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Old 06-17-2021, 07:59 AM   #1
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What's on Equinox Discrete Logic Circuit

Here's the question: What's on the Discrete Logic Circuit on a 2015 Chev Equinox?
Here's the background and the lengthy story. Have a 2015 Equinox 4 cyl, electric power steering towed by a 2010 Journey on a Freightliner XCL with an ISC Cummins and Allison 3000. Had infrequent slow speed, tight turn, death wobble using the original procedure of pulling the Discrete Logic (dcl) fuse and key in acc position. Have towed for up to 4 nights without starting car using this arrangement, and all was OK.
Tried latest arrangement - leave dcl fuse in, pull ABS fuse, and add charging line. The charging line is off the FRTLNR circuit, which is HOT whenever the coach engine is running. Ran a 10ga line from trailer plug to battery positive and am getting 14+/- V when coach running, so charging line is working. First night out (short day -300 miles), started car and all was well. Next morning battery low but car started. Next day (300 miles) car OK. Following morning car is DEAD, wipers drifted up on WS, car doors don't open, car won't start. Batt <10V. Note: key is left in ACC position overnite, as it always has been and battery was OK as long as DCL fuse is out. Went back to original arrangement - ABS fuse in, DCL fuse out and battery recharged.

OK, simple solution could be to turn ignition OFF every night, but it still leaves the question - What is on DCL fuse that drains battery?
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Old 06-17-2021, 08:20 AM   #2
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I dunno but the battery draw on my 2020 is almost 8 amps when configured for towing.

Why are you leaving the car ignition turned on overnight when parked?

The manual says you're supposed to run the car for 3 minutes (or maybe 5) at the end of the day in addition to the 5-minute runs "at fuel stops". I just leave the ignition off if I'm staying hooked up. The engine needs run for five minutes before the first tow of each day anyway. What am I missing?

EDIT: I've attached the GM bulletin that talks about this being a problem with the electric power steering on the 4-cylinder only. I take it you do have the 4-cylinder engine?

Ray
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Equinox Terrain revised flat towing.pdf (17.9 KB, 3 views)
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Old 06-17-2021, 08:39 AM   #3
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I hear you Re; running each night, the manual suggests it. However, I didn't do it in the past and all was well, so it leaves the question that even if I did run it each day would the batt be dead overnite? Would it be better to pull both fuses for a long tow?
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Old 06-17-2021, 08:46 AM   #4
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I made the mistake once of leaving the car in service mode overnight and the battery was stone cold dead the next morning.
I'm still fighting the battery going dead while towing. Charge wire is working. If I stop every 200 miles or so and run the car all is good. If I try to go 300-350 sometimes it will start, sometimes not. 400 miles... dead every time. I have changed to a heavier gage charge wire with no success. Next step will be going to yet a heavier wire but it is not going to fit in the standard plug. Will have to have a separate plug for it I guess.
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Old 06-17-2021, 10:33 AM   #5
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If your 2015 also pulls about 8 amps in towing mode, yes, your battery will be dead overnight. That is a lot of current.

The towing instructions for the Equinox are a bit weird. They say to run the car at the beginning of the day and at the end of the day plus "at each fuel stop" without regard to whether you fuel each day like we do or whether you have a DP with 150 gallons and you can drive eight hours and fuel the next day.

Those directions also do not cover being stopped in traffic for an hour, which is longer than a fuel stop, nor is there a "every xx hours or every xx miles" requirement like some other cars have.

Our Equinox owners manual also has a caution to not put any type of deflector on the car itself because that can restrict the air flow across the transmission that is needed for cooling. That likely is also the reason for the 65 MPH speed limit (as an uneducated guess of mine). A deflector on the motorhome itself is said to be OK.

Putting 1 + 1 together, perhaps inappropriately, I figure the "run for xx minutes" requirement is to circulate the transmission fluid after there is no cooling airflow in order to eliminate hot spots in the transmission.

So I follow those directions and run the car for five minutes anytime we're stopping for a half hour or so, such as a rest area for the dogs.

Our F-53 gasser has the 7-pin charge line hot to the motorhome battery (not controlled by the motorhome ignition position). So if we're on shore power overnight I just shut the car off but leave the umbilical plugged in and the car battery still gets a charge from shore power.

Do you have a clamp-on DC ammeter? If so, you can easily measure how much current is coming out of your battery (and how much is going in from the charge line).

I do not know the Freightliner at all so is there a possibility that leaving the car plugged into the motorhome, while the motorhome engine is off, is actually sucking battery power out of the car and powering something inside the motorhome?

Ray
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Old 06-17-2021, 10:43 AM   #6
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Quote:
If I try to go 300-350 sometimes it will start, sometimes not. 400 miles... dead every time. I have changed to a heavier gage charge wire with no success. Next step will be going to yet a heavier wire but it is not going to fit in the standard plug. Will have to have a separate plug for it I guess.
In addition to the larger charge line, did you check to assure the ground wire between the car's battery and the motorhome is also a larger gauge? The ground line is the other half of the charging circuit so increasing one wire but having an under-sized other wire will cause a similar problem.

If you want to actually do some testing I can give you a few things to try. I helped a fellow figure out his issue and this is where my guidance essentially started: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/new-...ml#post5478323

He had a Sprinter and a 4-pin connector had been wired up as a separate battery charge circuit, so it's a bit odd in that regard but the tests are the same.

When you drive the longer distance, is there anything different electrical-wise? I'm wondering if some of that is at night so now the car's lights are powered up. If so, the car's lights will use some of the ground wire's current capacity.

If you have "auto headlights by default" like my 2020, that could cause the car's headlights to turn on and suck more power than happens during the day. I recently helped a fellow with that exact problem; he did not know how to turn his "auto" function off on his 2019 nor did he understand that he needed to turn the "auto" function off each time after he ran the car at a stop. His battery was only going dead when he towed at night because the headlights were coming on automatically.

He actually noticed that in his rearview camera and just off-handedly mentioned it. That lit the headlight over my head.

Ray
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Old 06-20-2021, 12:33 PM   #7
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Since the battery charged after I replaced the dcl fuse I feel the charging system works OK. Plus the battery stayed charged prior to the charge line being added with he dcl fuse out. Saw another post where an Equinox goes dead with a charge line, I feel it's related to the dcl fuse. Without a good reason not too, I'm going to pull both the ABs and the dcl fuse with the charge line in service
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Old 06-20-2021, 02:13 PM   #8
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dead battery issue

2016 Newmar Ventana LE 4036 Cummins ISO 360.

I just purchased a 2020 Equinox LT, 4 wheels down toad.

First night we had to boondock and I left ignition in acc. position. In the am found front windshield wiper moving very, very slowly.
Barely opened the locked door with remote. Found wiper switch in off position??

Jumped the battery enough to start engine and let run to charge.

I have an in-tow battery charger installed. It gets power from RV but only with RV ignition on.
My braking system is Brake Master connected to my air brake system.

Now for my question.
I would like to install a battery cut off switch and after putting car in tow mode, open switch so no battery drain occurs. I have separate stop/directional system wired from RV, not using the car electrical system.

The reason for my wanting to disconnect the battery and leave the car set up in tow mode, is twofold. When boondocking overnight and outside influences require me to vacate immediately, I do not want to have to leave the RV to take the time to set the toad in towing condition, versus to just start the RV and vacate. I'll then do required tow needs at better/safer location ASAP.

Im aware of the need for starting the engine frequently and this requires a battery switched on. Hence the switch.

The second reason is, if my assumption is correct, the odometer is digital which needs power to record milage accumulation? With battery disconnected, odometer would not record milage of a non-engine run time and falsely indicate oil change required and possibly cause warrantee issue hassle. Maybe?

Anyone know of towing a Equinox without battery connected having any negative issues?

Dealer didn't provide absolute answer, more of an assumption on her part.

Thank you ahead of time for your responses.
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Old 06-20-2021, 02:14 PM   #9
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Not only did my equinox battery die two times while towing, but it would not start even with a jump from another car. In fact it had to be towed away by the Chevy dealer because the brake pedal sensor went out each time. How does that happen when the battery drains down to nothing? Iím beginning to think this car is junk and I need to be finding something else for toad. I am giving it one more chance by purchasing and installing the LSL toad charging system. Anybody have any luck with that?
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Old 06-20-2021, 05:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO Fred View Post
Not only did my equinox battery die two times while towing, but it would not start even with a jump from another car. In fact it had to be towed away by the Chevy dealer because the brake pedal sensor went out each time. How does that happen when the battery drains down to nothing? Iím beginning to think this car is junk and I need to be finding something else for toad. I am giving it one more chance by purchasing and installing the LSL toad charging system. Anybody have any luck with that?
Without an external battery charger installed under your hood charging your battery, it will die everytime your car alternator isn't charging your battery.
You need an "In-Car Towing battery charger".
I purchased just the charger for $99 from RVibrake.com.
There are less expensive charging items you could install and which ever you choose will undoubtedly be less expensive than trading your toad due to you not charging the battery. The same will happen with another vehicle if you don't provide an external charger. IMHO.
Just saying.
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Old 06-20-2021, 09:06 PM   #11
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The Discreet Logic fuse powers the main relay that supplies power to all the computers under the dash, the radio/gps, the shift interlock control and power port in the console when the ignition is not in the ON position. In other words it powers all the electrical components in the dash.
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Old 06-20-2021, 09:32 PM   #12
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What's on Equinox Discrete Logic Circuit

Quote:
You need an "In-Car Towing battery charger".
I purchased just the charger for $99 from RVibrake.com.

I tow a 2020 Equinox Premier. Unless RVi very recently changed their Towed Battery Charger device it cannot be used on a 2018+ Equinox due to the Equinox now having an AGM battery as standard.

There's a long thread here on my problems with that device. RVi subsequently added a note to the product page that says it cannot be used with AGM batteries. Their device sees the AGM battery as a possible short circuit and "folds back" the charging current to about 3 amps whereas the Equinox needs about 8 amps just to stay even. So the car battery still goes dead, but at a slower rate.

Due to the electric power steering you cannot tow the Equinox without the battery connected and configured properly. Eventually you will suffer the death wobble.

The odometer does NOT accumulate mileage when configured properly and being towed.

I don't get the boondocking issue, though. What he wrote implies he has the slides in and the jacks up for a quick getaway all the time. If you're in that bad an area that you do not feel safe going outside, what assurances do you have that someone has not already tampered with something, chocked your wheels, or similar?

I wonder if the fob remote will start the engine with the car in neutral. If so that may let the OP do his getaway.

Ray
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