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04-16-2019, 10:17 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,482
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Wrangler safety chains
I’m in the process of setting up my ReadyBrute Elite with custom clevises for my LOD bumper recovery points. I’m trying to figure out where to attach the safety chains. I have two options as I see them:
1. Attach some recovery points to the top of the bumper where either a bull bar or winch is supposed to attach.
2. Attach to the bottom of the frame where the LOD skid plate attaches. It attaches to the bottom edge as noted by the red arrows in the picture.
Thoughts or alternatives?
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04-16-2019, 11:25 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,452
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An alternative would be the short cables supplied with Blue Ox nameplates, they wrap around the front cross member and remain even if the bumper fasteners fail completely. Basically it's a pair of 3' cables with loop ends and a couple of links to fasten each cable into a circle around the frame.
I'm not familiar with your brand of bumper, so cannot comment on the adequacy of the fasteners. My Jeep has the ARB bumper that I installed myself, and I have full confidence in that remaining with the vehicle.
On my Chevy, the winch bumper fasteners are bolted to flanges that are in my opinion a bit thin. Probably designed to crumple. In that case I reinstalled the OEM recovery loops in a location behind the bumper with separate fasteners that would provide a secondary failsafe should the complete bumper fastening system and frame flanges fail. The safety cables connect there.
Yes, I may be over-engineering it a bit. However constant repetitive strain over many days is a different issue with respect to metal fatigue than is the rare event when a winch bumper is used for winching.
__________________
Been through all the continental states and provinces. Loving life on the road.
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04-16-2019, 03:47 PM
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#3
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Community Administrator
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 19,576
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A short section of chain bolted around the frame is a good place to attach the safety cables. They need to be attached to the frame independent of the bumper.
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2017 Phaeton 40IH XSH Maroon Coral - Power Glide Chassis with IFS
Previous '15 Tiffin Allegro RED 38QRA and '06 Itasca Sunrise 35A
'16 Jeep JKU Wrangler Sahara or '08 Honda Goldwing
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04-17-2019, 07:49 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Dixie !! (north Georgia) USA
Posts: 4,085
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What Dan said
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04-17-2019, 07:56 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,482
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Thanks all. I think I may try something like these and bolt them onto the frame.
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04-23-2019, 09:35 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirchyBoy
Thanks all. I think I may try something like these and bolt them onto the frame.
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I would like to know how well your safety cable hooks fit in that chain link.
We have been looking for ways to connect our cables as well.
I saw one or two using heavy duty forged eye bolts to the end of the front crossmember. There is about a 5\8" hole in the end of the crossmember that would accommodate.
Drawback on that setup is you are attaching at a 90* angle to the bolt shaft which reduces the load capacity by about half or less of the 4-5000# rating for each bolt.
Thoughts?
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04-23-2019, 10:11 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,482
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I’m second guess using those lifting shackles. They are rated for the correct weight but they aren’t necessarily designed for a rapid transfer of weight. I’m going to look for L-shaped bracket that will bolt to the spot you mentioned. I’ll post here once I’ve figured it out.
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2022 Winnie Forza 36H
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04-24-2019, 11:24 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,662
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I'm one that's been using the forged steel eye bolts for a couple of years now on our JK. While it may not be the best solution, it's gonna work. The true test would be if the tow bar broke in some odd fashion or, the the 5/8" diameter pin sheared etc. But, those are pretty extreme. I won't sit here and debate the physics and dynamics of all possible breakage scenarios. I'm just saying that for OUR operation, it's working, based on no actual testing of them. Mine are 1/2 diameter ones at present. I'm planning on purchasing some 5/8" ones to replace the 1/2" ones soon, just 'cause I can. This is another one of those things that, if you don't trust that kind of remedy, then don't do it.
Scott
P.S. You mentioned the fact that those are mounted at a 90 degree angle to the force that would be applied. Well, you could remedy that by getting some 3/8" or at severe extreme, some 1/2" thick, 2"x2" angle iron and attach that angle iron to the cross member and then, attach the eye bolts the face of the angle. Now you'd have them facing forward.
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2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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04-24-2019, 11:33 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,482
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Thanks Fire Up. That is exactly what I was considering. My skid plate hides that end which is why I’m thinking is an L bracket may be a bit better.
__________________
2022 Winnie Forza 36H
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04-25-2019, 01:08 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 88
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http://https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Draw-Tite/40602.html
Had thought about mounting these to the bumper through the frame bolt holes.
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I learn so much from my mistakes that I am not afraid to make them!
2000 Monaco Diplomat 38a, 8.3L Cummins Scangauge D now Bluefire, '14 JKU as towed
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