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Old 01-25-2022, 10:54 AM   #1
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2006 Itasca Spirit

The 10' slide won't move in the front, the rear works fine and moves in and out with the crank handle. In the front the crank engages and feels exactly like it should be moving something, but nothing moves. The electric moves only the rear. I get an error code of 6 flashes. It means (I think) that the rear actuator is not working, and I have no idea what that is. I could really use some help here. Thank you, Jimmy
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Old 01-25-2022, 04:46 PM   #2
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Jimmy- I have a 2007 Outlook 31C and I "think" your slideout mechanism is the same as mine; i.e., a Kwikee 2-arm electric slideout "Digisync" system. It sounds as if you may have a broken "plastic" acme-threaded nut inside the ram…..other wise I believe the slide would move when you manually crank it. Hope I am wrong. I have read that some of the parts (especially the controller) are very difficult/impossible to find or just not available any longer. That drives me to lube mine (actually almost drown it in lube) with silicone slide mechanism spray at least twice a year with my fingers crossed that it is making a difference ………. it sure runs "more free" (and faster) after the lube. (In a thousand words or less) this system consists of two rams, each of which has a square steel tube within a square steel tube. The inner tube moves the slide in or out via a long acme-threaded lead screw which has a "traveling" acme-threaded "plastic" nut attached to the inner tube with two pins. There are some teflon-type pucks at the end of the outer square tube for the inner tube to ride on. The rams are kept in sync (to prevent binding) by controlling the two motors electronically/digitally with hall effect transducers ….. the document below covers that, BTW.

I followed a thread a long time ago where a forum member repaired his. He did things well above my pay grade but did a great job of sharing his expertise. I'm 90 and still do almost all of my own "wrenching" (if it ain't on the roof) but I am in awe of this guy …… he is amazing. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/kwi...ge-353356.html

There is also a video where a young fellow replaces that acme follower nut right on the rig…. whilst working under the rig using the hyd levelers with no jack stands in sight…yikes. Different mounting geometry on his Class C but worth viewing, for sure.


I'll attach a document to download. I got it from WBGO a few years back and it covers the Kwikee Slideout. (It mostly covers adjustment, but it may give some insight as to mounting, etc.)

I hope all of this "stuff" is of some help to get you started at least and I hope someone more expert than I responds soon. Please keep the forum advised of your progress …… we are all still learnin'. Best of luck on the fix.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Slideout - Electric 2-Arm Kwikee DIGISYNC repair.pdf (100.3 KB, 13 views)
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Old 01-25-2022, 06:23 PM   #3
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For you with slide outs and love them, I am happy for you. I hope you never have trouble with them.

As for me, I love our motorhome HERE without such features.
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Old 02-04-2022, 04:38 PM   #4
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New Problem

I want to thank those who helped me so far. The video was a big help. Mine is basically the same but somewhat different than the one in the video. There is the steel tube but mine has a white nylon? nut that fits tight into the tube. The Acme screw turns inside that nut. The problem is that I can't separate the motor from the Acme screw. There is an aluminum block with a hole through it encasing where the pin is supposed to be located. I can't see any way to get the motor off the screw and I sure could use some help.
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Old 03-04-2022, 03:11 PM   #5
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Moving Forward

Hello All:
With your help I now have the slide moving in and out. The problem I have now is that the rear and front are 1.5 inches different in extension when out. Does anyone know how to adjust the slide movement?
Thank you,
Jimmy
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