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08-30-2018, 12:32 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 4,350
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(TerryH.) 2000-GS Conquest Limited 6266 Class-C 99-E450SD V10
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08-30-2018, 09:11 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Port Neches, TX 77651
Posts: 167
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Be aware that ALL the Ford gauges except gas gauge are DUMMIES (from my 2002 Excursion 7.3 to my 2018/9 E450 V-10)!!! SHAME ON FORD!!! My Scan Gauge shows all except oil pressure (note oil pressure gauge NEVER moves--should be lower when HOT, higher when COLD).
__________________
Pete and Mary
2019 Entegra Esteem 30X
2016 Entegra Aspire 42DEQ
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09-01-2018, 06:58 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 114
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I think since it’s been taken for a few drives maybe that is enough that there should be no air in the lines, yeah?
I got the obd2 reader and torque pro app. When I ran a test iit flagged twice for “ high sensor voltage for switch time calculation “ And a forum that I googled says the camshaft sensor needs to be replaced. It seems like a simple repair, but do you think the app is correct? And would that have anything to do with my vehicle going into limp mode?
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09-02-2018, 06:09 AM
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#18
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Registered User
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 7,114
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What was the error code number??
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09-02-2018, 06:14 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 7,114
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CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR:
The CAM POSITION sensor is on the drivers side, the very front of the engine. Kind of just above the top belt idler pulley.. The photo is looking up from the bottom when I was re-assembling my engine.. On my Class A, this is very hard to get at from the top, The dog house, the air intake snorkel and upper radiator hose are in the way.
Yes, this could be the problem.. The sensor is probably putting out a weak signal and as it heats up the signal gets weaker or stops all together..
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR:
When I had my engine tore apart, I installed new CAM and CRANK sensors as a preventative measure. The CRANK sensor is more of a challenge. On mine I remove the A/C compressor to get at it. The A/C doesn't need to be disconnected, remove the three bolts and just slide it out of the way. The CRANK SENSOR is tucked up behind it, mounted on the side of the timing chain cover on the very front of the engine...
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09-02-2018, 06:44 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,565
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As long as I have been driving Ford's, since 66, all except gas, only show a normal range. Just there to show if not enough or too much. Run into this all the time when people add gauges and go nuts when they see them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by midasman
Be aware that ALL the Ford gauges except gas gauge are DUMMIES (from my 2002 Excursion 7.3 to my 2018/9 E450 V-10)!!! SHAME ON FORD!!! My Scan Gauge shows all except oil pressure (note oil pressure gauge NEVER moves--should be lower when HOT, higher when COLD).
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09-09-2018, 01:03 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avfordguy
Probably chewed wire, its common
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My mechanic went with me on a test drive to watch the scan tool. With no change to the dash gauge the scan tool showed an increase in temperature steadily from 220 up to 255 degrees then it tripped the limp mode. The main hose coming from the radiator became extremely pressurized and hot, while the one near the bottom of the engine remained normal with just a warm feel. Let the engine cool a bit, then a short hesitation upon startup. There are 28,000 miles on this 15 year old rig. Without telling you what he suggested the problem to be, what would you assume?
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09-09-2018, 01:04 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 114
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My mechanic went with me on a test drive to watch the scan tool. With no change to the dash gauge the scan tool showed an increase in temperature steadily from 220 up to 255 degrees then it tripped the limp mode. The main hose coming from the radiator became extremely pressurized and hot, while the one near the bottom of the engine remained normal with just a warm feel. Let the engine cool a bit, then a short hesitation upon startup. There are 28,000 miles on this 15 year old rig. Without telling you what he suggested the problem to be, what would you assume?
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09-09-2018, 01:06 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,565
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Thermostat.
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09-09-2018, 01:24 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A32Deuce
Thermostat.
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I agree. Perhaps a bad water pump also. Check for coolant at the water pump weep hole.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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09-09-2018, 01:36 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,565
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I have seen bad impellers in the pump.
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09-09-2018, 01:57 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 114
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Bad thermostat causes pressure in the top hose coming from the radiator? To where you can’t squeeze it.
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09-09-2018, 02:11 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,565
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As the coolant heats, it expands. Which means that the pressure is increasing. That is why there is a recovery tank in the cooling system. Years ago, you had to judge how much coolant to add so you did not loose that muck out the over flow.
The newer cooling systems are done a lot differently now then before. Can't really see it in the E450 I have, but I can in my F150. A whole lot more complex then my 1962 Falcon!
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09-09-2018, 02:22 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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I'd replace the thermostat then run it, see if the overheating is cured and the coolant is circulating. If not, then replace the water pump.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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