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Old 01-24-2022, 07:10 AM   #1
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110 outlets

I have a 2020 Gulf Stream cl c conquest that keeps blowing circuit breakers. I have 3 110v outlets, 2 are wired together, I can only use 1 out of 4 plugs. Should I have an electrician look at the wiring or are all class c wired so the 110 outlets donít get used?
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Old 01-24-2022, 07:16 AM   #2
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We are going to need more details before we can help.


What is the circuit breaker rating?


Does it blow if nothing is plugged in?


Can you plug in a load of less than 75% of breaker rating and not have the circuit breaker trip? Check the individual outlet and the daisy chained one.


Do you have 108+ VAC at each outlet with nothing plugged in? What about with the load?


Have you checked each outlet for loose wire/burned connection (yes, with all power off)?
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Old 01-24-2022, 04:58 PM   #3
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You can almost rest assured that you have more than three 120v AC outlets. One in the bath area, probably the GFCI and one in the kitchen counter area, possibly on the underside of the kitchen cabinets, if you have a absorption fridge that runs on LP and 120v AC there will be a receptacle on the back side for the fridge to plug into and it is probably on a shared circuit. The power converter is frequently on a shared circuit and many times it is on the same circuit as the fridge. There will also be an outlet at the TV, and one on the outside that is supplied thru the GFCI in the bathroom. There are probably outlets in the bed area and the dinette area. The microwave should be on its own circuit or a shared one with the water heater using a load shed device.

You stand to lose about three outlets if the GFCI is tripped, the one above the kitchen counter, the outside one, and the GFCI itself in the bathroom.

It helps to know the exact model of the rig. I looked at a couple of the 360į walk arounds and can pick out most of the receptacles.

You need to determine what receptacles are on what breakers. Turn them all off, and take something you know works, a small desk lamp or similar, and plug into and outlet and turn on the breakers till you find the one that works the light. Turn the others back off and go to the remaining receptacles and determine what is working, make notes of which receptacles are on each breaker. If you are running a space heater, that can be a big issue, especially with a hair dryer or coffee pot on the same circuit.

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Old 01-24-2022, 05:26 PM   #4
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I have a 2020 Gulf Stream cl c conquest that keeps blowing circuit breakers. I have 3 110v outlets, 2 are wired together, I can only use 1 out of 4 plugs. Should I have an electrician look at the wiring or are all class c wired so the 110 outlets donít get used?
Are you positive it trips the breaker or just the GFCI?
Conne tons on RV type receptacles are notoriously poor as they use push type connections w/o retaining screws. If any are questionable on inspection a replacement might help.
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Old 01-24-2022, 05:31 PM   #5
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I'm going to guess you are running electric space heaters.
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Old 01-24-2022, 05:35 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Winemaker2 View Post
Are you positive it trips the breaker or just the GFCI?
Conne tons on RV type receptacles are notoriously poor as they use push type connections w/o retaining screws. If any are questionable on inspection a replacement might help.
^^^^^^^^^

Might be your issue - pull out and hard wire them using the screws - or replace the gfi plug as it may also be an issue.

Might also give the factory a call for wiring Diagram.

15 or 20 amp Brakers?

Best of Luck,
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Old 01-25-2022, 05:06 AM   #7
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Thank you everyone for your responses. I need to do a little more research. The outlets that are tripping the circuit breaker are probably chained/wired together. The kitchen and over the cab bunk outlet. And the outlet under the dinette and bedroom are wired together. If I run a second appliance the breaker trips. The bathroom outlet isn’t giving me a problem and yes it’s gfci.

I spent 1 night at a campground. That night none of outlets worked. That night I tested the gfi and nothing. The next morning gfi was blinking. Pressed it Now i have power to 110/120 outlets. Park denied there was a problem. No power to my outlets hasn’t happened since. Just makes me wonder if I do have a problem
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Old 01-25-2022, 12:30 PM   #8
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Thank you everyone for your responses. I need to do a little more research. The outlets that are tripping the circuit breaker are probably chained/wired together. The kitchen and over the cab bunk outlet. And the outlet under the dinette and bedroom are wired together. If I run a second appliance the breaker trips. The bathroom outlet isnít giving me a problem and yes itís gfci.

I spent 1 night at a campground. That night none of outlets worked. That night I tested the gfi and nothing. The next morning gfi was blinking. Pressed it Now i have power to 110/120 outlets. Park denied there was a problem. No power to my outlets hasnít happened since. Just makes me wonder if I do have a problem
Just a thought. GFI's can fail, get weak over time and just not work well. Cheap fix ... replace the GFI with a brand new one.
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Old 01-25-2022, 06:48 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Rush2 View Post
Thank you everyone for your responses. I need to do a little more research. The outlets that are tripping the circuit breaker are probably chained/wired together. The kitchen and over the cab bunk outlet. And the outlet under the dinette and bedroom are wired together. If I run a second appliance the breaker trips. The bathroom outlet isn’t giving me a problem and yes it’s gfci.

I spent 1 night at a campground. That night none of outlets worked. That night I tested the gfi and nothing. The next morning gfi was blinking. Pressed it Now i have power to 110/120 outlets. Park denied there was a problem. No power to my outlets hasn’t happened since. Just makes me wonder if I do have a problem
Sounds like the shore power went out completely and you didn't know it.

*********************

Replacing RV receptacles with standard ones is not easy if possible at all in many locations in the RV. The receptacles used in RV's are self contained and do not need typical electrical boxes like are installed in the walls of your house. These receptacles are quite thin. The Romex™ wire has a couple of inches of the jacket removed leaving the bare ground and the two insulated conductors showing. These wires are "punched down" into V shaped contacts that have a notch at the bottom to retain the wire. The punching down shears the insulation off and a connection is made. The plastic back cap is snapped on and its ready to use. The Romex™ runs the length of the receptacle and flat to the wall. Its not much thicker than the prongs are long on your plugs.

Regular household receptacles require boxes (its a fire containment thing required by the National Electric Code) and the size is dictated by the number of wires in the box. This means a rather thick box that won't fit in an RV wall.

Someone just needs to come along and engineer a better RV receptacle that has self locking screw down type contacts, but is thin and self contained like the current ones.

I have a space heater and have been running it at the 800 watt setting to keep from overloading the receptacle and connections. Just today I finished up the installation of a box and GFCI receptacle (it is within 6 ft of the sink, code requirement) installed in the end of the dinette. The existing circuit runs into it and out again (but NOT thru the GFCI circuit) so the rest of the circuit is as previous but this is heavy duty, first in the circuit right next to the power panel, and won't burn up at 1400 watt draw.

Charles
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Old 01-25-2022, 10:39 PM   #10
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The Press together fast install type receptacles used in RVs many times can pop the back off and allow the wires/ terminals to push out the back and short together (had it happen on one of mine). Maybe repairable, or may require receptacle replacement is plastic broke? Otherwise mice/ rodent damage can also cause?
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Old 01-27-2022, 10:59 AM   #11
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Thank you everyone for your responses. I need to do a little more research. The outlets that are tripping the circuit breaker are probably chained/wired together. The kitchen and over the cab bunk outlet. And the outlet under the dinette and bedroom are wired together. If I run a second appliance the breaker trips. The bathroom outlet isn’t giving me a problem and yes it’s gfci.

I spent 1 night at a campground. That night none of outlets worked. That night I tested the gfi and nothing. The next morning gfi was blinking. Pressed it Now i have power to 110/120 outlets. Park denied there was a problem. No power to my outlets hasn’t happened since. Just makes me wonder if I do have a problem
Even though they deny it, the park could have had a power outage. I'm kinda leaning another way though.

It's possible there's a loose connection someplace. At the pedestal (would be the park's responsibility), in your shore cable connections, at your transfer switch (if there is one), or at the breaker panel inside the RV.

When the outlets are working but then trip,, what appliances are plugged into them? Is it the single 15/20 amp breaker feeding that circuit that trips?

Depending on amp draw of the item/appliance, you should definitely be able to plug in more than one into the circuit. As mentioned, an electric heater and something else that pulls a bunch will trip the breaker.
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Old 01-27-2022, 11:16 AM   #12
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Lots of good advice posted above.

Tripping circuit breakers are not related to the number of outlets in use. Tripping breakers are overloaded. What appliances you plug in, is what matters. Each appliance has a watt rating on a label.

Add up the watts for each device you plug in. A 15 amp circuit breaker can support less than 1800 watts. A 20 amp circuit breaker can support less than 2400 watts.

Some outlets may be connected to one breaker. Others may be connected to other breakers. To use two heaters, plug one into one circuit and the other into a different circuit.

My travel trailer has only one circuit for all 120 volt outlets. I can only use one heater at a time. My microwave is on a circuit of its own.

Note: GFI will only test trip and reset if there is 120 volts present to the outlet. No power, no action. RV circuit breaker was tripped or shore power outlet was tripped when GFI was not working.
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Old 01-27-2022, 11:30 AM   #13
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Lots of good advice posted above.

Tripping circuit breakers are not related to the number of outlets in use. Tripping breakers are overloaded. What appliances you plug in, is what matters. Each appliance has a watt rating on a label.

Add up the watts for each device you plug in. A 15 amp circuit breaker can support less than 1800 watts. A 20 amp circuit breaker can support less than 2400 watts.

Some outlets may be connected to one breaker. Others may be connected to other breakers. To use two heaters, plug one into one circuit and the other into a different circuit.

My travel trailer has only one circuit for all 120 volt outlets. I can only use one heater at a time. My microwave is on a circuit of its own.

Note: GFI will only test trip and reset if there is 120 volts present to the outlet. No power, no action. RV circuit breaker was tripped or shore power outlet was tripped when GFI was not working.
Fine with a 50 amp RV. On a 30, two heaters, even on different circuits inside an RV, would probably need to be run on their lower settings. Trying to run both at 1500 watts along with other things such as converter, water heater element?, TV, etc,, would be cutting it close to the main 30 amp breaker's capacity.

As you said, a person needs to make note of the wattage each appliance or items he or she intends to use and try not to exceed the capacity of the circuit.
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Old 01-28-2022, 12:17 AM   #14
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I have a 2020 Gulf Stream cl c conquest that keeps blowing circuit breakers. I have 3 110v outlets, 2 are wired together, I can only use 1 out of 4 plugs. Should I have an electrician look at the wiring or are all class c wired so the 110 outlets donít get used?
WHAT is plugged in at the time breaker trips? Tripping under low current can often be a loose wire at the breaker itself
MOST COMMON power loss/ intermittent is going to be broken/ damaged wire/ damaged plug/ damaged/ weak receptacle at the SHORELINE PLUG. A LOOSE receptacle should immediately be disconnected and alternate used; it can MELT your PLUG or Dogbone.
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