lnk here). We have one on our toad; without it I would have had to install a diode in the charge line. (It is an expensive diode, certainly.)
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
l1v3fr33ord1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2020, 12:52 PM   #4
NXR
Senior Member
 
NXR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 3,526
Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
I'd be surprised if a 10A charge line could not keep the toad battery charged with the "normal" usage profile of the Duo and other loads, such as the parking lights.

As mentioned in many other posts (and by your own), charge line components other than fuses/breakers (and in rare occasions, a diode) are optional. That said, if you want one that has a 15A rating, consider the LSL Toad Charge (lnk here). We have one on our toad; without it I would have had to install a diode in the charge line. (It is an expensive diode, certainly.)
Thanks. That link is showing a 10-amp output?

We do drive with the headlights on and the incandescent parking lights should only be about an amp based on the wattage of the bulbs so that's about 10%.

The car has to be in the ACC position to unlock the steering wheel so the draw may be higher even with "accessories" shut off.

I was half-joking about the diode part, I hope. A diode will have a 0.6 volt drop across it so if it truly is a diode then you should see different voltages on each terminal. Have you ever noticed that?

R.Wold, maybe and hopefully. But I was asking myself how the heck that puny little pump could require a 20-amp fuse.

I imagine the pump cycles based on a pressure switch, or rather a negative pressure switch , but maybe it runs constantly to assure there is always vacuum available. Or maybe it has a large starting draw; I just dunno.

I did send a query to Demco and if I receive a response I'll post it here.

Ray
__________________
2020 Forest River Georgetown GT5 34H5
NXR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2020, 01:00 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
EddieJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Brunswick Ohio
Posts: 25
The pump only runs when the unit is applying the brake.
EddieJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2020, 01:25 PM   #6
Senior Member


 
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 5,929
Quote:
Originally Posted by NXR View Post
Thanks. That link is showing a 10-amp output?
So sorry! I saw the 15A fuse rating for the LSL Toad Charge circuit breaker, and looked right past its "Powerful 10A Max. Output." So, same rating as the RVi unit.

We have not had a dead battery in 20,000 miles of towing through the "10A" Toad Charge- even with the puny battery in the Fit.
__________________
Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
l1v3fr33ord1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2020, 06:53 PM   #7
NXR
Senior Member
 
NXR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 3,526
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieJ View Post
The pump only runs when the unit is applying the brake.
Perfect, thanks. Then the 10-amp RVi unit will be fine. eTrailer charges way too much for their line.

Ray
__________________
2020 Forest River Georgetown GT5 34H5
NXR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2020, 06:53 PM   #8
NXR
Senior Member
 
NXR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 3,526
Quote:
Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1 View Post
So sorry! I saw the 15A fuse rating for the LSL Toad Charge circuit breaker, and looked right past its "Powerful 10A Max. Output." So, same rating as the RVi unit.

We have not had a dead battery in 20,000 miles of towing through the "10A" Toad Charge- even with the puny battery in the Fit.
No problem. Been there, done that.

Ray
__________________
2020 Forest River Georgetown GT5 34H5
NXR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2020, 06:14 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,093
I used a earlier version of SMI brake system that had a vacuum pump. Never used any kind of charge line and never had a battery issue. Now use an AF1 no charge line on my 2012 Flex and now my 2020 Edge.
__________________
2022 Tiffin Wayfarer RW
DAJO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2020, 03:29 PM   #10
NXR
Senior Member
 
NXR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 3,526
Demco responded rapidly: (edited a bit for readability)

Typical startup amp draw for the DUO is 16-18 amps & typical run amps are 10-12 amps.

The DUO only draws power when the braking system is actually running, so when it's receiving both the brake light signal from the coach & the G-Force Controller is feeling forward inertia.

The system won’t draw any power when just switching the system on, only when the 2 signals are present.


Ray
__________________
2020 Forest River Georgetown GT5 34H5
NXR is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2008 Saturn Vue XE - SMI Stay-In-Play DUO Installation DriVer Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 5 06-24-2008 06:30 AM
SMI Stay and Play Duo Problem RET Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 3 05-29-2008 04:52 AM
SMI Stay-Play Duo on a 2008 CR/V Final Roadtest ARNE-T Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 1 04-12-2008 10:00 AM
SMI stay-in-play Duo for a 2008 CR/V - (Pictures) ARNE-T Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 2 03-30-2008 03:26 PM
SMI stay-in-play Duo for a 2008 CR/V ARNE-T Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 7 03-25-2008 01:18 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.