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04-09-2023, 03:04 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Vermont
Posts: 402
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I did two things in a hot part of a trip. Overnight I ran the AC down as cold as they would go. We’d wake up to 55 degrees. I also added the silver bubble wrap to any window I could. And then I never ever let the ACs turn off as they would never catch back up. This worked with two 15 k AC on a 37 footer.
__________________
Travis
2021 Coachmen Mirada 35es
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06-19-2023, 06:35 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 22
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UPDATE: Replaced the 13.5k unit with a 15k Coleman Mach. Confirmed that operated with the thermostat and the current ductwork. Relocated the 13.5k to the vent cutout above the rear bedroom. This is already preducted since the evening can come with two 13.5k units. I used the diverter panel that came with the 15k. Panel has controls built in, just needed electricity. Found the the roof panels are bonded inside the ceiling and couldn’t be removed easily. I ended up using wire moulding to hide with wiring. I wish I could have hidden the wiring, but function over fashion I guess. Got the wiring finished yesterday and let it run in 80 heat in the sun for an hour. Forty seven degrees out of the vent. The bedroom felt like a meat locker. Hopefully this and the larger main unit will manage the heat on our next trip!
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06-20-2023, 07:09 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Florida
Posts: 147
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Nice work. Since you were up there anyway....did you install A/C Soft-Starts in each unit? That will smooth out the sudden start-up current draw when one or both ACs are running.
__________________
2019 Coachmen Freelander 32DS/E450 V10
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2023 Entegra Ethos 20A
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06-20-2023, 09:56 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 22
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Nope. Didn’t see the need since I never had an issue previously. I can run either unit at my house off of a regular outlet in my shop.
I do have one more question. Does anyone think I need to install a GFCI for the second unit? I has its own dedicated plug. Or should I just rely on the circuit breaker on the camp electrical post?
Thanks!
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06-20-2023, 06:25 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlV
Nope. Didn’t see the need since I never had an issue previously. I can run either unit at my house off of a regular outlet in my shop.
I do have one more question. Does anyone think I need to install a GFCI for the second unit? I has its own dedicated plug. Or should I just rely on the circuit breaker on the camp electrical post?
Thanks!
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Nope on the GFCI,, you're probably plugging into one at the pedestal anyway. Even if not, a regular 15/20 amp breaker covers it.
The new A/C isn't mounted in the bathroom, just above the steamy shower stall, is it?
__________________
03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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06-20-2023, 06:32 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlV
Nope. Didn’t see the need since I never had an issue previously. I can run either unit at my house off of a regular outlet in my shop.
I do have one more question. Does anyone think I need to install a GFCI for the second unit? I has its own dedicated plug. Or should I just rely on the circuit breaker on the camp electrical post?
Thanks!
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GFCIs are for ground faults. You would need to be touching the unit and a ground source.
They are not overload protection, that a circuit breakers job.
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06-20-2023, 10:09 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 605
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Carl- This has been done successfully by quite a few folks. I found some reading matter by using the search box on this forum.......might be worth your time.
https://www.google.com/search?q=add+...=irv2.com#ip=1
If I had kept my Class C I would have done what you are suggesting. To keep it simple, I was contemplating using a (ceiling) "local control" unit and skipping the second T-Stat.
Most of the folks who did the mod ran a separate romex from the 2nd unit to a J-box and then a separate power cord to the pedestal. Then they planned to use a 50amp site and plug in both power cords......using the dogbone for the main power to the coach and the 20 amp pedestal outlet for their 2nd AC. All that wouldn't work so well if you like boondocking of course.
I was planning on using an indoor raceway for the 2nd unit's power .... one of the plastic ones with the snap cover.............then down a closet to a J-box. Seems like that would be pretty unobtrusive as it would be "whiteish" on the white ceiling.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/covered%...conduit?NCNI-5
Good luck with the mod and good times and safe travels to ya - - - -
BTW- If you proceed with the project, please document it (lotsa pictures too) and post back. This subject comes up pretty often and a some documented info would help many RVers who consider this kind of project a daunting task but they are tired of "roasting" too.
__________________
Ed Sievers Denver, CO
Sold:2007 WBGO 31C Now:2020 Jayco 31UL
"Be the person you needed when you were younger"
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06-20-2023, 10:33 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 605
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Ooooops. I failed to read all the earlier posts. My bad.
Congrats on the good work.
__________________
Ed Sievers Denver, CO
Sold:2007 WBGO 31C Now:2020 Jayco 31UL
"Be the person you needed when you were younger"
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06-21-2023, 06:30 AM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youracman
Ooooops. I failed to read all the earlier posts. My bad.
Congrats on the good work.
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Thanks! Appreciate the feedback!
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06-21-2023, 06:33 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
GFCIs are for ground faults. You would need to be touching the unit and a ground source.
They are not overload protection, that a circuit breakers job.
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Thank you! I wanted to confirm that the circuit breaker on the pole would do the job. We’re off to New Orleans at the end of the month. Want to make sure we stay cool.
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07-15-2023, 07:15 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 22
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Just got home from our trip to New Orleans. First stop was Chattanooga TN for two nights. Got up the first morning and my wife said her drink on the nightstand was still cold. When we had a separate 20amp hookup available, there was no issue with temperature. Even when we didn’t, the new 15k btu unit performed fine. Now I’m considering hooking the rear unit into the ductwork (it’s already there in the cutout) and installing a separate thermostat for the bedroom. This would eliminate the manual control and would also lower the noise level.
Thanks to all that offered advice and opinions!
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07-27-2023, 07:01 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlV
I have a 2019 Thor Four Winds 31E. Last summer, coming back from the west coast we stopped overnight in OK. The first week of July. It was HOT. The AC unit was a joke. It barely kept the camper at 80. It has worked fine since in less extreme temperatures. I am pondering replacing it with a 15k BTU unit. (Currently is 13.5k original, unsure of brand). Do I add another 13.5k unit in the bedroom? This would be wired to run off of shore power by a 15amp circuit and not connected to the 30amp shore power. Or I could install the old 13.5k unit in the bedroom and a brand new 15k in the kitchen.
Just looking for advice from people that have added a second unit to their rigs.
Thanks in advance!
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Start with a 15K where the 13.5K is now and see how it works, if still not enough than put the 13.5K in the bedroom area, 2 AC's on 30 amp won't leave enough juice for other stuff.
__________________
2021 Gulf Stream BT Cruiser 5240 on a E350 Super Duty, Godzilla V-8
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08-04-2023, 09:17 AM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlV
UPDATE: Replaced the 13.5k unit with a 15k Coleman Mach. Confirmed that operated with the thermostat and the current ductwork. Relocated the 13.5k to the vent cutout above the rear bedroom. This is already preducted since the evening can come with two 13.5k units. I used the diverter panel that came with the 15k. Panel has controls built in, just needed electricity. Found the the roof panels are bonded inside the ceiling and couldn’t be removed easily. I ended up using wire moulding to hide with wiring. I wish I could have hidden the wiring, but function over fashion I guess. Got the wiring finished yesterday and let it run in 80 heat in the sun for an hour. Forty seven degrees out of the vent. The bedroom felt like a meat locker. Hopefully this and the larger main unit will manage the heat on our next trip!
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That looks really good! I've got a 32' Class C with a single unit. Adding the 2nd unit in the bedroom is what I'm wanting to do as well. Hopefully I can get that added before our next summer trip to Florida.
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